Oil on spark plugs
#1
Oil on spark plugs
Hi everyone. I am new here. Heard about it from friend. I have a few questions. I did tune up a while ago and found oil on spark plugs. Told not to worry about it. How bad is this and what could I be looking at as problem? Burning lots of oil now. Next ques. Looks like i am leaking fluid from transmission pan. Truck has 133,000 miles never done transmission service. I know i'm a dumb a@#!!!! So I hear I shouldn't flush and change fluid. What options do I have at this point? Truck has shifted a little rough, barely noticeable but enough to feel. Doesn't happen alot. Thanks again for any help.
#3
#4
forget the dealership
get a professional tranny rebuild
( they install better and/or updated parts )
the engine is completely torn apart
cylinders rebored and honed
crankshaft bearing caps are aligned honed
new crankshaft bearings , connecting rod bearings , camshaft bearings
( time to install a better camshaft )
camshaft lifters, roller rockers , timing chain , water pump
new and better head gasket, a
ARP head bolts etc.
if you do go for a engine re-build, make sure you use good quality synthetic engine oil
( i use 2 bottles of SUPER CONCENTRATED DURALUBE every oil change )
duralube greatly reduces the friction engine parts generate
get a professional tranny rebuild
( they install better and/or updated parts )
the engine is completely torn apart
cylinders rebored and honed
crankshaft bearing caps are aligned honed
new crankshaft bearings , connecting rod bearings , camshaft bearings
( time to install a better camshaft )
camshaft lifters, roller rockers , timing chain , water pump
new and better head gasket, a
ARP head bolts etc.
if you do go for a engine re-build, make sure you use good quality synthetic engine oil
( i use 2 bottles of SUPER CONCENTRATED DURALUBE every oil change )
duralube greatly reduces the friction engine parts generate
#5
forget the dealership
get a professional tranny rebuild
( they install better and/or updated parts )
the engine is completely torn apart
cylinders rebored and honed
crankshaft bearing caps are aligned honed
new crankshaft bearings , connecting rod bearings , camshaft bearings
( time to install a better camshaft )
camshaft lifters, roller rockers , timing chain , water pump
new and better head gasket, a
ARP head bolts etc.
if you do go for a engine re-build, make sure you use good quality synthetic engine oil
( i use 2 bottles of SUPER CONCENTRATED DURALUBE every oil change )
duralube greatly reduces the friction engine parts generate
get a professional tranny rebuild
( they install better and/or updated parts )
the engine is completely torn apart
cylinders rebored and honed
crankshaft bearing caps are aligned honed
new crankshaft bearings , connecting rod bearings , camshaft bearings
( time to install a better camshaft )
camshaft lifters, roller rockers , timing chain , water pump
new and better head gasket, a
ARP head bolts etc.
if you do go for a engine re-build, make sure you use good quality synthetic engine oil
( i use 2 bottles of SUPER CONCENTRATED DURALUBE every oil change )
duralube greatly reduces the friction engine parts generate
don't bother with rebuilding either, go to a quick lube place and have all of your transmission fluid replaced, mr lube does this, they have to hook your vehicle up to a machine and let it run for about 5 minutes... costs up here, about $80, also get your pan serviced, this will take care of the leak...
as for the oil, use a thicker oil, if it's not cold out, i would run 20-50 you could start out with 10-40, see how that works, then 15-40, then the 20-50, i run 20-50 in my mustang 5L it's got 230 000km on it, and with the thicker oil, it doesn't burn anything... you can also use something like kleenflo's oil seal, it's a silicone based item, essentially, that will rejuvinate the gasgets and seals (valve seals could be to blame) won't do anything for your rings though... there are products designed for a vehicle with toasted rings, it gives them a second lift, it's a bandaid though... i am a firm believer in lucas oil's oil stabilizer, it thickens the oil, while not adding weight to it... so it will make your 10-30 oil pour out of the bottle as easly as normal, but it will be all slimy and have the slime trail to it...
the oil seal product gets added on top of your oil, as it soaks in and will be gone after a few miles, the oil stabilizer replaces oil... and as for the ring repair, i think duralube makes one...
#7
ya, but a rebuild may not be in order just because they are worn... depends on how much oil he is losing, right?
some people think a quart every 2 months is a lot... i've had vehicles i put a quart in every 2 weeks
#9
First off lets clear something up was the oil on the end of the plug that goes into the engine or on the outside end of the plugs? Also rebuilding a transmission cuz it's leaking around the pan LMFAO at that one...... Your trans is a little rough because your filter is cloging up it gets better when your truck warms up dont it.
#10
#12
#13
Thanks guys. Been awhile since I've been back. Got tranny flush and all is well. Took it to transmission shop had them drive and test and that was his recommedation. As far as oil on plugs haven't done anything with it. Burning about 1 Qt per oil change(approx 3000 mi) Told that's not bad but I use Mobil synthetic and it's not cheap!!! Lol.
#14
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I just did mine, I have the same Motor, Same year. Jack up the front of the truck and put some jack stands under the frame. Remove the drivers side tire AND the shroud. If you use a flashlight, you should be able to see it. It's on top of this big black box (oil seperator?) in the top right hand side. You will see it.
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