2.3L & 2.5L I4 Tech General discussion of 2.3L and 2.5L I4 Ford Ranger engines.

Temperature gauge issue

Old 03-06-2019
Kharon's Avatar
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Join Date: Oct 2018
Location: San Antonio
Posts: 44
Temperature gauge issue

I have a 2008 2.3L my temperature gauge donít work right meaning once I start my truck and drive around it wonít move or sometimes it shoot up to hot or in middle and back down..and wonít move again, what could be the issue ?
also how would I wire a battery voltage meter ?
Old 03-07-2019
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I don't see a temp SENDER used in 2008 Rangers
The 2.3l duratec Engines used a CHT(cylinder head temp) sensor for computer instead of ECT sensor

The 2004 and up Rangers use a digital dash, called HEC, hybrid electronic cluster
The gauges "look" analog but they are all controlled by a micro processor on the dash
So computer is probably sending CHT sensor temps to the dash temp gauge

If CHT sensor or its wiring was having a problem I would expect computer to set a code for that........................

Read here: http://www.carlogic.org/bg/data/Ford...ler%20mode.pdf

This will show you how to run thru tests on the gauges and cluster
The HEC is part of the anti-theft system(PATS) as well, so you can't just swap it out, if its unplugged engine will not start, if you put in a different one engine will not start
As far as I know only Ford service center can replace an HEC, and they have to first order it from Ford because only Ford's main service center can program Odometer, Dealers can not
Once the new cluster is delivered they have to "re-marry" the computer and cluster so engine will start

Ford had a bad track record of people swapping in low mile odometers to sell used vehicles for more money so they switched to the HEC in most models in early to mid-2000's

Voltage gauge should be fused and then connected to KEY ON 12v source, and then grounded in the cab, Voltage gauge will DRAIN the battery if it left on full time

2008 has the Smart Junction Box(SJB) behind passenger side kick panel, it has the cab fuse panel
Fuse #10 is 10amp and has KEY ON power, you can use a "Fuse tap" to get voltage gauge reading from there

For back light on gauge
On the dimmer module there should be a Blue/white stripe wire, thats the OUTPUT voltage to the dash bulbs, you can tap that wire to get back light for voltage gauge

You could also just hook back light to the fuse 10 power wire at the gauge and light would be on when gauge was on, no dimming

Some of the digital display voltage meters just have the 2 wires, 12v/ground, no back light

Last edited by RonD; 03-07-2019 at 01:15 PM.
Old 03-08-2019
Kharon's Avatar
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2018
Location: San Antonio
Posts: 44
Preformed the test...

Thanks for the link I didnít know there was test you could run, Iíve been yawing my scanner and it didnít help.
i ran the test and it stated if an gauge didnít work during the gauge sweep youíll need to replace it cluster... well thatís now on my to-do list.
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