So my problems a little different
#1
So my problems a little different
Welcome to the forum
"hard to shift problem"???
You mean the column shifter is hard to move?
Google: ford column shifter loose
The shift tube inside the column can break or its bushings get worn out, as well
There is a Shift Lock on the column shifter, that prevents shifting out of Park unless foot is on the Brake, the lock solenoid or the brake pedal sensor can cause issues with this system
"hard to shift problem"???
You mean the column shifter is hard to move?
Google: ford column shifter loose
The shift tube inside the column can break or its bushings get worn out, as well
There is a Shift Lock on the column shifter, that prevents shifting out of Park unless foot is on the Brake, the lock solenoid or the brake pedal sensor can cause issues with this system
so my problem is a little different
2001 ford ranger xlt 4.0 V6 manual
Start the truck in park and it runs fine. Put truck in gear and start to accelerate and when truck gets over 2000rpm it will not drop back down. Go to shift and engage clutch still no drop in rpm (sometimes jump 500-1000rpm) move gear into neutral and truck will keep at 2000rpm or more(even if below 2000rpm I shift to neutral and truck will automatically increase rpm till reaches 2000 then pins. (No check engine light or codes)
1.checked acceleration cable and it’s snag free no impingement s
2. Checked cruise control cable and it’s snag free no impingement (disconnect cruise cable and drove around to see if possible leak in vac to cruise allowing plate to hold open )
3. Cleaned throttle body and plate with wire brush and throttle body cleaner(looks brand new now)
4.checked throttle plate spring and still tight (plate opens and closes without impingement
5. Replaced air filter
6. Checked all hoses for vacuum leak. No visible leaks.(unplugged IAC when idle truck stalled out leading me to think also no big leaks in vac system
7. Cleaned mass airflow sensor with mass airflow cleaner
8. Replaced Idle Air Control Valve
9. Replaced Throttle Position sensor
10. Replaced PCV valve and checked elbows for cracks
11.added sea foam to engine
12. Computer dusted cleaned wire plugins to all intake sensors
13. Reset ecu ( disconnected neg battery connection, left positive connection still on battery. Ran jumper cable from disconnected neg connection to the positive connection still on battery. Let sit for 30 mins to drain power to grounds, put key in car waited 30 seconds. Started let sit 10 mins to relearn idle then drove for 15 mins cycling through all gears
Still pinning at 2000rpm in neutral and during shifting of gears( rpm will stay at whatever it’s at during gear shift leading to rough shift and rpm to drop when in gear and take foot off clutch.
#2
So my problems a little different
2001 ford ranger xlt 4.0 V6 manual
Start the truck in park and it runs fine. Put truck in gear and start to accelerate and when truck gets over 2000rpm it will not drop back down. Go to shift and engage clutch still no drop in rpm (sometimes jump 500-1000rpm) move gear into neutral and truck will keep at 2000rpm or more(even if below 2000rpm I shift to neutral and truck will automatically increase rpm till reaches 2000 then pins. (No check engine light or codes)
1.checked acceleration cable and it’s snag free no impingement s
2. Checked cruise control cable and it’s snag free no impingement (disconnect cruise cable and drove around to see if possible leak in vac to cruise allowing plate to hold open )
3. Cleaned throttle body and plate with wire brush and throttle body cleaner(looks brand new now)
4.checked throttle plate spring and still tight (plate opens and closes without impingement
5. Replaced air filter
6. Checked all hoses for vacuum leak. No visible leaks.(unplugged IAC when idle truck stalled out leading me to think also no big leaks in vac system
7. Cleaned mass airflow sensor with mass airflow cleaner
8. Replaced Idle Air Control Valve
9. Replaced Throttle Position sensor
10. Replaced PCV valve and checked elbows for cracks
11.added sea foam to engine
12. Computer dusted cleaned wire plugins to all intake sensors
13. Reset ecu ( disconnected neg battery connection, left positive connection still on battery. Ran jumper cable from disconnected neg connection to the positive connection still on battery. Let sit for 30 mins to drain power to grounds, put key in car waited 30 seconds. Started let sit 10 mins to relearn idle then drove for 15 mins cycling through all gears
Still pinning at 2000rpm in neutral and during shifting of gears( rpm will stay at whatever it’s at during gear shift leading to rough shift and rpm to drop when in gear and take foot off clutch.
