2.9L & 3.0L V6 Tech General discussion of 2.9L and 3.0L V6 Ford Ranger engines.

1986 2.9 idle/stalling issue

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1986 2.9 idle/stalling issue

Hello all, hope it was a great Fourth of July for everyone.

My '86 Ranger has these new sensors and such: (6Kmiles) O2 sensor, TPS sensor, EGR valve, MAP sensor, IAC. Also, Distributor cap, rotor, wires, high-pressure fuel pump, fuel filter. Runs fine at cold idle, and when warms up... for a while. Then it runs a little rough. Was hoping that some gunk might be in the fuel tank, put in some Sea Foam this morning. A few days back I sprayed some carb cleaner in the plenum toward the IAC, and some of the problem had disappeared. What I've NOW got is this: After being on the highway at over 55 MPH, when I pull off the freeway or come to a stoplight, the truck will miss and die (at times). Does start, but takes some cranking. I was going to look at this, but what's been added to the mix is that I am losing a bit of power when I climb a hill. Now, I thought the engine might've been leaning out... and it was dying at idle, so this is what pulled me to the IAC first. But today after the power climb issue I had to pull some codes. I've pulled KOEO codes and got 67-O (this is a manual trans). The continuous code after the 10 pass code is 33-C. EGR issue and a power loss? HUH?

With all this stuff new, I'm not sure where to start. Can't find an obvious vacuum leak.

Any help or direction would be appreciated. Thanks in advance!

tony
 

Last edited by Tonystar1; 1 Week Ago at 05:26 PM.
  #2  
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It reads like TFI module issue if IAC Valve is off the table, especially the no start and lack of power when its hot after driving for awhile

How old is the TFI module?

In 1991 the 3.0l engines got remote mounted TFI modules which helped prevent this issue, the 2.9ls never got that option, lol

It could also be the Coil, although less likely, Coils can become heat sensitive, so run fine until they get warm, then start to act up, so similar to TFI module becoming heat sensitive

TFI info here: https://therangerstation.com/tech_li...agnostic.shtml
 
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Thanks Ron. I'll hit on the link. The distributor is less than a year old as is the module. Had the module tested early this year when I was dealing with putting in the long block and it tested okay. I do have an extra coil and will give that a look. I've also got an extra EGR solenoid. After I check out your link, I will make a plan. You see no reason to jump on the 33 trouble code?

As always, much appreciated.

tony
 
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33 ALL - (O, M) EGR did not open/ respond during test or if memory code, did not open intermittently

I don't think that would cause a running issue, could cause pinging/knocking under acceleration which you didn't mention

You can put a longer vacuum hose on EGR valve
Then while engine is idling suck on that hose to open EGR Valve, engine should start to stumble and eventually die if valve is open long enough
In 1986 there should be a sensor on the EGR Valve, that tells the computer if valve is opening and closing when it should, i.e. it "tests" the valve now and then
Yes the EGR solenoid is what computer uses to send Vacuum to the EGR Valve, so if its not working or vacuum hoses are cracked it could cause same code

EGR solenoid can be tested with 9volt battery, clicks open and closed when power is applied and removed, no polarity so no +/- sides to connector
You can use that longer vacuum hose to blow thru solenoid when testing, should pass air when open and not pass air when closed
 
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Thanks Ron.




Reviewed the link and learned more about the TFI.


This afternoon I swapped the coil with an extra that I had. Sucker wouldn't start. Charged the battery, and about an hour later, it started.


I've had distributor issues in the past with this truck, not sure how much of their issue was with the TFI. When I was much younger, some weird distributor issues back when they had points and condenser went something like... the car would run, sputter and die at idle. I went through that one twice in my life and made the right call by replacing those distributors. One was on a Slant 6 Mopar engine, the other was a Fiat 124 Sport.



This distributor is another O' Reilly replacement from about six or seven months ago. I'm already starting a small alternator collection thanks to their junk. What I've decided to do now (time constraints) is order a new one from Amazon, pull the old O'Reilly and test the resistance there. Maybe test the pins on the connector while it's off. If I can get lucky with a replacement form them, I'll drive it and keep the Amazon one as a spare. Yeah, I hate to be a parts collector, but I'm getting fried.


tony

 
  #6  
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I got the Amazon replacement yesterday. When I bought it the fit was checked and it was right. I received a unit that matches up with my previous O'Reilly one, except this module is black, not gray. I believe that makes a difference. I've installed it, and while the timing has to be nailed down, it seems funky. Any heads-up on if this "black" module is a waste of time?


Thanks

tony
 
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Must be be the Grey one, wiring is different

Seen here: https://www.stangnet.com/mustang-for...on-gif.535117/

Pin 4 on the grey is START, on black its IDM
No it won't work well
 
  #8  
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Thanks, Ron

The update is that, yes, it was the ignition module. I replaced it along with a new (Chinese) O'Reilly replacement distributor that came with a new rotor and cap. A few days back O'Reilly had replaced their other bad distributor with one that had stripped out threads for the cap. Too much...

Anyway, the truck is running very well, the power issue having been resolved, and I can tell by the exhaust that all cylinders are hitting fine. There is still a subtle stall issue, (coming down to idle after high rpm's) that I will have to dal with. I will approach it from the EGR solenoid point of view. (My high pressure fuel pump and gas filter have 6K on them).

Again, thanks for your help and patience on keeping this '86 on the road and working.

Tony
 
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Good work

Thanks for the update
 
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