2.3L & 2.5L I4 Tech General discussion of 2.3L and 2.5L I4 Ford Ranger engines.

What kind of oil do you use

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Old Feb 16, 2007
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Vaterland's Avatar
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From: Lil Hick Town
What kind of oil do you use

I had mine done this last time by a shop and im not sure what they used and plan on changing it with in the necxt 1800 miles.what do you guys use full synthetic?half?regular oil?

ps:if u guys are wondering why i didnt change it myself its not because im lazy its because im in a cast i broke a couple of a couple bones all threw out my arm.
 
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Old Feb 16, 2007
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Amsoil PAO based synthetics EVERYWHERE in the drivetrain.

I only change my oil once a year, at about 19K to 20K and I have it tested. Wear metals are less than what you'd find in a conventional oil with far, far less miles.

I'm sold on it. Other PAO based oils like Redline, RoyalPurple, Mobil1 (the good type) and so on are also good. Amsoils claim to fame is being first, and having the longest working additive package for guaranteed extended drain performance.

Edit: Oh, and I hope that arm heals soon and you're not in pain!
 
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Old Feb 16, 2007
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I have been using Castrol Syntec for about 2 years now changing my oil every 5,000 miles. I haven't had it tested or anything, however, it always comes out looking slightly darker than when I put it in. No problems yet.
 
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Old Feb 16, 2007
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Originally Posted by n3elz
Amsoil PAO based synthetics EVERYWHERE in the drivetrain.

I only change my oil once a year, at about 19K to 20K and I have it tested. Wear metals are less than what you'd find in a conventional oil with far, far less miles.

I'm sold on it. Other PAO based oils like Redline, RoyalPurple, Mobil1 (the good type) and so on are also good. Amsoils claim to fame is being first, and having the longest working additive package for guaranteed extended drain performance.

Edit: Oh, and I hope that arm heals soon and you're not in pain!
Amsoil hands down for me too, I have noticed improved performance and fuel economy. Plus as John stated, the extended change intervals are wonderful.....
 
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Old Feb 16, 2007
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From: Charlestown, IN
Motorcraft.......

this topic comes up about once a month.....
 
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Old Feb 16, 2007
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Originally Posted by lifted97ranger
Motorcraft.......

this topic comes up about once a month.....
Yeah, I know it does.....
 
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Old Feb 16, 2007
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Mobil 1 and Lucas.
 
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Old Feb 16, 2007
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currently my dads stock of valvoline.... but once im out of that im switching to mobile 1 synthetic...
 
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Old Feb 16, 2007
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ya, i use penzoil platinum full synthetic 5-w30 in my 98 2.5L
 
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Old Feb 16, 2007
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royal purple as of today
 
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Old Feb 16, 2007
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mobil 1 fully synthetic...just recently switched from semi-synthetic...and also my dads boss has been running fully synthetic for a while now and changes it every 10,000m miles (thats what its said to be good for) and an oil filter change every 5,000
 
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Old Feb 16, 2007
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valvoline and royal purple
 
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Old Feb 16, 2007
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royal purple....works as good as it tastes
 
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Old Feb 16, 2007
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Originally Posted by coolpeoplswillis
royal purple....works as good as it tastes
is that good or bad?
 
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Old Feb 16, 2007
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From: DFW
olive oil
 
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Old Feb 16, 2007
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Whatever is easiest to clean off of a rollback....
 
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Old Feb 16, 2007
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From: DFW
Originally Posted by l2en
Whatever is easiest to clean off of a rollback....
mobil 1 full synthetic?

FWIW, I've been using M1 full syn for SUV/Truck with no issues
 
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Old Feb 16, 2007
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Originally Posted by Lefty04LevelII
mobil 1 full synthetic?

FWIW, I've been using M1 full syn for SUV/Truck with no issues
That's the stuff. Everyone I've ever talked to that knew a good bit of internals says that suv formula is a gimmick and that it's no dif from mobil 1.
 
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Old Feb 16, 2007
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Originally Posted by l2en
That's the stuff. Everyone I've ever talked to that knew a good bit of internals says that suv formula is a gimmick and that it's no dif from mobil 1.
all I want is full synthetic and that's all I can find in the 5 qt jugs at Wal-Mart. They stopped carrying 5w30 full synthetic Castrol in the 5 qt. and I can't find it anywhere else in this town. Of course I've also only done 2 changes with Mobil 1 full syn.
 
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Old Feb 16, 2007
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Originally Posted by Lefty04LevelII
all I want is full synthetic and that's all I can find in the 5 qt jugs at Wal-Mart. They stopped carrying 5w30 full synthetic Castrol in the 5 qt. and I can't find it anywhere else in this town. Of course I've also only done 2 changes with Mobil 1 full syn.
Lucky dog! They only sell it by the 6qt case around here.

It's like every five oil changes, I get one free. Minus the filter, lol.

edit: If I can own a vehicle long enough to get 5 oil changes of Mobil 1!!!
 
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Old Feb 16, 2007
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Originally Posted by l2en
edit: If I can own a vehicle long enough to get 5 oil changes of Mobil 1!!!
HAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAHAHAHAHAHAHA

We should start a fan club. "Level II Owners Screwed by Local Dealership"
 
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Old Feb 17, 2007
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I tried mobil one full synthitic oil in my last truck, and you know what I get? A screwed up cam lobe! just a cowincidence (sp?) I guess. Something rounded the lobe off 95%.
 
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Old Feb 17, 2007
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Our company just became an Elf distibutor so I now use the Elf Evolution SXR

good stuff
 
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Old Feb 19, 2007
  #24  
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Originally Posted by SouthernMudSlinger
I tried mobil one full synthitic oil in my last truck, and you know what I get? A screwed up cam lobe! just a cowincidence (sp?) I guess. Something rounded the lobe off 95%.
It wasn't Mobil 1 that caused your flat cam. All oils over the last 10 years have had to reduce zinc content due to the tree hugging environmentalists. Zinc is awesome for anti-scuff and reduces foaming under high RPM. Add that with poor metalugy in the casting of camshafts these days and cams go flat. People building performance motors have been battling this problem for awhile now. A street/strip motor that I built with my brother wasted the cam in 2 days. We did all of the proper break in techniques and it still went flat.
 
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Old Feb 21, 2007
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Originally Posted by Scott Gilbert
It wasn't Mobil 1 that caused your flat cam. All oils over the last 10 years have had to reduce zinc content due to the tree hugging environmentalists. Zinc is awesome for anti-scuff and reduces foaming under high RPM. Add that with poor metalugy in the casting of camshafts these days and cams go flat. People building performance motors have been battling this problem for awhile now. A street/strip motor that I built with my brother wasted the cam in 2 days. We did all of the proper break in techniques and it still went flat.
I know it wasn't the oil...might have been the lack of oil on that lobe....I dont know. It was an 85 Dodge Ram, and it had 60k miles on it when it happened.
 
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