Start the truck in park and it runs fine. Put truck in gear and start to accelerate and when truck gets over 2000rpm it will not drop back down. Go to shift and engage clutch still no drop in rpm (sometimes jump 500-1000rpm) move gear into neutral and truck will keep at 2000rpm or more(even if below 2000rpm I shift to neutral and truck will automatically increase rpm till reaches 2000 then pins. (No check engine light or codes)
1.checked acceleration cable and it’s snag free no impingement s
2. Checked cruise control cable and it’s snag free no impingement (disconnect cruise cable and drove around to see if possible leak in vac to cruise allowing plate to hold open )
3. Cleaned throttle body and plate with wire brush and throttle body cleaner(looks brand new now)
4.checked throttle plate spring and still tight (plate opens and closes without impingement
5. Replaced air filter
6. Checked all hoses for vacuum leak. No visible leaks.(unplugged IAC when idle truck stalled out leading me to think also no big leaks in vac system
7. Cleaned mass airflow sensor with mass airflow cleaner
8. Replaced Idle Air Control Valve
9. Replaced Throttle Position sensor
10. Replaced PCV valve and checked elbows for cracks
11.added sea foam to engine
12. Computer dusted cleaned wire plugins to all intake sensors
13. Reset ecu ( disconnected neg battery connection, left positive connection still on battery. Ran jumper cable from disconnected neg connection to the positive connection still on battery. Let sit for 30 mins to drain power to grounds, put key in car waited 30 seconds. Started let sit 10 mins to relearn idle then drove for 15 mins cycling through all gears
Still pinning at 2000rpm in neutral and during shifting of gears( rpm will stay at whatever it’s at during gear shift leading to rough shift and rpm to drop when in gear and take foot off clutch.
#3
RF Veteran
iTrader: (1)
Just to confirm, its a manual transmission so there is no "Park"
Does your speedometer work?
Emissions require that a manual trans engine, while in motion, remains above 1,500rpms, when speedometer drops under 5MPH then RPMs can drop down to idle levels, 750-800
RPMs should stay the same when shifting, another emissions thing, but if you leave the clutch pedal down 7 or 8 seconds RPMs should drop a little, but not down to idle levels until speedometer is under 5MPH
2,000rpms sounds high, I would call a Ford Dealer and have them look up your VIN to see if there is a software update for the computer, there were issues in the early 2000's with Ford computers holding RPMs too high in manual trans vehicles, a software glitch, you have to pay for the update if there is one, its well out of warranty
I assume the CEL(check engine light) works, comes on with key on and then goes off after engine starts?
Just checking, I know you said no CEL, but didn't say that it worked, lol
Start the truck in park and it runs fine
Emissions require that a manual trans engine, while in motion, remains above 1,500rpms, when speedometer drops under 5MPH then RPMs can drop down to idle levels, 750-800
RPMs should stay the same when shifting, another emissions thing, but if you leave the clutch pedal down 7 or 8 seconds RPMs should drop a little, but not down to idle levels until speedometer is under 5MPH
2,000rpms sounds high, I would call a Ford Dealer and have them look up your VIN to see if there is a software update for the computer, there were issues in the early 2000's with Ford computers holding RPMs too high in manual trans vehicles, a software glitch, you have to pay for the update if there is one, its well out of warranty
I assume the CEL(check engine light) works, comes on with key on and then goes off after engine starts?
Just checking, I know you said no CEL, but didn't say that it worked, lol
#4
Just to confirm, its a manual transmission so there is no "Park"
Does your speedometer work?
Emissions require that a manual trans engine, while in motion, remains above 1,500rpms, when speedometer drops under 5MPH then RPMs can drop down to idle levels, 750-800
RPMs should stay the same when shifting, another emissions thing, but if you leave the clutch pedal down 7 or 8 seconds RPMs should drop a little, but not down to idle levels until speedometer is under 5MPH
2,000rpms sounds high, I would call a Ford Dealer and have them look up your VIN to see if there is a software update for the computer, there were issues in the early 2000's with Ford computers holding RPMs too high in manual trans vehicles, a software glitch, you have to pay for the update if there is one, its well out of warranty
I assume the CEL(check engine light) works, comes on with key on and then goes off after engine starts?
Just checking, I know you said no CEL, but didn't say that it worked, lol
Does your speedometer work?
Emissions require that a manual trans engine, while in motion, remains above 1,500rpms, when speedometer drops under 5MPH then RPMs can drop down to idle levels, 750-800
RPMs should stay the same when shifting, another emissions thing, but if you leave the clutch pedal down 7 or 8 seconds RPMs should drop a little, but not down to idle levels until speedometer is under 5MPH
2,000rpms sounds high, I would call a Ford Dealer and have them look up your VIN to see if there is a software update for the computer, there were issues in the early 2000's with Ford computers holding RPMs too high in manual trans vehicles, a software glitch, you have to pay for the update if there is one, its well out of warranty
I assume the CEL(check engine light) works, comes on with key on and then goes off after engine starts?
Just checking, I know you said no CEL, but didn't say that it worked, lol
#5
Just to confirm, its a manual transmission so there is no "Park"
Does your speedometer work?
Emissions require that a manual trans engine, while in motion, remains above 1,500rpms, when speedometer drops under 5MPH then RPMs can drop down to idle levels, 750-800
RPMs should stay the same when shifting, another emissions thing, but if you leave the clutch pedal down 7 or 8 seconds RPMs should drop a little, but not down to idle levels until speedometer is under 5MPH
2,000rpms sounds high, I would call a Ford Dealer and have them look up your VIN to see if there is a software update for the computer, there were issues in the early 2000's with Ford computers holding RPMs too high in manual trans vehicles, a software glitch, you have to pay for the update if there is one, its well out of warranty
I assume the CEL(check engine light) works, comes on with key on and then goes off after engine starts?
Just checking, I know you said no CEL, but didn't say that it worked, lol
Does your speedometer work?
Emissions require that a manual trans engine, while in motion, remains above 1,500rpms, when speedometer drops under 5MPH then RPMs can drop down to idle levels, 750-800
RPMs should stay the same when shifting, another emissions thing, but if you leave the clutch pedal down 7 or 8 seconds RPMs should drop a little, but not down to idle levels until speedometer is under 5MPH
2,000rpms sounds high, I would call a Ford Dealer and have them look up your VIN to see if there is a software update for the computer, there were issues in the early 2000's with Ford computers holding RPMs too high in manual trans vehicles, a software glitch, you have to pay for the update if there is one, its well out of warranty
I assume the CEL(check engine light) works, comes on with key on and then goes off after engine starts?
Just checking, I know you said no CEL, but didn't say that it worked, lol
#6
Moderator
iTrader: (1)
I've fought similar issues with my truck, where the RPMs wouldn't drop when I pressed the clutch in, although it would eventually drop after about 5 seconds or so. Ultimately my issue ended up being a faulty TPS, but I see you have already replaced that along with the IAC. I would not rule those two out, I once put a new Duralast IAC on my truck and it caused my truck to rev up in between shifts, and it only stopped when I put a Motorcraft IAC on the truck. I don't know what it is about aftermarket parts on these trucks but they just don't work well.
There may be another issue at hand that I'm not seeing, however you've checked the basics. From my experience, I would re-evaluate the IAC and TPS, as they're usually the most likely culprits for weird idle issues like this.
There may be another issue at hand that I'm not seeing, however you've checked the basics. From my experience, I would re-evaluate the IAC and TPS, as they're usually the most likely culprits for weird idle issues like this.
Last edited by Fordzilla80; 08-16-2020 at 12:43 PM.
#7
RF Veteran
iTrader: (1)
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