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No, there is one flasher module under the dash, it is connected/used by both the turn signals and 4-ways
The multi-function switch connects the flasher module to the light bulbs, either 3 at a time(turn), or all 6(4-way)
(there are 2 bulbs in the cluster, which is why there are 3 or 6 bulbs, instead of 2 and 4)
The BLUE unit in the back ground is the flasher, under drivers side of dash, usually clipped to metal cross bar(the yellow unit was the WRONG flasher the parts store provided, just FYI)
You can usually reach up under the dash and feel it, it slides out of the clip holding it and will drop down enough so you can unplug it
If you ever install LED bulbs for turn/4-way you need to get an LED Flasher module as well
Then you have a short in the wiring, flasher should only make a noise when turn or 4-way is selected and thats a "click" noise
There are only 5 wires at the flasher so should be easy to test
Diagram below
Test the 12volt wires from the 2 fuses one has 12v all the time(4-way), the other only with key on(turn)
And used the BLACK wire as the ground just to be sure its OK
Other 2 wires run to the multi-function switch, so to test those you will need access to that connector, but............
If 12v and ground wires tested OK you can plug in the flasher and then test the light Blue wire, should see 12volts there
Then turn key on and test the White/red wire, should see 12v there as well
The flasher will have 12volt passing thru it all the time, well with key on, when the multi-function switch GROUNDS it thru a light bulb is when it starts to "click"
If both your flashes have the same buzzing then I will suspect wiring, if just the new one does then I would suspect the 'new' part, new doesn't mean "it works" any more, it means "never tested" now-a-days, so grain of salt on ANY "new" part
Then you have a short in the wiring, flasher should only make a noise when turn or 4-way is selected and thats a "click" noise
If both your flashes have the same buzzing then I will suspect wiring, if just the new one does then I would suspect the 'new' part, new doesn't mean "it works" any more, it means "never tested" now-a-days, so grain of salt on ANY "new" part
LOL on New! That's a fact!!! Trying to make time to test the wires today. Thanks again.
Then you have a short in the wiring, flasher should only make a noise when turn or 4-way is selected and thats a "click" noise
There are only 5 wires at the flasher so should be easy to test
Diagram below
Test the 12volt wires from the 2 fuses one has 12v all the time(4-way), the other only with key on(turn)
And used the BLACK wire as the ground just to be sure its OK
Other 2 wires run to the multi-function switch, so to test those you will need access to that connector, but............
If 12v and ground wires tested OK you can plug in the flasher and then test the light Blue wire, should see 12volts there
Then turn key on and test the White/red wire, should see 12v there as well
The flasher will have 12volt passing thru it all the time, well with key on, when the multi-function switch GROUNDS it thru a light bulb is when it starts to "click"
If both your flashes have the same buzzing then I will suspect wiring, if just the new one does then I would suspect the 'new' part, new doesn't mean "it works" any more, it means "never tested" now-a-days, so grain of salt on ANY "new" part
Well, I tested for 12v using Pin 4 (black wire) and all circuits measured 12v depending on key on or off, as needed. I also connected ground to the battery and tested the circuits that way and all tested at 12v. Signals and Hazards still sounds like caca so going to test the relay, again
Update - Installed new(used) cluster from junk yard, w/Tach. All instruments but Speedo work.....grrrrrrr!!!!! Could the issue be with the vehicle speed sensor (vss)?
Seat belt light remains constant on.
Flashers have a new symptom - buzzes sometimes and other times does a fast flash with a clicking sound....progress, I suppose, but just don't get it. What else are we looking for on this one?
Its possible, the VSS is on the transmission tail shaft in 1996, assuming 2WD
But you should get a CEL(check engine light) and code P0500 if there is no speed signal at computer
Assume odometer is also not moving, speedo/odo share the same VSS signal wire, if odometer is turning then speedo itself is the issue
You have the exterior light wiring diagram
You could unplug the multi-function switch
And apply 12volts to the turn bulbs, then see if they come on, just as a test of the wiring
12volt to Light green/white should light up Left side, front back and dash turn bulbs
And the white/light blue wire should light up the 3 bulbs on the right
There should be a dark blue/orange stripe wire on the connector, for headlights, it should have 12volts all the time, so you can use that wire to power turn signals, it has a 20amp fuse, fuse 11 in engine bay just in case, lol
Correct, odometer is not moving and no CEL at this time possibly because of battery disconnect so often lately. I believe mileage has to run like 50 miles to reset?
I will check power at multi-switch here in a bit, maybe with the dark blue/orange power supply or maybe better yet direct from battery using my test light?
Update - Checked the bulbs again, and while they looked fine I checked continuity and all were bad. Replaced them and now 3 of 4 work; left side flashers are normal operations with clicking sound, right side now has fast clicking and flashing. Right rear operates normally, right front stays on fully bright.
Front right socket (bulb mount) has positive continuity when tested with just it and bulb.
Front right electrical connector tested at .04v on Minor and .05v on Major, with turn signals in on position.
Took the truck for a quick drive this morning and speedo and odometer still not functioning, but still only a few miles on truck since last battery disconnect.
Speedo/odo should work full time battery disconnect doesn't matter there is no reset time for that
And just FYI, the reset time for computer is for Emissions testing, nothing else, so everything in the vehicle should work same as usually after a reset, info here: Ford Motor Company Driving Cycle
1996 gets speed signal directly from VSS sensor on transmission, one VSS wire is a ground, the other splits off and goes to cluster and computer, and cruise if so equipped
VSS generates its own AC power when vehicle is moving
You can test the two wires to make sure both are not grounded and test VSS OHMs should be about 200 ohms, I then 160-250 is the range
Snow here in Virginia and a bit too cold for this old man past few days but weather is breaking today. Will check VSS wires to ensure not grounded and between 160-250 ohms.
One wire on the VSS will test as a Ground, the system only uses 1/2 of the AC Voltage Sine Wave for its speed pulse
AC voltage swings above and below 0 volts, so a 1vAC reading will be +1v to -1v and back to +1v, the system is grounded so only the + side is used. +1v to 0v and back to +1v
In this use its not the "voltage" that's the signal, its the cycles per second, the + to 0 and back per second
Just FYI, that's how AC voltage powers things in your home
A light(or any powered device) works only when Current is passing thru it, current is electrons moving thru the light and that heats it up and it glows
In a DC circuit the electrons move in one direction, from + to - (actually its the other way, lol)
In an AC circuit the + and - reverses every few milliseconds(cycles per second, Hz), so electrons flow back and forth heating up the light and it glows
Wire connector O/B wire for ground tested good for ground, then removed and tested the sensor for continuity, ohms, and AC voltage (I think, lol!!!) See the attached video for testing. Note, I noticed a bit of oil on the G/B connector wire (see pic).
Arlighty.....so I went ahead and replaced the VSS and took the truck for a test drive. The speedo picked right up and I ran it to 40mph, and even the odometer was running perfectly....until they didn't. They abruptly stopped working while I was driving. The return trip yielded no change
Flashers and hazards work with a new bulb....yes! Speedo worked again on test drive tonight, then didn't, then did. Suspecting bad GY/BK wire to C215 connector. Will check it again in the morning on next test drive and jiggle GY/BK wire.
