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Couldn't find any threads that could solve my issue
Hey folks
Got an interesting issue.. Got a 98 3.0 XLT model
Was getting ready to put it up for sale and decided to clean it up, so washed the engine bay (not my brightest idea, I know)
Now my cluster is only half working.
Works:
-Backlight (except bottom left corner, used to always work perfectly)
-Turn Signals
-Battery light comes on when I touch gas pedal and then goes away
-Oil pressure gauge
Doesn't work:
-Tachometer
-Speedometer
-Gas, voltage, temperature gauge
-Other warning lights (check engine, airbag, break, "check gauge" for gas, etc)
-Odometer
-Trip meter
Checked all the fuses with a volt meter - All are fine
Pulled the cluster out, doesn't seem to have any issues with the wiring
Tested the temp gauge/sender. Didn't solve anything
Other than that starts up, runs great like usual
Is there something I could've knicked? Why is it only working partly..?
Thank you for all your help in advance :)
Voltage gauge in cluster would be what I would focus on
Check
C214 pin13, 12v power for Volt gauge, fuse 11 in cab fuse box
C215 pin 2, ground for volt gauge
Since you "cleaned" engine bay, also check MEGA FUSE connections. its on the outside of engine fuse box
Disconnect one battery cable
Then remove wires on MEGA FUSE and clean connections
These wires power the WHOLE vehicle
Thanks RonD & Scrambler82
I went through the body grounds, they seem to be all intact.
Checked and cleaned all the mega fuses
Also double checked the fuses. #11 was out. It's a 7.5a but when I pulled it and checked the output on that fuse was 16.54amp. Thats why it kept blowing. Replaced it with another 7.5 and works for now..
Cluster came back on, but.. Volt gauge keeps fluctuating from mid to high. Checked the voltage when running and was getting almost 17v at the battery and at the alternator. Tested the battery and the alternator and both are good (bought them new few months ago too) The coolant gauge is all the way high, like past the actual gauge. The heat works so I think thermostat is fine. I'm thinking its either the sensor or the sender..
Also keeps dying overnight, so something is draining it..
You need to correct this or you will ruin battery and other electrics
A voltage regulator controls the voltage going to the Rotor in the alternator, usually it is 7 to 9 volts, this causes the alternator to output 13 to 15volts
Your voltage regulator may be sending 12volts to Rotor, which it should NEVER EVER do.
I’ll re-test the alternator at a different store.
Also the voltage goes up anytime I go over 1500 Rpm. If I’m idling at a stoplight it goes back where it should be.
Voltage regulator should keep voltage in the system between 13.5 and 14.5volts at all RPMs and with no or ALL electrics on
Voltage regulator varies the voltage to the Rotor to do that
If voltage goes up and down with RPMs that means voltage regulator is stuck at one voltage, broken
I had that Body to Block problem before and it took me a while to find it
I figured out the electrical problem. When I washed it, the alternator shorted and the regulator was going full blast to the battery. I replaced it today under warranty.
But lucky enough I sold it today and don't have to deal with it anymore.
Thank you so much for your help guys!
03-01-2019
