2004 3.0 with 133,555 has hot soak no start condition,
So far I replace the original fuel filter, I just bought private owner
Starts up just fine when cold and will run all day. But when running one or two errands you rest assured of a no start.
Yesterday after letting it sit overnight and attempting to start for the first time in the heat of the day it did not start (for the very first time).
I then checked and jumped the inertia switch thinking it might be due t the cab being hot and thus creating a switch to swell...
Went back after the sun went down and the temps cooled off and it started first swing. restarted fine this am drove my wife to school after 30 or so miles, shut it down attempted restart with no results. Also to add usually if sits about an hour most times it will start.
I considered a fuel pump, however it starts fine cold, will run all day with no stalling issues. I did want to throw this out there, is it possible that the pats system is shutting down the fuel? I also checked to make sure the eec relay and fuel pump relay are coming online and the fuel rely comes for 2 seconds and then shuts off.
Being on disability money is an issue only if it gets really expensive.
I appreciate any feed back.

 

Welcome to the forum

With a Crank but No Start, I would do a 50/50 test to narrow it down to fuel or spark, and then go from there

50/50 test
Get some Quick Start(ether in a spray can)
Locate the power brake vacuum hose, usually easy to find on the power brake booster
See what tool is needed to remove the hose from the booster, pliers or maybe a screw driver for hose clamp
Remove that hose so you know what to do for the test, then put it back on

Warm engine up and shut it off, then try to restart, confirm it doesn't start
Open hood remove vacuum hose and spray Quick start into the hose end
Replace hose
Try to start
If it starts and then dies, Fuel is the problem
If it doesn't start then Spark is the problem
50/50


Fuel injection runs higher pressure in the fuel lines, so does suffer from "vapor lock" which could happen in hot weather on carbureted engines.
But electrical components and connections can have issues with heat


PATS is only used with Key on, computer either gets the OK code to start fuel pump and injectors or it doesn't and Flashes Theft Light rapidly
So once computer gets the OK code, PATS can't disable the computer until it is rebooted.

 

when there is no start there is air in the schrader valve with spurts of fuel,
Strange that air would feel pressurized,
Today after letting it st i did koer three times in a row, and the third the engine ran sluggishly, turned it back off and then it ran fine.
just more to report/
BTW this never leaves a code, and that is hard to imagine. no ckt codes or lean drive codes. truly intermittent
Wonder if the filter sock on the bottom of the pump has fallen/rotted off and then clogs the pump?

 

Low fuel flow like dirty filter or "sock on pump" usually shows up during higher fuel demand, i.e highway speeds or driving uphill, but engine would start and idle OK

You could have leaking injector that is flooding engine just after shutting it off, so takes awhile for fuel to evaporate and restart is possible.

All fuel injection computers have Clear Flooded Engine routine
Key on
Press gas pedal down to the floor all the way and HOLD it down
Crank engine
Engine should NOT start, it should NOT fire at all, computer has turned off fuel injectors but spark is still on

This will dry out a Flooded engine, with throttle wide open(WOT) the air flow can dry out leaked gasoline
If engine fires then you may indeed have leaking injector, mileage(MPG) would be really low with leaking injector

As soon as you release gas pedal computer will start injectors, even if still cranking engine

You 2004 Ranger will run 60psi fuel pressure at the engine, 55-60psi with engine running
With engine off that pressure should stay above 35psi for a few MONTHS, not minutes, days or weeks, MONTHS
See if you can get or rent a fuel pressure gauge.

When you cycle the key on one time you get about 10-15psi pressure, the 2 second run time, which is just enough to start a cold engine, maybe, really should have about 30psi
Once RPMs are above 400 computer will run fuel pump full time.
If engine is already flooded then it would get even more flooded by 2 second run time

 

That is an interesting idea, because on a couple of occasions the engine sounded peculiar after it got running, like a slight tapping. Very uncharacteristic of that vulcan engine.
I suppose I could unplug each injector but it would certainly be trial by error.

 

Unplugging injector wouldn't work, a leaking injector leaks when its already off(unplugged) thats the problem with it

 

well whats the solution?
So is this just replace all injectors like a shotgun blast on a guess?

 

You could also send out the injectors to be tested, cleaned and balanced. There are a lot of reputable places that will do that for not too much money.

 

Ron....Do you have proof of this statement 35 psi for months weeks?? (the fuel pump has a ball bearing and spring to stop the return flow).....not what the manufacturer says..
You 2004 Ranger will run 60psi fuel pressure at the engine, 55-60psi with engine running
With engine off that pressure should stay above 35psi for a few MONTHS, not minutes, days or weeks, MONTHS
See if you can get or rent a fuel pressure gauge.

 

Solution is to do 50/50 test and see if its spark or fuel problem, first, then speculate on solution after that

 

Fuel pumps just have a plastic flap(check valve) as far as I know, but a ball and spring would work better just more expensive, flap is pushed open when pump is on and closes when pump is off, this prevents back flow into the tank
Later models also use 3 hose fuel filters, in from pump, out to engine, and then a Return line to gas tank, it had a 65psi rated valve to prevent over pressure in the system, but it can also fail OPEN so pressure can't be maintained.

Not sure what proof I could provide, pretty much all fuel injection systems maintain pressure at the fuel rail with key off, this prevents issues with fuel degrading and clogging injectors if vehicle should sit for many many months and its free to do so why not :)
Any of the systems I have tested maintain fuel pressure, key off, unless there was a problem, but I haven't tested every make and model, lol.

Most manufacturers also specify to "release fuel pressure" when changing filter or working on fuel system, i.e. pull fuel pump fuse and crank/start engine or drain pressure from pressure test port on fuel rail

 

completely cold
KOEO 60psi no leakdown
Koer 65 psi
Sitting now running attempting to get it hot.
Keep yall posted. I see these threads are usually started but not finished with a repair or fix or cause, being an ex tech I aim change that.

 

well looks like fuel pump verified, after running for thirty minutes then restarting three times, fuel pressure fell off to twenty, I then drained some fuel into a spray bottle squirted into TB and had restart.
Cycling key produced two second delay from relay with no fuel pressure at gauge, or sounds from pump.
Time to remove bed and proceed in driveway.

 

Good work

Depending on your rear bumper setup you can often just loosen the rear 2 bed bolts and lift the front of the bed up to get access to the fuel pump, then you can leave the tail light wires in place.
You need enough room to lift fuel pump assembly straight up so give yourself enough room