2.3L & 2.5L I4 Tech General discussion of 2.3L and 2.5L I4 Ford Ranger engines.

01' 2.3L MAP Sensor Location

  #1  
Old 02-13-2019
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Icon5 01' 2.3L MAP Sensor Location

Where is the MAP Sensor located on a 01' 2.3l XL RWD. duratech? Thank you in advance.
 
  #2  
Old 02-14-2019
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Not sure you have a MAP sensor, intake manifold pressure(engine load) was calculated using MAF sensor, RPM and throttle position(TPS)

You can look on the top of the intake manifold, small black box with 3 wire connector, maybe 4 wire, held on by 1 bolt, sensor part sticks thru a hole in the intake
 

Last edited by RonD; 02-14-2019 at 10:28 AM.
  #3  
Old 02-14-2019
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Dang, well im looking for it because Im getting alot of pinging when accelerating on the freeway in 4th and 5th gear and the idle is rougher than normal. If i dont have a dpfe or a MAP sensor, what could the culprit be? Ive changed the EGR within the year and hunted down a P0171 code and replaced alot of vacuum lines and a PCV valve, also i cleaned and serviced the MAF sensor. Im not throwing any codes now but it doesnt sound right
 
  #4  
Old 02-14-2019
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DPFE sensor is different than MAP
DPFE measures exhaust pressure for the computers control of the EGR Valve

On the EGR tube will be 2 hoses, they run to the DPFE sensor

One is smaller that the other, and on the DPFE sensor one connection is smaller, so these two hose have an order or system won't work right

The DPFE sensor "tells" the computer how much exhaust is flowing into the intake
If both hoses show the same pressure then no exhaust is flowing
If the hose closer to the EGR valve has less pressure then exhaust gases are flowing into the intake, how much less pressure "tells" computer the amount of exhaust gases so it can vary the vacuum control on the EGR valve, to open or close it more.
EGR is an emissions system so heavily monitored by the computer, it would set a code instantly if there was a problem

The Ranger Duratec 2.3l is a higher compression engine so has a Knock sensor, part number: 1S7Z-12A699-BB
So you should never hear pinging/knocking
But advancing spark, i.e. knock sensor, can only compensate for most pinging/knocking

You may have some carbon build up in the cylinders, this does two things, it increases compression and holds heat in the cylinder
Run a can of seafoam in the gas tank and see if pinging is reduced a bit, if so run another can in the next tank

Running higher octane should reduces pinging in the short term, and Premium Gasoline often has Cleaners added so can help the seafoam in cleaning out some of the carbon

Changing the PCV valve was good, problem in PCV system can lead to pinging/knocking under load
 
  #5  
Old 02-14-2019
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From what ive learned, I dont have a DPFE sensor for my 2.3l. So any pinging I hear is not due to a bad sensor or malfunctioning part?
 
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Old 02-14-2019
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Well if it has an EGR Valve then it needs a sensor so computer knows how much exhaust is flowing into the intake, it can be part of the EGR valve itself, a position sensor
EGR Valve should only have a vacuum hose attached, if you see wires on it then EGR sensor is inside it.

DPFE sensors were preferred because they monitor actual flow, position sensors don't, i.e. valve is 1/4 open, valve is 1/2 open, ect........,so if EGR tube gets build up inside then flow is less and position sensor wouldn't tell computer that

But again it is monitored and an emissions system, so sets codes at the drop of a hat, lol.

Knock sensor maybe, but only thing I can think of that would cause issues here is if it was loose, so not detecting the pinging very well, if it was bad there would be a code

I think knock sensor is on the intake side of the block, its bolted to the block, single bolt thru the middle of it
Maybe near the PCV Valve location but up higher
 
  #7  
Old 02-16-2019
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Well, I just got a p0442 code. I recently replaced the fuel tanks gasket and lock ring after a smoke test indicated thats where the leak was from. since then my fuel gauge was stuck at 3/4 full until I tried the anri-slosh bypass then it was stuck at a half tank. so, I suspect my fuel pump is not working properly.

However could this p0442 code have something to do with the noise im hearing at 4th and 5th gear?

