On my 2003 ranger, I've changed the power window switches on both doors, but it didn't fix my problem. My master power window switch works both windows OK, but the passenger side switch still does not won't work. I changed that switch but that didn't fix things either. Can someone guide me in the right direction to fix my window switch issue in my passenger door.

 

Key on engine off
Check battery voltage at the battery, 12.3v to 12.8v is acceptable

Then check voltage at passenger window switch, the light blue/black stripe wire, should be EXACTLY the same
If not then that's the problem, that wire is damaged some where

The same color wire is on the master switch, you can test it's voltage, these two wires are spliced together under the dash, the 12v wire at the master is OK because master works on passenger side window
So if passenger side voltage is low then that wire is damaged between the splice under the dash(no idea where that is) and the passenger side window switch

 

The wire is damaged in the passenger switch harness, I have to replace that harness wire at the switch. Thanks

 

I would just be the 12v blue/black wire that is damaged

The blue/black wire in drivers door is OK, so you could access the wire behind drivers side kick panel, splice into that wire and run new wire over to passenger side door and switch

 

Ok i will try that. Thanks

 

Hey guys - similar issue so I thought I'd tack onto this thread. Last winter (2019-2020) the passenger window would not respond to either to the master or passenger power window switches. If you actuated the open side of the switch ~20 times, it would lower the window and not go back up (jumpered it with tie wire to close, as it was -20oC outside!). Did this same operation (hit the switch ~20 times to open, jumper to close) before replacing the passenger switch a couple months ago - the replaced switch did nothing (actually, regardless how many times I actuate the switch, it doesn't seem to respond). I decided to finally invest in a multi-meter and tested the contacts on both the master and passenger power window switches - below are the results and the photos for context.Drivers - light blue/black appears to be hot (positive), black appears to be ground. Getting ~12 VDC from blue to all four corners, dropping to zero on each terminal when the switch is actuated in that direction (open and close)

Passenger - light blue/black appears to be hot (positive), white appears to be ground or perhaps return to master switch? Getting ~12 VDC from light blue/black to both yellow/red dropping to zero when actuating the switch to close the window only (for both wires). Getting zero voltage across light blue/black to light blue/pink (looks like beige in the photo, swear its pink tho). Not getting any voltage across any terminals with a lead on the pink terminal.


Driver Window Switch

Driver Window Switch Wiring Harness

Passenger Window Switch

Passenger Window Switch Wiring Harness

I have the Haynes repair manual, but it doesn't have this detail for wiring diagrams. There's 1000 different diagrams available via Google, but no idea which is actually applicable. I was going to go to a pick and pull to replace the master switch, but it appears to read fine. I'm thinking it's an issue with the wiring either to the passenger door or between the switch and the passenger window motor, but this is my first real foray into fixing wiring/electrical issues. As the motor would actuate fine in rare instances and jumper close fine, I suspect the power window motor is fine. Seems like the pink is the culprit.

Any thoughts on what the source of the issue would be and what steps to do next? Thanks in advance! :)

 

To follow up - I have checked the power to the passenger window motor and only get power in one direction (polarity); although it's hard to tell if the power is consistent holding to leads from the multimeter while actuating the switch.

I found some wiring diagrams which seem to correspond well to the 2005 model I have (same colour tags for wires); I was unable to find them online for free elsewhere. https://www.therangerstation.com/Mag...er_doors.shtml

Rechecking the master switch I am now convinced it is due to a short / corrosion in wire 314 TN/LB somewhere in the dash leading to the passenger window harness (as it reads fine on the master switch). Wire 333 YE/RD is short and visible from the switch to the window motor connection. Retesting I get the same results as above - wire 313 WH/YE, 334 RD/YE and 400 LB/BK all check out and behave as expected when actuating the switch. I have no idea where best to inspect the dash for likely wire issues to splice wire 314 TN/LB; failing that I presume I could swap it out with a manual assembly if push comes to shove.



Asked a mechanic who suggested replacing the regulator/motor - even if that does need replacing, it won't fix the power supply problem!

 

Power windows all work pretty much the same way

Each window switch has its own 12volt wire, key on 12v, the LB/BK(light blue/black) wire in your diagram
The GROUND for each switch comes from the MASTER switch, 2 ground wires, white/yellow and tan/light blue in your diagram

So you just need to test if passenger door has a 12volt wire(key on), if not then that's the problem
Then test if switch has a GROUND on each of the 2 wires, Master must be plugged in, if not then that's the problem

You don't need to move the switch to test this, the 12v and two grounds can just be tested, if all 3 wires test OK and window doesn't work then switch is bad or motor is
You can test the motor by unplugging it and use jumper wires from the WORKING 12v and ground you just tested to the 2 motor wires
12v/ground makes window go up, ground/12v makes window go down, so reversing polarity changes direction the motor turns, that's what the switch does, reverses polarity