So far I have tried replacing ignition coil, plugs, wires, crank sensor, fuel pump, fuel filter, checked relays and still nothing. Just crank no start. Tried disconnecting battery for a while too just to see if that would help. I'm at a total loss with this could someone please give me a point in the right direction? Thanks in advance!

 

STOP

Replacing things

Fuel filter, spark plugs and plugs wires are fine, the rest was a waste of money without testing.

Your 2.3l is a Duratec DOHC so has a timing chain not a timing belt so that shouldn't be the problem.

You need 3 things for an engine to start.
1. compression, above 120psi, yours should be over 160psi
2. fuel, in the right mix
3. spark, at the right time.

Easiest thing to do when an engine doesn't start is to add fuel manually and try starting.
If it doesn't fire up then compression or spark is the issue.
If it fires up then dies fuel is the issue.

I use starting fluid(ether in a spray can), remove Power brake vacuum hose from intake, or PCV valve hose, which ever is easier to use, pour in some gas or spray in some starting fluid, put hose back on and try to start.


Compression can be tested just by removing a spark plug, crank engine when it is out and you will hear a loud 'whooosh' of air coming out that hole.

You should have a spark tester or better yet an old style timing light($5 at garage sale), hook it up to #1 spark plug wire crank engine and see if you get spark when TDC mark is near 0.


2004 Ranger with 2.3l should have a type E PATS
These have a starter interrupt if wrong PATS key is used, or if PATS key is bad.
So I would assume PATS is not the issue, but................PATS does disable the injectors if Key doesn't pass the test.
You would also get a flashing indicator if PATS failed

 

I really appreciate the advice. In the am I will give it a shot. But you have "sparked" my interest no pun intended, about the pats key. Is it a common problem for those to just, go bad? I've only recently obtained this truck and it started out with misfire issues so I replaced coil and plugs with wires and it ran and started fine. Then one day it just wouldn't start. Checked fuel pressure at the rail and only had 25psi. So that's why I replaced fuel pump thinking that would solve the issue and while I was at it I went ahead and put a new fuel filter in too. But neither did the trick. Oh and also I checked for compression after all of this and when I removed spark plug it was fuel soaked which leads me to believe there is fuel getting into the motor, no? Let me know if any of this information helps in aiding me with this issue. Thanks again!

 

25psi would mean pump was working, just not able to hold pressure, what is the pressure now and does it hold above 55psi after engine/key is shut off?
Running pressure should be approx. 65psi

Fuel system should hold pressure for a few months at least.
On an '04 there is a Pulse Damper on the end of the fuel rail, it will have a vacuum line attached, it is a rubber diaphragm that absorbs the pulse waves generated by the fuel injectors opening and closing, if this should leak the vacuum hose is there to suck fuel into the intake instead of it dripping on hot engine or exhaust parts, a bad thing, lol.
But if it was leaking you would lose fuel pressure and have rough running, also lower MPG.
Check vacuum hose for fuel or fuel smell, and with engine cold remove the vacuum hose from Damper turn on key, fuel pump will run for 2 second, turn off key then turn it on again, now check if any fuel has come out of Damper.

The other pressure "holder" is the check valve in the fuel pump, and this could have been bad on your old one, it basically just allows fuel to go out of the pump and not come back in, so when pump is off valve is closed and system holds pressure.

And outside of a fuel line leak, which you should smell, the only other parts that can leak pressure are the fuel injectors.

There is a trick to test those.
All fuel injected computers have a Clear Flooded Engine mode.
Key on
Press gas pedal to the floor and hold it down, this tells computer to turn OFF fuel injectors to clear flooded engine.
Now try to start engine
It should not start or even fire
If it does fire then an injector is leaking fuel.

This made me think of another members problem with a no start.
The way the above test work is that when key is on, engine off, and computer see above 4.5volts from the TPS(throttle position sensor), gas pedal to the floor, it will shut off fuel injectors.
The member has a bad TPS sensor that was sending 4.8volts to computer all the time, so fuel injectors were shut off all the time.
When he unplugged TPS engine would start.
Since you saw fuel on the spark plugs I doubt that would be your problem.

 

I appreciate the advice I really do thank you I will try some of these things and get back to you about it. But one quick question. If the key is bad will the truck still crank? And does the security light flash on the dash all the time? Even when key is not in the ignition and doors are closed? I don't remember if it did that before these issues occurred. Thanks again!

