2000 4.0 cranks no start - Ranger-Forums - The Ultimate Ford Ranger Resource


4.0L OHV & SOHC V6 Tech General discussion of 4.0L OHV and SOHC V6 Ford Ranger engines.

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Old 07-21-2014
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2000 4.0 cranks no start

I have a 2000 4.0 4x4 that cranks wont start, I have replaced starter, cam position sensor on back of the motor, fuel pump, fuel filter, plugs are only 2 months old. sometimes i can smell fuel from from seems like if coming from the area around the fuel filter. before this when i started it it was act kinda flooded and after a few seconds if would come out of it and get to normal idle. It didnt flash a code on a code reader. I am stumped plz help


thanks

shaun Moore
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Old 07-21-2014
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You have replaced alot of stuff..........STOP THAT, lol.

Fuel filter replacement was fine that is just general maintenance, like air filter or oil change.
The rest.........well stop that.

When it was starting you said it acted like it was flooded, so it would blow out black smoke at the tail pipe for a few seconds before it idled normally?

I would borrow or rent a Fuel Pressure Gauge, this will screw on to the Schrader valve(looks like a tire air valve) on the fuel rail(where fuel injectors are).
'00 should average 65psi of fuel pressure.
After screwing on the gauge see what it says, write it down, even if it is 0
Turn on the key but do not crank engine, see what gauge says, write it down

Turn key off, then on again, see what gauge says

The computer runs the fuel pump for 2 seconds each time the key is turned on, this is why the on/off/on test.

If you have a leaking fuel injector your pressure will be 0psi after engine sits a bit, and it will be flooded, cycling the key on/off a few times should build up the fuel pressure, that's what you are looking for, if pressure is dropping with engine off then you do have a leak, could be injector but could be by the fuel filter if you smell gas there.

If you don't hear the fuel pump running for 2 seconds each time key is turned on then Fuel pump(FP) Relay may be the problem, it is in the Power Box in the engine compartment, there should be 2 relays that click when key is turned on, the EEC Relay and the FP relay, EEC relay will stay on, FP relay will click open after 2 seconds.

Spark, have you tried to test the spark?
Get an old spark plug and connect it to one of the engines spark plug wires.
I use a battery jumper cable to hold and ground the spark plug, but you can just lay the spark plug on engine so it is grounded, unpainted metal surface, then crank engine while you watch for bright spark at the plug.
If there is no spark I would look at the coil connector, there are 4 wires, one will be the 12volt wire, I would invest $25 in a volt/ohm meter to test if there is 12volts(battery voltage) at the coil.
The CKP(crank position) sensor on the main pulley tells the computer when to spark each plug, but this sensor will cause CEL(check engine light) if it fails, so long shot that it would be the no spark issue if there are no codes in memory.
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Old 07-21-2014
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I checked pressure at the schrader valve before the fuel pump after the filter. at first i had 0, after about 6 or 8 times of cycling the key i had about 40 psi. i stopped there thinking it had to be the pump. didnt remember losing any pressure when the key was off though.
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Old 07-21-2014
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test it again

Also at the end of the fuel rail will be the Pulse Damper, it will have a vacuum hose attached.
Remove this vacuum hose and check it for fuel or fuel smell.

The Damper helps absorb pressure pulses from fuel pump turning on and off and injectors opening and closing, it is a rubber diaphragm.
To prevent a possible fire if diaphragm leaked, the vacuum hose is there to suck or drain any leaking fuel into the intake.
So if there is fuel in that hose you will need to replace Pulse Damper.
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Old 07-21-2014
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ok i will check that out right now thanks
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Old 07-21-2014
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it wasnt the pulse damper, no fiuel smell or sign of fuel there, gonna test the coil tommorow morning
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