Cylinder Head Temperature Sensor
Cylinder Head Temperature Sensor
I have 2002 2.3L 5 speed and want to replace the CHTS. It is right between spark plug 2 and 3 and it is down inside like the spark plugs with only the top cover of the wiring harness showing. I don't want to break it.
How can I remove the cap off the sensor? Do I need a screw driver and does it press in, down or what?
Pictures would be best. Thank you.
It doesn't start up and idle the way it used to. After a minute or so, it idles perfect. I already replaced Coil Pack, spark plugs, wires, Idle Air Control Module and Throttle Position Sensor. So I thought I would try the CHTS.
How can I remove the cap off the sensor? Do I need a screw driver and does it press in, down or what?
Pictures would be best. Thank you.
It doesn't start up and idle the way it used to. After a minute or so, it idles perfect. I already replaced Coil Pack, spark plugs, wires, Idle Air Control Module and Throttle Position Sensor. So I thought I would try the CHTS.
Welcome to the forum.
STOP replacing parts
90% of do it yourself replacement of sensors and controls were not needed, they were working fine.
Spark plugs and wires are fine to change.
If you want to spend some money then get an OBD2 reader/scanner, they work on ANY car or truck sold in North America from 1995 and up, so good long term investment.
The Bluetooth versions are under $25 and are used with any bluetooth smartphone or tablet as the display screen, they are wireless and can be used as live data scanners while driving which can be very helpful.
Now the computer is not smart, so codes are NOT to be taken literally, if a code definition mentions a sensor then that usually means the sensor is WORKING or computer wouldn't know there was a problem in that system.
Your description of the issue reads like you are losing fuel pressure when key/engine is off, not uncommon.
Try this
Turn key on and count to 3, turn key off
Repeat 3 times then try to start engine
Ford's setup only runs the fuel pump for 2 seconds each time key is turned on, that adds about 10-15psi of pressure to the system
Your 2002 runs at 65psi fuel pressure and when engine is off pressure should only drop to about 50psi and stay there for months, not hours or days........months
Once engine RPMs are above 400 fuel pump will come on full time
If you are losing fuel pressure when key is off then engine might not start first time or even second time and would struggle to stay running until fuel pressure got back up to above 45psi
Turning the key on and off 3 times would get pressure up so starting engine would be easier, if that is the problem.
So do the above test to see if it is the problem.
And just as a heads up, if the Coil pack, IAC valve or TPS was the problem the CEL(check engine light) would come on.
Coil would a feedback code
IAC would be a slow response code
TPS would be a does not match code
CHT is a simple temp device so would be an out of range code
STOP replacing parts
90% of do it yourself replacement of sensors and controls were not needed, they were working fine.
Spark plugs and wires are fine to change.
If you want to spend some money then get an OBD2 reader/scanner, they work on ANY car or truck sold in North America from 1995 and up, so good long term investment.
The Bluetooth versions are under $25 and are used with any bluetooth smartphone or tablet as the display screen, they are wireless and can be used as live data scanners while driving which can be very helpful.
Now the computer is not smart, so codes are NOT to be taken literally, if a code definition mentions a sensor then that usually means the sensor is WORKING or computer wouldn't know there was a problem in that system.
Your description of the issue reads like you are losing fuel pressure when key/engine is off, not uncommon.
Try this
Turn key on and count to 3, turn key off
Repeat 3 times then try to start engine
Ford's setup only runs the fuel pump for 2 seconds each time key is turned on, that adds about 10-15psi of pressure to the system
Your 2002 runs at 65psi fuel pressure and when engine is off pressure should only drop to about 50psi and stay there for months, not hours or days........months
Once engine RPMs are above 400 fuel pump will come on full time
If you are losing fuel pressure when key is off then engine might not start first time or even second time and would struggle to stay running until fuel pressure got back up to above 45psi
Turning the key on and off 3 times would get pressure up so starting engine would be easier, if that is the problem.
So do the above test to see if it is the problem.
And just as a heads up, if the Coil pack, IAC valve or TPS was the problem the CEL(check engine light) would come on.
