3.0 random engine knock - Page 2 - Ranger-Forums - The Ultimate Ford Ranger Resource


2.9L & 3.0L V6 Tech General discussion of 2.9L and 3.0L V6 Ford Ranger engines.

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  #26  
Old 11-13-2014
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Bummer on the oil pressure.

Ford has used a "switch" for oil pressure gauge since the mid-'80s
Gauge either reads 0 or 1/2, switch off, switch on
The sender is set for 6psi of pressure, below 6psi gauge is not grounded, gauge 0 and oil light on, above 6psi switch grounds the gauge and 1/2 shows up.

Any movement of the gauge needle would be electrical changes, not oil pressure, with the exception of 0, which means below 6psi.

What viscosity oil are you running?
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  #27  
Old 11-14-2014
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I used 5-20 valvoline just because I wanted no issues with oil getting to everything quickly while all the parts were breaking in. I wonder if that is too thin.... I did notice when i primed the motor it took a while to get oil out of all the oil lifter pushrods... my old 460 had oil pressure within a few turns.. not this thing... but I put oil in the pump before installing it.. oil in the filter before installing it, and then primed the motor before installing. guess its checking with a mechanical gauge after work.... maybe thicker oil after taking it to Richmond for a 110 mile breakin.
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  #28  
Old 11-14-2014
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started the truck today to drive to work.. maybe two miles, the oil pressure never dropped out..even at idle.. guess the oil was thicker due to being cold.. so I will change the oil to I guess 10-30 and see if that helps with the issue. I am sure the lower RPM from the lite miss isnt helping with the speed of the pump being slower than normal...looks to idle about 5-600 rpm in park.
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  #29  
Old 11-14-2014
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The idle RPM is set by the computer, target idles are 1,100 cold and 700 warm(800 automatic)
Computer should open IAC Valve more to meet target RPMs, so low idle RPM has another issue, other than a miss.

With the "rule of thumb": oil pressure is 10psi per 1,000 RPMs
The 500-600 RPM would = 5-6psi
Ford Oil pressure switch(sender) is set for 6psi, so yes at that low of an RPM range the switch could be switching off and on, the SAE 20 viscosity would make it more likely.
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  #30  
Old 11-14-2014
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took truck back too shop after work..still no codes...pulled upper intake off...before doing that i drained the pressure...alot of pressure...waied a few sec..more fuel...few more sec still fuel seeping from test port...unbolted the fuel rail and tried the test port again an fuel sprayed about a ft up... key is off an is in my pocket...how the hell is it still building pressure?!?! took neg off battery and drained pressure off fast an then pulled injectors...watched onine bout cleaning injectors in ultrasonic bath.. so I did that for an hr or so. I will try the injectors again tomorrow after I back flush them and see what happens...
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  #31  
Old 11-15-2014
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Did you take the gas cap off?

Could of had some residual pressure in the fuel tank.
There should be 60psi of pressure to start with so it take a bit for it to equalize, i.e. 30psi in a tire, takes awhile to deflate.
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  #32  
Old 11-15-2014
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RonD View Post
Did you take the gas cap off?

Could of had some residual pressure in the fuel tank.
There should be 60psi of pressure to start with so it take a bit for it to equalize, i.e. 30psi in a tire, takes awhile to deflate.
Well I ultrasonic cleaned the injectors last night..then flushed and back flushed them.. installed them and miss is gone. Drove the 120 miles to Richmond without a hickup.
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  #33  
Old 11-15-2014
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Good work
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  #34  
Old 11-17-2014
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Woohoo! Now you can enjoy that truck for a long, long time!
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  #35  
Old 11-17-2014
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Yes Sir, trip up was fine, showed it to the wife for the first time... she had no idea I had it let alone was building it... but she is fine with it cause now she knows I wont either be filling up my expedition with gas all the time during the winter mnths... and wont be riding my motorcycle in freezing weather trying to save gas $. I do have a belt squeak.. and a little stumble/hickup when under a hard acceleration...sorta feels like it is coughing.. I know for a fact the timing chain is spot on, but as for the cam sensor.. is there a way to adjust the timing on these motors??

Also.. when I filled the truck with gas it only took 11 gal.. so it's got the small tank..what should I expect to see as far a MPG or miles per tank range? it is an 03, 3.0 auto swb 2wd...all stock except for the new engine.(new plugs, old wires, old coil, cleaned IAC and TB, cleaned injectors) Should the mileage get better as the motor breakes in? I noticed I got about 120 on 1/2 tank on the way to va beach from Richmond...lite rain and @60-65 average speed..tailgate up and the old engine short block in the bed..a/c not on.
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  #36  
Old 11-17-2014
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These 3.0's are not known for their MPG...from all the threads I've read on them, they average anywhere from 13 to maybe 17 without a load.

Maybe others are doing better, but I see around 16 with mine in 2 wheel drive, Extended cab, and my gearing is 4:10.
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  #37  
Old 11-17-2014
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inspected

Quote:
Originally Posted by bucko View Post
These 3.0's are not known for their MPG...from all the threads I've read on them, they average anywhere from 13 to maybe 17 without a load.

Maybe others are doing better, but I see around 16 with mine in 2 wheel drive, Extended cab, and my gearing is 4:10.
Got truck inspected today..needed plate bulbs.. getting #1 misfire..not sure why yet..still checking on timing adjustment.
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  #38  
Old 11-25-2014
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https://www.facebook.com/#!/photo.ph...type=1&theater

so far pulling 19 mpg during motor break in toting the old motor in the back.
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