Hi. I have a 2003 mazda b2300 with 125,000 miles. I accelerated after stopping at a stop sign and all of a sudden complete loss of power. Engine idle is terrible like 500 rpm and the engine will die within 20 seconds. There is little to no throttle response. If i push the gas pedal all the way down it will eventually get power and rev up but only for a few seconds before dropping again. I can start it like normal, it will rev up like 2500 rpms like normal, and then after a few seconds it drops to around 500 rpm with very inconsistent/rough idle. The engine light came on after about a minute and gave one code p2195. A google search found that a few people had a plug fall out of their intake, causing a vacuum leak, and gave symptoms similar to mine. So I checked my plug (right behind the power steering pump) and it was fine. I tried checking for vacuum leaks and couldn't find anything with the carb cleaner check. I replaced the fuel filter and the vacuum hoses going to the IMRC because the hoses were starting to disintegrate.

It may be worth mentioning that I only have about 50 miles on my latest oil change, but I don't think that has anything to do with it.

So here I have some questions if anybody can give help/advice:
Right now I'm thinking I will take off the intake manifold and check it really good for cracks/leaks. If I do this is there any other maintenance I should do while I have the intake off? Do I need to probably replace the gaskets while I have it off? I will also replace the PCV valve and check that hose really good while I have the intake off. I think I should also clean the MAF sensor but not sure where exactly that is? I have very limited experience working on cars/engines but I would say I am very mechanically inclined (i'm a young farmer and I do all the maintenance and most repairs on our farm equipment,tractors, combines, etc.). I will also clean the throttle body. I've never even seen the inside of large engine before but there is a lot of gunk built up inside the throttle body, is that normal?

I'm also questioning if this could be a bad egr system. Is there a way I can test the egr valve? I'm not even sure where it is but I suspect it is probably attached to the back of the intake manifold near the firewall.

I pulled the spark plugs to check them out and I think I ruined the plug wires when I pulled them out. I'm going to replace the plugs and wires. Those suckers don't come out easy. Now when I ohm them I can't get a reading on any one of the wires using two different multi-meters. shouldn't I be able to ohm them to see if they are good? I can't believe I ruined all four just in the process of pulling them out. I yanked the first one pretty good but I was careful with the other three using some long-reach needle nose pliers. I also took off the coil and tried ohming through from each of the three studs where it plugs in to each of the connectors for the plug wires and I didn't get a reading. I thought I probably should but I can't find any info on testing the coil. Maybe my problem is a bad coil? But I didn't get an engine code for any misfires?

I really want to make the most of it while I have the intake manifold off so if you have any input of what I should do please advise those of you that know! Would also be helpful if there are any tutorials/advice on taking off the intake manifold. Looks like it should be fairly easy to do if I can get to all the bolts.

 

more than likely your catalytic converter is plugged up , loss of power , then stalls

 

Thanks I never considered that. I can probably check that just by seeing how much air flows out the tailpipe? I know a muffler guy that could permanently remove it for cheap as he did with another truck I had. I did take off the intake and couldn't find any obvious problems. The gasket that seemed to be in the worst shape is on the top/back of the intake manifold where the PCV hose connects. Disconnecting that little PCV manifold from the intake was the toughest part of getting the intake manifold out. There are two screws that are really hard to get to because of all the hoses. (It has three hoses there is 1for pcv line and 2 hoses for engine coolant apparently to cool the air running from the crank case into the intake). Does anyone know what the sensor is that is on the very top of the intake? It had a thick coat of sludge on it. I cleaned it up with starting fluid. Hopefully starting fluid didn't hurt it. I found and cleaned the MAF. It didn't appear very dirty. I'm going to replace all the intake gaskets and pcv valve, pcv hose, put it all back together, and hopefully my problem is gone. If not, I ordered a vacuum gauge and a fuel injection pressure gauge so I can find out if I have a vacuum leak or fuel problem. I'm going to try to check the fuel injectors while I have the intake off. Anybody know how to do that? I am also going to replace the coil pack, wires, and spark plugs. I found a small crack in the bottom of the coil pack. Don't know if that could be a problem or THE problem, but after 125,000 miles it may be good to replace the coil pack anyways. If this doesn't find/fix the problem then I guess I'll see about testing/replacing some sensors and/or the egr. After doing some google searching sounds like the egr is a real pain to get to. You have to drop the transmission! It's on the back of the engine right next to the firewall. Luckily my mazda is just a spare truck for running around the farm so it doesn't hurt for me to have it down for a while until I can get it all tuned up and running good again. I'm really hoping I don't have to mess with that egr. If it is the egr maybe a can of seafoam could loosen things up and get it working again? I've never used seafoam but just read some awesome reviews for it.

 

seafoam will clean out the EGR valve insides , just let the assembly soak in the seafoam for several days

it should also restore the EGR rubber diaphragm inside

 

has anyone considered checking the timing belt? may have jumped time.