 

Type E PATS shouldn't crank, but 2.3l model could be different than 3.0l/4.0l

I believe PATS light will flash rapidly if wrong key or broken key is used.
Slow flash is normal.

PATS just disables the fuel supply, there should still be spark, so if you manually add fuel and it starts and then dies it could be PATS issue, if it still doesn't fire then it isn't

 

Ok a lot of information to process lol I did try the manually spraying starting fluid through intake and it ran momentarily then died out. Not sure what else to do with it now haha. No difference in fuel pressure either by the way. Still 65 psi.

 

If it started by manually adding fuel then fuel system is the culprit, don't waste time on anything else.
Compression is good and spark is good.

Unplug the TPS(throttle position sensor), and try to start, replace TPS if it starts, do NOT replace TPS if it doesn't start

Take PATS key to auto parts store or locksmith, most have an RFID tester, it tells you if the key is transmitting a PATS ID, and if it is a weak signal.
Locksmith can Clone a PATS key if needed.

 

Ok tried tps and it didn't start and I had key checked. It came up with a signal. Any other suggestions? I honestly really do appreciate the help here this has been great.

 

Then you are down to computer.

There are testers called Noid Lights, you can rent them, they plug in between fuel injector and it's connector, they flash if computer is "firing"(opening) the injector.
You really only need one in your case, 4 would be used if you thought 1 injector wasn't working.

If noid light doesn't flash while cranking engine the computer is not opening injectors.
You kind of already know this since manually adding fuel will get engine to start, and you have fuel pressure at the injectors.

Clear flooded engine routine or PATS failure or computer failure would cause no injector pulse, but spark would still work.
Failed CKP sensor would cause no spark on injector
Failed CPS would cause Batch fire injection

 

Hey thank you I'm sorry it took so long to get back to you. But ive been really busy. Just checked the injector with noid light and it flashes when I crank it. Does this mean it is the cam position sensor? Because I've already replaced the crank sensor.

 

Noid light flashing mean computer is Grounding(opening) the injector as it should.
So CKP sensor(crank) and CPS(cam sensor) are working as they should.

 

Oh ok so what does this mean?

 

It means the injector is opening and if there is fuel pressure, fuel is coming into engine.

So I would say it isn't a PATS issue.

 

Well that's good at least. So does this leave me with the computer being the issue? Such as the pcm?

 

Oh and something else I realized. The radio doesn't work either. And when you turn key on it had 6 chimes then a different longer tone at the end. Could this be linked in any way do you think?

 

Computer is the PCM(powertrain control module), also called ECU and EEC.

PCM on an '04 runs spark, fuel and transmission if automatic, has since 1995 models.
Things like TPS, CKP, CPS, MAF, IAT, ECT and O2 are sensors that feed the PCM the data it needs to run the engine and trans correctly.
If any of these sensors fail it wouldn't cause a No Start, exception is CKP(crank position) sensor, you would have no spark and no fuel, but these rarely fail.

IAC and EGR, are Controls the PCM uses to run engine correctly.

From what you have posted:
Engine starts if you add fuel to the intake, but dies soon after starting

This would be a fuel issue 99% of the time, either low or no fuel pressure or no fuel injectors.
You said the fuel pressure was 25psi, then said it was 65psi, it should be 65psi, so still unclear on that.

You said Noid Light hooked to a fuel injector pulsed when cranking that means PCM is running the injectors.

So one of these is incorrect, or you are skipping or forgetting something.

 

THANK YOU. Jesus, I've been fighting with my turbo build over starting up with that same issue for a few weeks now, swapped on a junkyard Duratec throttle body and turns out the TPS was junk. Was really worried that it was my Quarterhorse, because after plugging it in, the pump never shut off and "FUEL RESET" wouldn't come up. Dunno if the two are related, but everything works fine now, thanks again man!

 

Check the temperature sending sensor. A defective one will make the pcu think your overheating and stop the ignition.Youtube has several examples.
On my 89 ranger 2.3l it is under the intake manifold. I removed the alternator for ease of access and moved wiring down to get it out with a 19mm 12 point deep socke wrench. The plug should have a 5v and ground and the sensor should read between about .5 to 3.0 at 200k ohms in cold and hot water. Mine had a high reading od 32 at room temp and was bad. Hot water makes the ohms resistance drop and cold makes it rise. Motorcraft sending unit is about $50 at Oreiles.Hope this helps.