EVAP Emission Control System Valve?? - Ranger-Forums - The Ultimate Ford Ranger Resource


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Old 04-11-2005
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EVAP Emission Control System Valve??

I had to go back and get my code pulled for the check engine light at lunch. The code came back as a P1443 EVAP Emission Control Valve. Does anyone know what this is and how to get to it?? Autozone told me that it was probably my gas cap, so I bought another one. I thought someone on here might have had to replace one. My truck is a '95 2.3L.
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Old 04-11-2005
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Old 04-11-2005
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From the workshop manual:

B1: CHECK FOR DIAGNOSTIC TROUBLE CODE P0455 OR P1443
B2: VISUALLY CHECK FOR GROSS EVAP SYSTEM LEAKS
B3: CHECK FOR EVAP SYSTEM LEAKS
B4: CHECK FOR BLOCKAGE BETWEEN THE EVAP CANISTER PURGE VALVE AND THE CANISTER VENT SOLENOID
B5: CHECK FOR BLOCKAGE BETWEEN FUEL FILLER PIPE AND THE FUEL VAPOR TEE
B6: CHECK FOR FAILED EVAP CANISTER PURGE VALVE OR FUEL TANK PRESSURE SENSOR

Basically, it's a leak or blockage somewhere most likely. Have you put on an aftermarket exhaust, particularly a dual exhaust? If so, check if it's routed correctly. If you offroad look for damage to the small tubing in the vicinity of the spare tire (drop the spare).

Your evaporative emission control system has just one tube the runs up to the intake. All the rest of it exists in/on your fuel tank, and the evap cannister up above your spare tire. Check all that stuff, particularly the tubing, for leaks or damage.

There are two valves: the evap control valve and cannister vent soleniod valve. They are possible candidates as well, and the wiring that goes to them.

So: basically I'd look for damage under the truck to all that small plastic tubing first. It's not so uncommon after dual exhausts (if they are run too close they can even melt the tubes, it's actually happened) or other under-the-truck work for something to get whacked -- or offroading of course.
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Old 04-11-2005
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Thanks for the replies. I still have the stock exhaust and will get up under there and check for leaks. I also have a hard time filling the gas tank. I have to pump it really slow, or it kicks off and wont fill (like its full). It will do this even when its on E. I will check under the truck and see what I can find.
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Old 04-11-2005
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On the earlier trucks, there is also a Purge Flow Sensor that can give a P1443. This sensor (thermistor) has been eliminated on the newer trucks. The PCM now just looks for a change in the IAC duty cycle to infer a flowrate in the purge line.
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Old 04-12-2005
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The Purge Flow Sensor is a high failure rate part on mid to late 90s Rangers. On most years, it is part of an assembly consisting of the Canister Purge Solenoid and the Purge Flow Sensor. Look for it near the driver side headlamp. The dealer parts catalog may list the Purge Flow Sensor as a "Thermistor", which is what it is.
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Old 04-12-2005
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And pay attention to what Bob just said with regard to location. When I answered your question I wasn't looking at the manual for your year truck. Your evap cannister may be in the front of your truck and not the back like I suggested.

Sorry but I'm still at work as I write this without the older shop manuals handy -- they're at home.
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Old 04-13-2005
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How do I know if the canister is bad? Also, am I looking for a bad sensor or valve or canister? I appreicate all of the help, but I just dont want to throw a bunch of parts at it not knowing exactly what it is.
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Old 04-13-2005
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You would have to test it properly to know. That requires some special tools to pressurize the system and isolate the leaks. I'm not sure what the most likely thing is, but you START with finding everything and the tubing that connects it and inspecting it all for damage. You don't start replacing parts until you've inspected it thorougly for anything obvious that might tip you off to whats wrong.

I don't think you answered one of my original questions: have you had any work done to the truck, or had it in a situation, prior to the problem, that could have damaged something in the evaporative emission system? If so, that's the kind of thing you look for first: something damaged when something else was worked on, or by offroading or other situation where parts might have taken a "hit".

Nobody can just tell you what's wrong, because there are so many possible causes for a leak, and none of us are there to look at it. You'll have to hound dog it.
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Old 04-13-2005
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Quote:
Originally Posted by n3elz
I don't think you answered one of my original questions: have you had any work done to the truck, or had it in a situation, prior to the problem, that could have damaged something in the evaporative emission system?
The truck is totally stock. It has a 111k miles on it and it seems to be all original. I bought the truck in November as a daily driver and to keep the miles off my '04 Screw, plus it gets better mileage. I have put a little over 4k miles and have had no problems with it at all. I have not had it worked on by anyone but me (I added power door locks, keyless entry, and an air horn). I dont take it off road and dont abuse it or run it hard. I am going to go over it with a fine tooth comb tonight and see if I can see anything that doesnt look right. Could the canister be clogged up? Could this be the reason I have to fill the tank so slow? I am going to check all of my vents and see what they look like. Thanks again for taking time to help me out!
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Old 04-13-2005
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It could be. Try filling the tank with the engine running and see if it's as bad, just for giggles. With the system powered up, maybe something might open up -- don't know. I'd just like to know if it makes a difference. Later tonight I'll sit down with the manual for your year truck and see what I can figure out.
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Old 04-13-2005
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As stated before, the Purge Flow Sensor is a known problem on 90s Rangers and causes a lot of P1443's. That doesn't mean that it is the PFS for sure but the odds are that it is.

