So a few weeks ago my A/C started taking a bit longer to start blowing cold. Like when I get in my truck and start the A/C it blows but it takes about 5 to 10 min. driving time and then BAM! Super cold air. I thought it was low on freon so I checked my pressure and it was a bit low so I added a 12oz can. Still no luck.... still takes 5 to 10 min to blow cold. I mean its not like it starts getting colder it just blows room temp and then all of a sudden it goes cold! I think it might be my compressor not kicking in. But what would cause that delay? Any help would be appreciated.

 

Exact same thing on my 2003 2.3, haven't really dug into it too deep but I checked my clutch with a meter and it has 12v when it is supposed too.

 

So do you guys just not use AC at all or what?

 

?

 

First thing to check would be fuses relays etc then see if the compressor is kicking on and off.

 

Bringing this back from the dead. This is my first post. Hello So, A/C problems are the hardest to search for yet one of the most common problems on any car forum, since the term "a/c" doesnt work as a search term and no one writes out 'air conditioner' problem in the title...

I have the same exact problem the OP describes above. My A/C blows ice cold, to the point that it is painfully cold. However, about 2 months ago, I noticed I'd have to drive half way to the highway before my A/C kicked on. For the first few weeks, it seemed it would kick on at the exact same time and spot every day, once i had driven about 4-5 miles from my house, roughly 10 minutes driving on my way to work.

For the past two weeks, the A/C kicks on almost 3/4ths of the way from my house to work. It seems to kick on at exactly the same spot/time on the highway every day. So now it takes about 20 minutes to kick on, as I'm passing the same exit every day, like its super accurate as to when it turns on finally, and blows ICE COLD until i turn off the truck, then i have to wait again after i start her back up.

What I'm wondering is, what could be causing this delay for the compressor to start? I should add that around the same time I started having this issue, my truck threw a p2004 code, which i'm going to be diagnosing soon, but it doesnt seem the p2004 code (vacuum leak) should cause a delay in the A/C compressor kicking on. Thoughts?

 

When you tune the ac on it should kick on right away. Pop the hood and watch the compressor. If it is not coming on sounds like you have a bad cycling switch. You will need to verify you have the correct pressure with the system operating. So you know your not over or undercharged.

 

I just started having the same problem. I also checked my freon, no problem there. On mine the clutch in simply not engaging and the strange thing is that when it finally does engage, the pressure readings are have been constant for several minutes, so it is not pressure related. I suspect it is the pressure switch that is attached to the dryer near the firewall because when I disconnect the wires going to that switch and short them with a piece of wire, the compressor comes on and goes off when I remove the piece of wire.
Anyone else experienced this problem?

 

The switch may have gone bad then. they're easy to replace, however you open the system when you take the old pressure switch out, so you might want to have a shop do it.

 

There is a schrader valve inside of the switch so the system is closed when you remove it.

 

I really found this thread motivating, so I tried shorting the switch above the suction accumulator. This didn't make the clutch engage so I also shorted the switch on the overpressure knockout switch, this didn't work (both switches are in series).

When I checked for voltage at the compressor it was still zero, and I changed the relay in the battery distribution box. This seems to have fixed it. Now the compressor is kicking in before I can pull my finger off the ****. I took apart the relay and you can see some heavy carbon buildup from turning on and off. The normally open portion wasn't conducting - I verified by bench testing the part before disassembling as well. Symptoms were EXACTLY like described above. I suggest that you guys pick up some half-iso relays and try this.

 

just started having this problem on my 2007 4.0

 

Mine was doing the same thing ,,Read your posts and went and pulled the relay ,,didnt change a thing ,My compressor clutch was clicking on for about 4 seconds then off for 20 or so seconds ,,So I pulled the plug wire to the low pressure valve shorted it across and the clutch on the A/C engaged and stayed ,So I hooked up the EZCHILL recharge kit and the gauge says low added on can of 134a ,,Recharge gauge was in the green ,I plugged the low pressure wire back in and it works great now ,,Start it up instance cool air more driving for 10 minutes before it starts to cool,,,Thanks for the help ,,,4door

 

I once had a clutch that was sticking open. If you tapped on it with a screw driver it would close. I sprayed electrical contact cleaner behind the clutch to clean the shaft and then lubed the shaft with oil. Its been fine ever since.

 

I had exact same problem. So did what you recommended and went to auto zone and purchased new relay switch for twelve bucks and problem solved! Thank you! UOTE=Jp7;1969464]I really found this thread motivating, so I tried shorting the switch above the suction accumulator. This didn't make the clutch engage so I also shorted the switch on the overpressure knockout switch, this didn't work (both switches are in series).

When I checked for voltage at the compressor it was still zero, and I changed the relay in the battery distribution box. This seems to have fixed it. Now the compressor is kicking in before I can pull my finger off the ****. I took apart the relay and you can see some heavy carbon buildup from turning on and off. The normally open portion wasn't conducting - I verified by bench testing the part before disassembling as well. Symptoms were EXACTLY like described above. I suggest that you guys pick up some half-iso relays and try this.

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