1990 Ranger 2.9 V6 manual
1990 Ranger 2.9 V6 manual
Hello all
Was accelerating out from a stop sign and truck then shut completely down like the key was shut off. It now cranks but won't fire.
Started at the coil and replaced that. Then replaced the distributor cap and rotor and nothing. Then replaced the ignition module and still no luck. Just bought a brand new distributor to put in but wondering if anyone has had the same problem or anything to help. Seems like just throwing money at it without anything fixing it. Thanks for any help!
Was accelerating out from a stop sign and truck then shut completely down like the key was shut off. It now cranks but won't fire.
Started at the coil and replaced that. Then replaced the distributor cap and rotor and nothing. Then replaced the ignition module and still no luck. Just bought a brand new distributor to put in but wondering if anyone has had the same problem or anything to help. Seems like just throwing money at it without anything fixing it. Thanks for any help!
Welcome to the forum
First thing you should do on any engine that has a "crank but no start" is the 50/50 test
Spray Ether(quick start) or gasoline into the engine and crank it
If it starts and then dies spark and timing is OK but fuel system isn't working
If it doesn't start then spark or compression is the issue
50/50 instant results
There is no reliable way to test for spark on newer engines, and fuel pressure doesn't mean fuel is getting INTO the engine
50/50 test does it all, as NIKE says "just do it"
A few things that can cause what you describe, loss of 12volts to engine systems, spark and/or injectors, can be fuse or ignition switch under steering column
Test for 12v with key on at Coil
Test for 12v at any one injector, the red wire, they all get 12v with key on, the computer Grounds an injector to open it
In 1990 2.9l the spark system is not dependent on computer for start up, its independent
Computer runs the fuel system, i.e. pump and injectors
After start up computer "suggests" changes in spark advance because it has access to engine LOAD, like Vacuum Advance did in the "old days", but startup is independent
First thing you should do on any engine that has a "crank but no start" is the 50/50 test
Spray Ether(quick start) or gasoline into the engine and crank it
If it starts and then dies spark and timing is OK but fuel system isn't working
If it doesn't start then spark or compression is the issue
50/50 instant results
There is no reliable way to test for spark on newer engines, and fuel pressure doesn't mean fuel is getting INTO the engine
50/50 test does it all, as NIKE says "just do it"
A few things that can cause what you describe, loss of 12volts to engine systems, spark and/or injectors, can be fuse or ignition switch under steering column
Test for 12v with key on at Coil
Test for 12v at any one injector, the red wire, they all get 12v with key on, the computer Grounds an injector to open it
In 1990 2.9l the spark system is not dependent on computer for start up, its independent
Computer runs the fuel system, i.e. pump and injectors
After start up computer "suggests" changes in spark advance because it has access to engine LOAD, like Vacuum Advance did in the "old days", but startup is independent
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
bander24
Member Introductions
2
Jun 24, 2017 05:12 AM



