PDQ!! Seafoam question......new plugs before, or new plugs after??? - Ranger-Forums - The Ultimate Ford Ranger Resource


General Technical & Electrical General technical and electrical discussion for the Ford Ranger that does not fit in any other sub-forum.

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Search this Thread
  #1  
Old 05-21-2007
Fx4wannabe01's Avatar
RF Veteran
Thread Starter
iTrader: (23)
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Boring, Oregon
Posts: 21,721
PDQ!! Seafoam question......new plugs before, or new plugs after???

Hi.

As some of you may know, I sucked in water while on a wheelin trip last week. Anyway...I got her running pretty much right, just to be sure I want to sea foam it and swap the plugs.

Do I seafoam it with the old plugs still in it, then swap to new plugs??

Or do I swap in new plugs, then seafoam it??

I've got a couple more hours of sunlight...and I wanna do it tonight.

Thanks.

Shane
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 05-21-2007
jtslmn720's Avatar
RF Veteran
iTrader: (1)
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Kent State, Kent Ohio
Posts: 7,367
if you plan on changing plugs, change them after... but you shouldnt need to change your plugs after seafoaming
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 05-21-2007
RentonRanger's Avatar
Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Walla Walla, WA
Posts: 705
Everything I've read says to change them after. I'm gonna be doing the seafoam thing after I'm done with the Auto-Rx treatment.
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 05-21-2007
Mr. Special's Avatar
Member
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Irvine, CA
Posts: 3,411

OK so what if i dont want to replace my plugs? Like if i do the seafom will i have to replace the plugs? I really want to do this seafom stuff, but if its going to make me also have to replace my plugs... that would be lame
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 05-21-2007
Fx4wannabe01's Avatar
RF Veteran
Thread Starter
iTrader: (23)
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Boring, Oregon
Posts: 21,721
alright I did it this after noon.....very disappointed....not much smoke at all!!! but it madethe run run better better!!!! Now, if only there's a liquid that fixes that pesky "no 2nd gear mod" i'd be back to normal!!
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 05-21-2007
fzr confused's Avatar
Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: palm beach gardens fl
Posts: 31
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Special

OK so what if i dont want to replace my plugs? Like if i do the seafom will i have to replace the plugs? I really want to do this seafom stuff, but if its going to make me also have to replace my plugs... that would be lame
depending on how much crap you have built up you may or may not foul the plugs with the seafoam...its not a definite either way. but it is recommended if you are going to change them anyway, play it safe and do it after.
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 05-21-2007
HarryTasker's Avatar
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 1,491
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fx4wannabe01
alright I did it this after noon.....very disappointed....not much smoke at all!!! but it madethe run run better better!!!! Now, if only there's a liquid that fixes that pesky "no 2nd gear mod" i'd be back to normal!!
Shane,

If the tranmission proves to be too mcuh trouble I would suggest taking it to reliable transmission in Aloha. It is on the SW corner of TV Highway and 170th. Jim did the transgo shift kit and larger tranny cooler in my truck. He comes highly recommended by those that have used him.
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 05-22-2007
Hanzo Steel's Avatar
Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Aurora, Co/SFV, Ca.
Posts: 593
I had to change mine after.
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 05-22-2007
RF Veteran
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: College Station, TX
Posts: 5,782
I changed mine after I seafoamed the zuk, but that's because I think I fubar-ed some of them because I didn't pull the plugs and run the starter to clear the cylinders before I tried turning it over again.
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 05-22-2007
Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Waterloo, IL
Posts: 17
My old plugs were fine after I Seafoamed. I went ahead and changed them because I had bought new ones already. I believe that it's recommended to change oil afterwards. Something about it possibly washing past the rings. Here is the Ford article shamelessly stolen from another forum. I just noticed this applies to the ohv engine, not sure if any different for ohc engine.
Article No:
01-19-7

10/01/01

^ ENGINE - 4.0L OHV - CARBON KNOCK ON ACCELERATION

^ NOISE - CARBON KNOCK ON ACCELERATION - VEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH 4.0L OHV ENGINE ONLY

FORD:
1990-1997 AEROSTAR
1990-2000 EXPLORER, RANGER

ISSUE
Some vehicles equipped with the 4.0L OHV engine may exhibit an engine noise which may be perceived by the customer as a piston/connecting rod bearing knock. This carbon knock is heard only under load during the drive cycle. Carbon knock is a customer drive duty-cycle phenomenon that cannot be repaired with an engine exchange. This may be caused by carbon build-up within the combustion chamber.

ACTION
Verify condition. If normal diagnostics fail to correct the condition, de-carbon the combustion chamber to help quiet the carbon knock noise. Refer to the following Service Procedure for details.

SERVICE PROCEDURE

1. Use Motorcraft Carburetor Tune-up Cleaner PM-3.

2. Carbon removal:
a. Disconnect canister purge line from throttle body.
b. Attach a vacuum line to the canister purge port.
c. At hot engine idle, allow the engine to ingest 1/2 to 2/3 of a can of Motorcraft Carburetor Tune-up Cleaner. Use caution not to ingest too quickly due to potential hydro-lock issues.
d Shut engine off and allow it to soak for one hour.
e. Start engine, allow engine to ingest the remainder of the Motorcraft Carburetor Tune-up Gleaner.
f. Remove vacuum line and re-install canister purge line.
g. Road test vehicle at 3500 RPM for 2-3 miles.
h. Repeat above procedure two times for a total of three times.
i. Change oil and filter.


3. Review the customers' driving habits. The recommended drive cycle should include daily periods of engine operation above 3,000 RPM, such as a brisk acceleration from a stop position. This will break/burn the carbon off the piston head.

4. Use regular unleaded fuel, 87 Octane. Mid-grade and Premium fuels may increase the probability of carbon buildup, leading to a knock noise.



PARTS BLOCK

OTHER APPLICABLE ARTICLES: NONE
WARRANTY STATUS: Eligible Under The Provisions Of Bumper To Bumper Warranty Coverage

OPERATION DESCRIPTION TIME

011907A Remove Carbon From 1.6 Hrs.
Combustion Chamber
(Includes Time To Perform
Procedure A Total Of
Three Times)

DEALER CODING
CONDITION
BASIC PART NO. CODE
6108 42

OASIS CODES: 497000, 615000, 702000, 702100
Reply With Quote
Reply

Related Topics
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Before and After - New Tires and Rims Kawidan Wheels & Tires Semi-Tech 7 09-07-2008 06:30 AM
Seafoam, before or after fuel filter change? winks General Ford Ranger Discussion 10 08-09-2008 06:46 PM
Rough Idle after seafoam treatment. Help rybread5520 2.9L & 3.0L V6 Tech 3 05-24-2008 11:50 AM
Code 0301 – Cyl 1 Misfire…after using Seafoam rocketman121 General Technical & Electrical 5 01-21-2008 09:48 AM
Seafoam Motor Treatment, vs. Seafoam Deep Creep? iplayloudly General Technical & Electrical 5 06-22-2007 04:14 PM


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -6. The time now is 02:53 PM.


We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites.