Timing
#1
11-19-2018
Join Date: May 2018
Location: Kentucky
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Timing
I have rebuilt the motor in my 2.5l motor for my Ranger. I’ve got it all together and I’ve been kind of battling an idling issue. I was wondering if I have to change the timing since I’ve had it bored .30 over? I’ve changed spark plugs and wires already. It starts and runs but will rev high and smooth then drop lower and sputter and will go back up. Eventually it will spitter too much and kill the motor.
#2
11-19-2018
No, you shouldn't have to change timing for the overbore.
I would invest the $15-$40 in a Bluetooth OBD2 reader, assuming you have a Smartphone or tablet that can run APPS
You can then watch different sensors in Real Time to see what's changing to cause the rough running
I would get an extension cable with it, some OBD plugins are behind smaller openings
These Bluetooth readers can be used on ANY vehicle made or sold in North America after 1995, so not a Ford thing, if you plan on driving other vehicles in the future its a good tool to have
APPS are free or $5 depending on how much info you need.
No, can't recommend one, read reviews
If I had to GUESS on your problem I would say computer is getting poor info from ECT or MAF sensor
I would invest the $15-$40 in a Bluetooth OBD2 reader, assuming you have a Smartphone or tablet that can run APPS
You can then watch different sensors in Real Time to see what's changing to cause the rough running
I would get an extension cable with it, some OBD plugins are behind smaller openings
These Bluetooth readers can be used on ANY vehicle made or sold in North America after 1995, so not a Ford thing, if you plan on driving other vehicles in the future its a good tool to have
APPS are free or $5 depending on how much info you need.
No, can't recommend one, read reviews
If I had to GUESS on your problem I would say computer is getting poor info from ECT or MAF sensor
#3
11-30-2018
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Location: Elizabethtown
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My guess based on the fact you just rebuilt is theres a vac leak from disturbing a worn rubber/plastic hose somewhere during rebuild, this will cause your IAC to compensate for a vaccum leak somewhere by rasing idle and then letting it fall at idle. Inspect the following....
All hose connections to the underside of the intake manifold (it's a pain I know)
ensure pcv under intake manifold is properly inserted (these fall out easily and cause major vac leaks)
check all the colored plastic hoses around the back of the engine coming from the manifold (these become brittle with heat and time)
check hoses going to vacuum ball (inside the passenger side quarter panel, hoses lead in under the coolant tank)
Check intake manifold gaskets (not sure how long you've ran it but the head to IM fails due to heat easily.
if you get a hissing under the hood when driving it's the tubes going to the dpfe
All hose connections to the underside of the intake manifold (it's a pain I know)
ensure pcv under intake manifold is properly inserted (these fall out easily and cause major vac leaks)
check all the colored plastic hoses around the back of the engine coming from the manifold (these become brittle with heat and time)
check hoses going to vacuum ball (inside the passenger side quarter panel, hoses lead in under the coolant tank)
Check intake manifold gaskets (not sure how long you've ran it but the head to IM fails due to heat easily.
if you get a hissing under the hood when driving it's the tubes going to the dpfe
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