Battery is good, alternator is new. Was cranking but not starting. New starter, now no power at all. Went to jump, starter whirring as soon as I touched the cables to Battery. No key in the ignition. Any suggestions. Assuming new starter is bad.


Ok starter good battery good alternator good. fuses and relay good . Now it cranks no start.

 

Welcome to the forum

On the dash is the CEL(check engine light) and the Anti-Theft light
The CEL should come on when you turn the key ON, this means the Computer has Booted up
And the CEL should go OFF as soon as starter motor is activated and engine starts to spin, this means Computer is getting a Timing Pulse so will start Spark and fuel injectors

Anti-theft light should come on with key ON, and then go OFF
If it Flashes rapidly then engine can not be started, if you leave the key on for 45-60seconds the light will start to flash a Code, 11 to 16, so a 1 then pause, then 1 to 6 fast flashes, longer pause, then it repeats a few times
The Code tells you why you can't start the engine

If neither of these fit, then you need to do the 50/50 test to see if the No Start is Spark or Fuel related
50/50 test
Open the hood and pull off the larger air tube from the upper intake manifold, you can leave it off for the test, make sure fan can't hit it
Open throttle manually and spray gasoline, quick start(ether), carb cleaner, ect....."fuel" into the engine
Try to start engine
If it starts and then dies, Spark is good, fuel delivery is the issue
If it doesn't start, then Spark is the issue
50/50 instant results

 

Did the 50/50. Ran real rough for a few seconds then died. Sorry for the delay. Been working to much to mess with it until today.

 

Good, at least you have some spark and compression, so you know its a fuel issue

Have you done any work on the Coil Pack or spark plug wires since this happened?

It reads like there is no gasoline at the engine, there is a "fuel rail" that feeds gas to each injector, there is a Fuel Pressure Test port on the fuel rail, usually on passenger side
It looks like a tires Air Valve, can even have same cap on it
Remove cap
Works the same as a tire's air valve, push the center pin to release pressure, but be careful, should be gasoline with 50psi pressure inside
If no pressure then most likely the fuel pump is not working
Cycle key on and off 3 times
Then check again for pressure/fuel at the test port
If still none then fuel pump is not working

In a 2001 open engine fuse box and check fuse #23 that's the fuel pump fuse
There is also a Fuel pump relay in that fuse box, pull it out and look at the tabs for corrosion

In the passenger side of the cab behind glove box on firewall is the inertia switch, it has a red button on the top, push it down, if it doesn't move then its OK not "popped"
Inertia switch looks like this: https://qph.fs.quoracdn.net/main-qim...77da1c87a51ce6

If these all these check out as OK, then fuel pump is the issue, have to lift or move the bed off/back to get to top of gas tank to change it

Its possible the fuel filter is clogged, unlikely but possible, because it would have to be completely clogged and that doesn't "just happen" one day, its a slow process, you should change the filter in any case if you put in a new fuel pump

 

0 fuel pressure. Was planning on changing out fuel pump in the morning. I'll check the Inertia switch before I do.

 

Thanks for all your help. She's up and running.

 

Good work

Thanks for the update and THE FIX, it WILL help someone else down the road

 

Switch was good. Ended up being the fuel pump

 

Thanks for sharing the end result was the fuel pump.