ThanksRonD
 
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Old 02-16-2019
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P0442 Evaporative Emission Control System Leak Detected (small leak)

No, wouldn't effect transmission

I would pull back the bed again and check the wiring and hoses, if fuel level issue started after gas tank work

Level indicator(float) in the gas tank and the fuel pump are separate devices, they share mounting but use different wiring

"Small leak" can be gas cap gasket or filler tube
 
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Old 03-01-2019
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Well since I posted I had a chance to drive the truck and see the problem for myself. It starts and runs wonderfully for about five minutes, then stalls, will start briefly and stall again sometimes backfiring, etc., then if you let it sit for about 20 minutes it will start right up and run again. There is no hesitation or anything but smooth running and good idle while it is functioning.
Now its and olf truck and has sat on the previous owners property for since May of 2018, and my wife ran it out of gas.
I don't have a fuel pressure tester but it seems to me that if it was a dirty fuel filter or a weak fuel pump, it would not be running well peroid, or it would get worse if you were trying to give it more gas. As I said, it runs nice as you please for five or ten minutes after you start it.
RonD suggested it could be the TFI module, and that's just the kind of thing I was looking for-- a known issue that is common and a Ford guy would know about. I attempted the OBD test, but either the test connector is too corroded to read, or the diagnostic computer is dead.
Of the tests listed on one of the many helpful links RonD provided, I would need a remote starter switch or a timing light to do, plus some require me to remove the part, and that involves loosening the distributor bolt to access the fastener I need to take off to remove the module. This also requires a special tool, or so it seems from a turorial on a slightly different year model of Ford Truck.
Thermal paste is required to replace the part, so I think it is highly likely that heat could have damaged the part over the course of the 32 years that thing has been around-- assuming that's the original part.
This is the push start version, the grey TFI module for vehicles without computer controlled dwell.
For me, it might be considerably difficult to get everything I need to replace the TFI module, so I want to be certain this is indeed the problem... any suggestions?
 
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Old 03-01-2019
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Originally Posted by throatgorge View Post
Well since I posted I had a chance to drive the truck and see the problem for myself. It starts and runs wonderfully for about five minutes, then stalls, will start briefly and stall again sometimes backfiring, etc., then if you let it sit for about 20 minutes it will start right up and run again. There is no hesitation or anything but smooth running and good idle while it is functioning.
Now its and olf truck and has sat on the previous owners property for since May of 2018, and my wife ran it out of gas.
I don't have a fuel pressure tester but it seems to me that if it was a dirty fuel filter or a weak fuel pump, it would not be running well peroid, or it would get worse if you were trying to give it more gas. As I said, it runs nice as you please for five or ten minutes after you start it.
RonD suggested it could be the TFI module, and that's just the kind of thing I was looking for-- a known issue that is common and a Ford guy would know about. I attempted the OBD test, but either the test connector is too corroded to read, or the diagnostic computer is dead.
Of the tests listed on one of the many helpful links RonD provided, I would need a remote starter switch or a timing light to do, plus some require me to remove the part, and that involves loosening the distributor bolt to access the fastener I need to take off to remove the module. This also requires a special tool, or so it seems from a turorial on a slightly different year model of Ford Truck.
Thermal paste is required to replace the part, so I think it is highly likely that heat could have damaged the part over the course of the 32 years that thing has been around-- assuming that's the original part.
This is the push start version, the grey TFI module for vehicles without computer controlled dwell.
For me, it might be considerably difficult to get everything I need to replace the TFI module, so I want to be certain this is indeed the problem... any suggestions?
Wrong thread?

Guessing 1987 or 1988 Ranger, "32 years it been around"?

When you start a fuel injected engine the computer looks at the Coolant temp, via ECT sensor
If its cold computer will run Choke Mode, and Open Loop
Choke mode is a high idle and a Rich fuel mix, same as Choke plate did in a carb
As coolant gets warmer idle will slowly drop, and fuel mix will get leaner, just like choke plate on carb did

Open loop is when O2 sensor(s) are under 600degF so can't work, O2 sensors are heated by built in electric heater and also heated by the exhaust, but still takes 3 to 8 minutes to get them above 600degF
In Open Loop the computer uses air/fuel mix tables in memory, from factory programming, based on RPM, MAP, throttle position and air temp sensor.

Closed Loop is what computer uses when O2 sensor(s) start working, computer can tell because the O2 sensor voltage will start to switch faster(O2 sensors MAKE their own voltage)

It reads like when computer is switching over to Closed Loop is when you are having a problem
This would point to an issue with upstream O2 sensor or the computer itself
It kind of an extreme reaction for a bad O2 sensor, but not for bad computer

If you can't get any info from it, i.e. read OBD codes then I would say its the computer

TFI would take longer to heat up so while it could be A problem I don't think its THE problem
 
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