A clogged canister should not make your tank hard to fill. Remember that since the cap is wide open and the tank is depressurized, not much is going through the canister then. There is a vent tube that runs up from the tank to the top of the filler neck that does the bulk of the venting during fuel tank filling. Check to see if it is pinched or otherwise blocked. Also check the filler neck itself for obstructions.
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Old 04-18-2005
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OK, this weekend I went over the truck real good and couldnt find any kinked or (obviously) obstructed vent hoses. I got under the truck and made sure that the filler neck was not kinked. Everything looked ok. I am going to go ahead and change the PFS. Do either of you have an pics of what I am looking at? I called around and they are going to have to get the numbers off of the old one before they can get me the right one. Does this sound right? He said that he needs me to bring him the old one and he can order me the right one, but I have to know what I am looking for.
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Old 04-18-2005
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Sorry, no photos. Look near the driver side headlight for an assembly with a couple of electrical connectors and hoses going to it, one from the charcoal canister.

The thread below has some 97 part numbers. Ford uses a "base part number" in the middle of the P/N and this is common for a particular type of part across all models/years. Using that and his 95 parts info, your dealer should be able to get you waht you need:
http://www.obdii.com/ubb/Forum1/HTML/002192.html

Before shelling out the money for the new parts, be sure to go over the purge hoses carefully. You could just have a leak or a pinch.

http://autos.msn.com/research/vip/re...x?modelid=1107
http://autos.msn.com/research/vip/Re...d=1073&src=vip
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Old 04-18-2005
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Thanks! I also found this:
http://autorepair.about.com/library/faqs/bl647f.htm
I am going to look tonight for something that has 3 wires and some hoses going to it. I will ohm it out and see if its out of the tolerance of 190ohms. Either way I will know what it looks like at that point.
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Old 04-18-2005
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Quote:
Originally Posted by monkey-1
Good find! It is so much better when you can confirm the failure before buying the replacement part!
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Old 04-18-2005
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I think I found it, but I cant be sure yet. I got home late and I didnt have time to run down and grab my multimeter. This is the only thing I can see that it might be. It has three wires and a hose going to it, but is on the exact wrong corner of the engine compartment. Its on the passenger side of the engine near the firewall. Is this it (click for larger pic):




**EDIT**
I finally found a picture:

Its called a CANISTER PURGE VALVE and is $26.67. Is this the right thing??

I also found this on the same site:

Its called a CANISTER PURGE SOLENOID and its $33.35.

Last edited by monkey-1; 04-18-2005 at 11:02 PM.
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Old 06-16-2005
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check engine light

Hey there just wish to remind everyone that this web site is very helpful. Any way I just purchased a 1996 Ford Ranger XL 2.3L with 64000 original miles on it. I drove it for one day then the check engine light began to show nothing seems to be wrong with the engine although I did puchase a gas cap with a key on it I don't have a garage for the Ranger--its my work drive. Could it be that the new gas cap is causing the check engione light to appear?
Has any one had this problem?
I also noticed that while fuleing the vehicle it took a really long time to fill.
virtual_verve
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Old 07-19-2005
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You absolutly can not put an aftermarket fuel cap on newer vehicles. It will cause and evap leak. Ive read some false information in this thread. This is how the Evaporative Emissions System works....
Fuel vapors from the fuel tank are not to be released into the atmosphere by law. So to combat this it is mandated that vehicles are equipped with Evap systems.
Fuel vapors must either directed to the intake to be burned as air/fuel mixture, or purged into the atmosphere after passing through the charcoal canister. The pcm constantly monitors and runs active tests to ensure proper operation. The Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) or check engine light will illuminate if the Evap system fails 3 consecutive active tests. So in other words you have a malfunction and the aftermarket gas cap is not helping, buy a Ford fuel cap specific to your vehicle. If you dont tighten your fuel cap all the way or leave it off and drive around it will set a Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) and the light will come on. On most systems there is a Canister Purge Valve, and Vaccum Switching Valve, and a canister control VSV. If you can get your hands on a factory service manual for your particular vehicle you can follow the "diagnostic trouble tree" and will give you step by step instructions for diagnosing your particular problem. I know Toyota vehcles require a scan tool to perform most Evap Monitor tests and its handy to have a manual vaccum pump also. But im not up on how Ford systems work specifically but i hope this enlightens you somewhat. If you have any more questions I will be glad to help if I can.
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Old 07-19-2005
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Oh and also see if there are any Technical Service Bulletins regarding the DTC and your year and model.
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Old 09-08-2005
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ToyoTech I do not believe your are correct about the gas cap. I agree you can not just walk in and grab an off the shelf gas cap. I had to get one from the behind the counter that was specific to my Truck. What parts of this thread are wrong as you state above?

Does anybody have a diagram of the evap system? I have replaced the gas cap and the light was off for several weeks after resetting the ecu. Then the check fuel cap light came on followed by the check engine light. What is the next item to check. I have the TSB in hand, and I am reading it.

I have not changed the exhaust. Any pointers would be appreciated. The truck in question is a 01 supercab 4x4 4.0 5spd auto equipped car.
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Old 09-08-2005
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ToyoTech I do not believe your are correct about the gas cap. I agree you can not just walk in and grab an off the shelf gas cap. I had to get one from the behind the counter that was specific to my Truck. What parts of this thread are wrong as you state above?

Does anybody have a diagram of the evap system? I have replaced the gas cap and the light was off for several weeks after resetting the ecu. Then the check fuel cap light came on followed by the check engine light. What is the next item to check. I have the TSB in hand, and I am reading it.

I have not changed the exhaust. Any pointers would be appreciated. The truck in question is a 01 supercab 4x4 4.0 5spd auto equipped car.
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