2008's lower ride height, need to get to the bottom of this
#326
I believe so. I just order a set of them from TascaParts.com. Paid $79.20 for the pair + shipping and taxes. Exact part # F57Z5B328B. I'm in Canada and should have them in 10-7 busniess days. If you want to wait. I can let you know for sure when I get them if thier the right ones or not.
#327
I have an 08 FX4, and im wanting to preblock, but im not sure how to tell if I have a 31 or 28 spline axle. I want to make sure I get the right blocks and ubolts. I know it used to be the level II's had them, but in 08 there is no level II. My window sticker doesnt say anything about having the Torsen diff, so I kinda assume its a 28. My axle code is R7. Any help is appreicated.
#328
I have an 08 FX4, and im wanting to preblock, but im not sure how to tell if I have a 31 or 28 spline axle. I want to make sure I get the right blocks and ubolts. I know it used to be the level II's had them, but in 08 there is no level II. My window sticker doesnt say anything about having the Torsen diff, so I kinda assume its a 28. My axle code is R7. Any help is appreicated.
08-09 FX4 Off Road the 31spline+Torsen was an option. So you could have it or not.
Axle Code R7 is a L/S (limited slip) 8.8", 4:10 gears. There is no way to tell which axle it is by the axle code. The only way to tell without pulling the differential cover is to measure the tube diameters of the axle housing. The 28 spline tubes are 3.25" and a 31 spline tubes are 3.5".
Last edited by NightmareFX4; 04-16-2010 at 09:10 PM.
#329
#330
Belltech 6400 shackles for an extra 1 3/4" lift with your allready 1 1/4" stock blocks with spring bolt in bottom shackle hole.
or
Belltech 6400 shackles for an extra 3/4" lift with your allready 1 1/4" stock blocks with spring bolt in second from bottom shackle hole.
Belltech 6400 shackles are $40 to $60 a pair new if you search around a bit (cheaper than ubolts, nuts and blocks / unless their used of course).
You will gain more rear articulation with the Belltech 6400 shackles (over stock shackles with preblocks) .
The 2" or 2 1/2" Preblocks will give you lift as well.
But with your 1 1/4" stock blocks gone and replaced with 2 or 2 1/2" Preblocks. Lift would be:
2 1/2" preblocks for an extra 1 1/4" lift (1/2" less than Belltech 6400 shackles with spring bolt in bottom shackle hole).
or
2" preblocks for an extra 3/4" lift (same as Belltech 6400 shackles with spring bolt in second from bottom shackle hole).
There is more potential of axle rap to worry about with larger preblocks.
Last edited by NightmareFX4; 04-17-2010 at 12:45 AM.
#333
Everybody pays taxes, don't they? lol. Find a local dealer if you don't want to pay shipping. Like I did. Here's were I got mine locally in Canada for $70 taxes in (I did this because they are not that far from me / but you may be able to find a local guy for less, check your local speed shops):
Hinton Automotive - 129 Walgreen Road RR 3, Carp, ON
Other online examples:
Belltech Sport Trucks 6400 - Belltech Sport Trucks Rear Shackle Kits - Overview - SummitRacing.com for$53.95
Amazon.com: Belltech 6400 Shackle Kit: Automotive for$42.40
Auto Part Seek - Automotive : Belltech 6400 Shackle Kit at autopartseek.com for$42.40
Bell Tech - R.LOWERING KT GM1500-3500 6400 - StreetSideAuto for$52.08
And I could go on. Look around, Google is your friend (I didn't really look all that hard either / if ordered on line shipping and taxes is a given). Used I've seen for $35 to $50 (no taxes, just add shipping).
Last edited by NightmareFX4; 04-17-2010 at 10:58 AM.
#334
In the future I will be removing the Belltech 6400 shackles (and selling them) and going with AAL's (before the springs get old and sag). My springs are new now so the shackles arn't that bad when it comes to pinion angle. Shackles are just temporary (cheaper) until I go AAL's. Oh I am doing a 1"PA BL AND Prekey mod as well (have BL parts allready / Prekeys ordered allready) with 32" or 33" MTR's.
Last edited by NightmareFX4; 04-17-2010 at 12:32 PM.
#336
#337
I looked at them and didn't like the 3" gap in the frame or the gap guard look. And it's my daily driver so I just want enough lift for 32's or 33's (my 4:10 gears go well with either of these tire combos to).
Front: 1"BL's + Prekeys = 3" or more lift + tires
Rear: 1" BL's + 6400 Shackles = 2 3/4" lift + tires
Front: 1"BL's + Prekeys = 3" or more lift + tires
Rear: 1" BL's + 6400 Shackles = 2 3/4" lift + tires
#338
I went to the motorcraft parts webside and looked up some blocks for a pre 08 4x4 supercab. My main question is, when you look up blocks for an 08 supercab 4x4, it just shows one part number, but on the older years it shows seperate part numbers for right and left, anyone that has gotten the blocks know why that is? Im just curious.
Last edited by mj550; 04-25-2010 at 03:25 PM.
#341
#342
Can someone elaborate on exactly what is the purpose of using prekeys, Im having some confusion on the reason to get prekeys if it is not recommended to go any higher than 2 inches on a tbar crank. Is it strictly so you don't have to crank the bolt as much?
My 08 t bar bolts have plenty of threads left on them, so say i give them 4 to 5 turns and hopefully get a close to 2" lift, would this simply be the same as getting some pre 07 keys and giving the bolts only 2 to 3 turns maybe?
Or are you guys with the prekeys giving the bolt just as many turns as you would without the keys therefore getting maybe 2.5 to 3 inches of total lift in the front?
thanks for any help you can provide.
My 08 t bar bolts have plenty of threads left on them, so say i give them 4 to 5 turns and hopefully get a close to 2" lift, would this simply be the same as getting some pre 07 keys and giving the bolts only 2 to 3 turns maybe?
Or are you guys with the prekeys giving the bolt just as many turns as you would without the keys therefore getting maybe 2.5 to 3 inches of total lift in the front?
thanks for any help you can provide.
#343
When comparing ride heights between vehicles it is useful to have some measurements, but the question is what measurements? Here is my suggestion.
The distance from fender lip to the centre of the hub.
The distance from the hub centre to the ground.
The advantage of this is that the effects of suspension changes are separated from the effects of tire size changes.
If you change ride height by adjusting the torsion bar it will show only in the first measurement.
If you change ride height by changing tire diameter it will show only in the second measurement.
The distance from fender lip to the centre of the hub.
The distance from the hub centre to the ground.
The advantage of this is that the effects of suspension changes are separated from the effects of tire size changes.
If you change ride height by adjusting the torsion bar it will show only in the first measurement.
If you change ride height by changing tire diameter it will show only in the second measurement.
#344
On my unmodified 2011 SuperCab 4x4 XLT, with the 2710# front axle, i.e. the B torsion bar those measurements are :-
Front 19.5", 14.3";
Rear 20.0", 14.3".
Having recorded those measurements I can now detect any future sag.
#345
#346
The torsion Keys GUYS!!!!! All Ranger 4x4 suspension is the same if it is IFS. FORD redesigned the torsion keys to not have as much height to them. All of a sudden the warranty work went down and Ford stopped having so many complaints about ride height. Crappy deal with the rangers is when you do crank the Tbars they typically will allow the front end to be nose high after a day or two of driving getting the new settings to settle in. All new IFS vehicles are extremely limited to ride height change( New 2012 GM HD' trucks are PATHETIC, Any one who thinks its great should be slapped ). Manufactures DONT want you to be able to modify the suspension in anyway. Thats why they are always changing the over all designs of the front end.
AfterMarket torsion keys should solve the issue. Procomps stuff is trash for leveling kits, so is ReadyLift. Look into Tuff country if you do. They have not failed me yet and the price is good.
AfterMarket torsion keys should solve the issue. Procomps stuff is trash for leveling kits, so is ReadyLift. Look into Tuff country if you do. They have not failed me yet and the price is good.
#347
The torsion Keys GUYS!!!!! All Ranger 4x4 suspension is the same if it is IFS. FORD redesigned the torsion keys to not have as much height to them. All of a sudden the warranty work went down and Ford stopped having so many complaints about ride height. Crappy deal with the rangers is when you do crank the Tbars they typically will allow the front end to be nose high after a day or two of driving getting the new settings to settle in. All new IFS vehicles are extremely limited to ride height change( New 2012 GM HD' trucks are PATHETIC, Any one who thinks its great should be slapped ). Manufactures DONT want you to be able to modify the suspension in anyway. Thats why they are always changing the over all designs of the front end.
AfterMarket torsion keys should solve the issue. Procomps stuff is trash for leveling kits, so is ReadyLift. Look into Tuff country if you do. They have not failed me yet and the price is good.
AfterMarket torsion keys should solve the issue. Procomps stuff is trash for leveling kits, so is ReadyLift. Look into Tuff country if you do. They have not failed me yet and the price is good.
If you had taken the time to sift through this thread, you would know that the issue has been resolved..
Ford reindexed the torsion keys starting in 2008+ to lower the ride height. Many of us (08+ owners) have grabbed a set of torsion keys from a 98-07 Ranger to reclaim the height.
I used keys from a 2007 Ranger and with a mild crank, gained 2"..
There is much debate about aftermarket keys and the problems they can cause.. Some use them, and some wouldn't even think about it..
#348