Coil would a feedback code
IAC would be a slow response code
TPS would be a does not match code
CHT is a simple temp device so would be an out of range code
I have 2002 2.3L 5 speed and want to replace the CHTS. It is right between spark plug 2 and 3 and it is down inside like the spark plugs with only the top cover of the wiring harness showing. I don't want to break it.
How can I remove the cap off the sensor? Do I need a screw driver and does it press in, down or what?
Pictures would be best. Thank you.
It doesn't start up and idle the way it used to. After a minute or so, it idles perfect. I already replaced Coil Pack, spark plugs, wires, Idle Air Control Module and Throttle Position Sensor. So I thought I would try the CHTS.
How can I remove the cap off the sensor? Do I need a screw driver and does it press in, down or what?
Pictures would be best. Thank you.
It doesn't start up and idle the way it used to. After a minute or so, it idles perfect. I already replaced Coil Pack, spark plugs, wires, Idle Air Control Module and Throttle Position Sensor. So I thought I would try the CHTS.
I had friend replace it, without removing manifold or valve cover. The wires harness just clips off the sensor. Use socket and wrench to remove old sensor. It idles great now.
Also, a lot of my previous problems were fixed by replacing the Power Pack (Coil Pack). It was 14 years old and I was losing acceleration and power on hills etc, but replacing the Power Pack made the engine like almost new again, in my case, all engines and situations being different.
Also, a lot of my previous problems were fixed by replacing the Power Pack (Coil Pack). It was 14 years old and I was losing acceleration and power on hills etc, but replacing the Power Pack made the engine like almost new again, in my case, all engines and situations being different.
Did you use a deep socket? I tried removing it but couldn't with a regular one. I noticed my O-ring on it is cracked and I have oil in the spark plug wells so I figure that's the issue with it. I got the connector off, just not the actual sensor. How did you know your coil pack was faulty? Was it misfiring or were you getting codes?
I can't remember, but a deep socket like you would use on a spark plug is best bet.
I have oil in my spark plug well too. Also leaks into my cylinder, but spark plug combustion burns it right off. I add a quart of oil every month to engine, because gasket needs to be replaced, but I don't mind, atleast I know where the oil is leaking to. You would have to remove intake manifold , which is a real pain, to replace the spark plug well gasket.
I replaced my Coil Pack because it was the original and over 12 years old. I had no power on hills and acceleration was hesitant, and that fixed the problem.
I have oil in my spark plug well too. Also leaks into my cylinder, but spark plug combustion burns it right off. I add a quart of oil every month to engine, because gasket needs to be replaced, but I don't mind, atleast I know where the oil is leaking to. You would have to remove intake manifold , which is a real pain, to replace the spark plug well gasket.
I replaced my Coil Pack because it was the original and over 12 years old. I had no power on hills and acceleration was hesitant, and that fixed the problem.
This thread caught my attention because rodents chewed the rubber cover over the connector to the CHT sensor between plugs 2 and 3. The sensor is fine but I'd like to replace the cover while I'm replacing plug wires they also chewed. In fact the #2 wire was actually pulled off the plug causing a misfire. I used a neighbors OBDII device which told me the plug was not firing and that led me to the chewed parts. Does anyone know if the cover comes with the replacement connector with wire that I see for sale. The pictures don't show the cover.
thanks in advance
coarsegoldkid
thanks in advance
coarsegoldkid
Not sure it would come with any protective cover.
I would use one of theses: https://www.cabletiesandmore.ca/wire...SAAEgISWvD_BwE
The split loom is hard plastic, and comes in a few different diameters, and not very expensive, there is high temp plastic available as well
It isn't rodent proof, but what is, lol
Split means you can slide it onto a wire, or wires, without disconnecting them.
Most autoparts stores have short, 5' or 10' sections for sale
I would use one of theses: https://www.cabletiesandmore.ca/wire...SAAEgISWvD_BwE
The split loom is hard plastic, and comes in a few different diameters, and not very expensive, there is high temp plastic available as well
It isn't rodent proof, but what is, lol
Split means you can slide it onto a wire, or wires, without disconnecting them.
Most autoparts stores have short, 5' or 10' sections for sale
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