I will try to keep this brief. I bought a 2002 Ford Ranger with a 2.3l and automatic on the 15th. Started having multiple issues with it on the 17th. Truck just rolled 200K, transmission was supposedly rebuilt 20k miles prior.

Issue 1:
Code 1537 for IMRC.
Replaced IMRC and vacuum lines (vacuum lines as a precaution). As soon as I started the truck the code came back as pending. When I shut the truck off and restart it, the check engine light comes back on.

Issue 2:
Engine bogging down intermittently.
I check the TPS and found using my scanner it had delayed readings (never coincidence with bogging issue). I went ahead and replaced the the TPS and performed an upper end decarbon and cleaned the throttle body. This did not help the intermittent bogging issue.

Issue 3:
Intermittent hard shifts, and overdrive will not engage when above 35 mph. At low speeds it will not shift out of overdrive (again this is intermittent)
I have check the fluid (could use a change, but not bad) and other looking like it might be close or slightly over full. All is good.

Issue 4:
Temp gauge intermittently stops working.
All wiring at sensor is good.

Give all the intermittent issues and the 1537 code that won't clear, could this be an ECU issue? Any and all help would be greatly appreciated as I am drawing a blank on this.

 

Welcome to the forum

P1537 Intake Manifold Runner Control Stuck Open <<< which will cause bogging and other issue

IMRC was only used a few years(2001-2003) and was removed because it didn't work and caused problems............like you have

It has 3 parts(4 if you count the PCM)
The moveable plate inside the intake manifold
The actuator on the outside of intake that moves the plate
Then solenoid/valve that the PCM uses to open and close the plate via the actuator
The solenoid valve and actuator are vacuum operating devices

Video here on what usually breaks and cause the code: youtube.com/watch?v=YgikQ8s6Va0

You said you "fixed it" so what did you do?
Did you test if plate was moving if you applied vacuum to the actuator on the back of the intake?

Non-functioning IMRC could account for all the running issues including transmission


Temp gauge is not related
ECT sender(for gauge) should have a black/white stripe ground wire, and then a red/white stripe signal wire that runs to the dash gauge

2.3l Duratec also has a CHT(cylinder head temp) sensor instead of an ECT sensor that is used for the PCM only

If you unplug the SENDER and turn on the key, the temp gauge should go up to HOT, if not then install a jumper in that connector to GROUND the Red/white wire, and then gauge should go to HOT
If gauge does go to HOT then wire and gauge are OK, replace SENDER
Make sure you get a SENDER not a sensor, they look similar but are different
Sender uses 12volts
Sensor use 5volts

 

After spending time diagnosing IMRC code, it came down to removing the intake to physically look at the swirl plates. Issue with sticking plates found and I lucky. The plastic on the intake on #4 that holds the rod for the swirl plates broke and the end of the rod was not supported.

Have not gotten to other issues, but since engine has 200,000 miles on it going to do timing chain and gears. As well as replace the catalytic converter, O2 sensors, and perform a tune up.


Swirl plates



IMRC valve and actuator

 

Got a new intake manifold, plugs, plug wires, cats, and O2 sensors installed. Did not do the timing chain yet do to money constraints and I need to drop the pan and inspect the rod bearings.

Truck runs smooth and no check engine light for past 70 miles.

Still have a transmission issue. I replaced the filter and fluid, but still have an issue with hard shifts (believe this is a heat issue that from other transmission issues that need to be remedied before I kill the transmission.) and will not go into overdrive 4th unless I coast the truck (verified this by turning the overdrive of and feeling it shift and seeing the rpms raise), but as soon as barely five it throttle to maintain speed it drops into 3rd (even at 70mph and 4k RPM).
I have no transmission codes, but can only think of one of four issues 1. Bad servo, 2. Bad solenoid or leaking by, 3. Bad transmission 4. Electrical issue
Supposedly the transmission was rebuilt 20k ago but previous owner will not return a call on who did it.

May understanding is I have a 5R44E, so I have some reading to do to figure out next step with Transmission. If anyone has any suggestions, that would be awesome.

 

The transmission is a 5R44E
It is fully computer controlled

Harsh shifts can be caused by engine issues, computer is in "safe mode" to prevent transmission damage because of engine issues

I would expect P07xx codes otherwise
Not all readers can "see" the P07xx codes, you can unplug the 16 pin connector on transmission and then start engine, CEL should come on because computer sees no voltage thru solenoids
Turn off key
Read codes, should be a few "Sensor Circuit malfunction" P07xx codes in memory
That will tell you if your reader sees P07xx codes


Not at all uncommon for people to replace valve body and separator plate on the 4R and 5R transmissions, also most like to add "Shift Kit" at that time

 

RonD thank you so much for your replies and help on this as you are a wealth of knowledge. Finally found the issue. The previous owner did have the transmission rebuilt, but the wrong (and cheap) torque convertor that was installed was coming apart. Unfortunately it had caused other damage to the transmission.

After seeing the internal damage, both the builder and myself are dumbfounded as to how the transmission was even moving the truck must less shifting. Especially seeing it had no codes (I use a Solaris) from using my computer or the builders computer.

Unfortunately I had to have a complete rebuild done. Just got the truck back and installed the rest of the exhaust and now "Lil Red" runs like a top. The builder was nice enough to run the truck by Ford to make sure I did not have a computer issue causing it not to see and or set codes. Was told no issue's with computer.

Just have to address leaking rear axle seals and it will be ready for my daughter to take to college.

Thanks again for the input.

 

Good work, and thanks for the update

Too bad about the bad previous rebuild, there are good and bad people in all professions, glad you found a good one