1996 ranger 3.0l 2wd transmission swap
#1
1996 ranger 3.0l 2wd transmission swap
hi there, i am about to be switching the automatic transmission in my 2wd ranger and i'm looking for tip and info on how to do this. do i have to put the torque converter on the transmission and line it up? i read it has to drop into place three times, or is it easier to attach it to the flywheel first? anytips and suggestion will be greatly appreciated
#2
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First NEVER attach torque converter to flexplate first, NEVER EVER!!!
(flywheel is for manual/clutch, flexplate is used on automatic)
Yes, the torque converter goes on to transmission before installing in vehicle, it runs the front pump(main pump) in an automatic transmission.
So you put the torque converter on to the input shaft and push it in towards transmission, after it stops, rotate torque converter while pushing in, not hard, you will feel it side in a bit more each time it latches on to front pump tabs, sometimes it will slide in 2 or 3 times.
Continue rotating until it won't slide in any more.
When you install the transmission it should bolt up to the engine and be flush, you may need to wiggle it a bit but never use the bolts to force it into place, something is wrong if you feel you need to do that.
The torque converter will then slide forward a 1/2" or so to bolt up to the flexplate.
You have to rotate the crankshaft/flexplate to install all the torque converter bolts, so remove spark plugs from engine to make that easier.
Get all the bolts in but not tight first, then tighten them.
My first automatic install went sideways on me, I did put torque converter on flexplate and then installed trans, BIG OOPS, had to force trans in and used the bolts to snug it up.
Got it all back together, started it up, put it in gear and nothing, WTF!
No forward, no reverse???
I had broken the front pump by forcing torque converter into trans, no pump, no pressure, no go!
And it requires a complete rebuild to replace the pump, expensive lesson.
(flywheel is for manual/clutch, flexplate is used on automatic)
Yes, the torque converter goes on to transmission before installing in vehicle, it runs the front pump(main pump) in an automatic transmission.
So you put the torque converter on to the input shaft and push it in towards transmission, after it stops, rotate torque converter while pushing in, not hard, you will feel it side in a bit more each time it latches on to front pump tabs, sometimes it will slide in 2 or 3 times.
Continue rotating until it won't slide in any more.
When you install the transmission it should bolt up to the engine and be flush, you may need to wiggle it a bit but never use the bolts to force it into place, something is wrong if you feel you need to do that.
The torque converter will then slide forward a 1/2" or so to bolt up to the flexplate.
You have to rotate the crankshaft/flexplate to install all the torque converter bolts, so remove spark plugs from engine to make that easier.
Get all the bolts in but not tight first, then tighten them.
My first automatic install went sideways on me, I did put torque converter on flexplate and then installed trans, BIG OOPS, had to force trans in and used the bolts to snug it up.
Got it all back together, started it up, put it in gear and nothing, WTF!
No forward, no reverse???
I had broken the front pump by forcing torque converter into trans, no pump, no pressure, no go!
And it requires a complete rebuild to replace the pump, expensive lesson.
#4
RF Veteran
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Remove spark plugs
Wheels blocked
Trans in neutral
You can use a socket on the crank pulley bolt to turn crank, if spark plugs are removed.
And there are flexplate wrenches that grip the ring gear(starter motor gear) to give you leverage to turn the flexplate, but unless you do this type of thing all the time it isn't really needed.
Google: flexplate wrench
Wheels blocked
Trans in neutral
You can use a socket on the crank pulley bolt to turn crank, if spark plugs are removed.
And there are flexplate wrenches that grip the ring gear(starter motor gear) to give you leverage to turn the flexplate, but unless you do this type of thing all the time it isn't really needed.
Google: flexplate wrench
#5
Update on trans! Got everything up to removing the crossbar that the transmission sit on done just got a sealed bolt! Fixing that part tonight! And all electrical is disconnected. My concern is one I remove the bottom four bolts and the coolant lines how do I get to the top two remaining bolts on the transmission mission?
#6
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#8
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Swivel ratchet wrench can come in handy.
Short socket on bolt and swivel ratchet from the top side can work because it can be angled away from firewall and get around tube.
Now you do want to have some of the easier bolts to get to installed and tight before pulling the upper bolts out, they should be removed first, then remove the easy ones
Short socket on bolt and swivel ratchet from the top side can work because it can be angled away from firewall and get around tube.
Now you do want to have some of the easier bolts to get to installed and tight before pulling the upper bolts out, they should be removed first, then remove the easy ones
#9
#11
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#13
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