Has anyone ever replaced the EGR valve on their 2006 2.3L ranger? My truck has been sputtering and wanting to die out if i'm at idle for too long. I figured it was a vacuum leak. I have to keep my foot on the gas and brake when i'm at stop lights. I've had a few mechanics look at it and finally found the leak in EGR. The mechanic i took it to is stating it is all the way in the back of the engine by firewall. I want to know if its worth having the mechanic change it or if it can be done somewhat easy at home.

 

You WILL have EGR codes in the computer and you WILL have the CEL(check engine light) on

So is the CEL on and what are the codes you have for EGR?

EGR is part of the emissions system so its heavily monitored, you can get EGR codes even when there is barely a problem with the system

If CEL is not on then it is not an EGR issue, for sure, mechanic should know this?????

Assuming its not the EGR, lets look at some basics first

On cold start engine should idle high, 1,100rpms or more depending on outside temp
Then as engine warms up idle will start to drop lower and lower until engine is fully warmed up, should settle in at about 750-800 rpm warm, if you have an automatic trans then can be a bit more
This is done by the CHT(cylinder heat temp) sensor, and the IAC(idle air control) valve with computer in between
The CHT tells the computer the engine temp, if cold the computer sets the CHOKE so engine idles high with Rich Fuel mix to warm up
Computer sets the idle using the IAC Valve to let in a bit more air.

The gas pedal is an AIR PEDAL, it only controls air flow into the engine, always has so a bit misnamed, lol
By holding down the gas pedal a bit you are increasing the air flow, and that increases RPMs, which the computer SHOULD BE doing with the IAC Valve

A vacuum leak allows EXTRA air to come into the engine, so tends to INCREASE RPMs not lower them, causing a stall


But yes, if your EGR Valve was leaking exhaust into the engine at idle then engine would run rough and stall, but you WOULD have codes set and CEL would be on

No I haven't changed the EGR valve on the 2.3l Duratec engine, but EGR valve can be very hard to remove, the EGR tube tends to be very very hard to get off

 

Thank you for the input RonD. That makes sense. They have checked the MAF sensor, the IAC valve, the O2 sensor, the ignition coil as well. Everything was fine. I believe code was p1507, not too sure. He sprayed carb cleaner around the egr and truck was really sputtering.

 

P1507 Idle Air Control Under speed Error

This mean computer couldn't raise the idle RPMs when it wanted to, so IAC Valve was not working at that time

Any auto parts store will read codes for free
Or if you have a smart phone you can get a Bluetooth OBD2 reader, under $40, these work on ANY vehicle sold in US or Canada since 1996, its the LAW, so not a bad investment if you plan on driving anything for the next few years
APPs are free or $5

And you can view live data as well

Because of the code I would plan on getting a Motorcraft(Ford) or Hitachi brand IAC Valve, use NO OTHER BRAND, they won't work
And a used wrecking yard Motorcraft IAC Valve would be fine, these are moving parts but don't have a high failure rate, so a used one is not a bad gamble

Not sure how the mechanic tested the IAC Valve but that code is pretty straight forward, "under speed error" means RPMs wouldn't come up when computer increased voltage to IAC Valve

IAC Valve setup is very precise, +/- 3 RPM, so computer responds instantly if RPMs start to drop, there is no delay, so if engine starts to stall computer would stop that instantly by opening IAC Valve, and P1507 says that it did try to do that but couldn't

 

Before changing your IAC, confirm the code is P1507

And if it is P1507, there are a couple tests to do before replacing it to confirm it's actually the IAC that's at fault.

 

Hello All- I have a P0400 error code on my 2010 Ford Ranger-(2.3L) EGR recuritlation flow. I think I found the EGR valve on the side of the motor (PS- on the head area) but mine doesn't have a vacuum line to it just a electrical plug, am I looking at the correct part or not? Took it apart- no gasket- no vacuum line - cleaned it out- all the parts I can find to replace it have the vacuum line and / or hard pipe- mine doesn't- Any body know what is right and wrong?
Thank
Mark Kendall
AKA- Z28 Mark

 

In a 2010 2.3l Ranger EGR valve might use a Stepper motor so no vacuum just wires for computer control

You can look up a part online and see what it looks like, just for future reference