2.9L & 3.0L V6 Tech General discussion of 2.9L and 3.0L V6 Ford Ranger engines.

91 Ranger 3.0 Fuse box Diagram ( Readible)

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Old Nov 12, 2019
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From: Princeville,NC
91 Ranger 3.0 Fuse box Diagram ( Readible)

Hello..I'm looking for a close picture of a under dash fuse box for 91 Ranger XLT 3.0...Trying to locate my heater fuse location..My heater fan has stopped blowing..It used to blow just on high, as I know I probably needed a resistor. Now it's not blowing at all...Thanks...
 
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Old Nov 12, 2019
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Welcome to the forum

It should be the only 30amp fuse in the cab fuse box, light green just below Flasher

Just a heads up about the blower fan

The blower motor always has 12volts from that fuse, all Fords are like this

The cab speed control is the GROUND for the blower motor
HIGH by-passes the resistor block in the engine bay, so blower gets direct ground from cab switch
Lower speeds go thru the resistor block in engine bay

So yes, could be a blown 30amp fuse, but could be cab Ground for the speed control as well
 
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Old Nov 12, 2019
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From: Princeville,NC
Originally Posted by RonD
Welcome to the forum

It should be the only 30amp fuse in the cab fuse box, light green just below Flasher

Just a heads up about the blower fan

The blower motor always has 12volts from that fuse, all Fords are like this

The cab speed control is the GROUND for the blower motor
HIGH by-passes the resistor block in the engine bay, so blower gets direct ground from cab switch
Lower speeds go thru the resistor block in engine bay

So yes, could be a blown 30amp fuse, but could be cab Ground for the speed control as well
Hey RonD..Thanks alot for your reply and link..!..So, could it be that the resistor has completely worn out causing the fan to not blow at all now other than the ground..?
 
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Old Nov 13, 2019
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No, the HIGH speed is a separate wire that by-pass the resistors BUT.............it is often in that same connector in the engine bay, and these connectors often get corroded

Unplug connector and have a look, also pull out the resistor block, and have a look

Resistor blocks are often sold WITH a new connector and wires that you splice into your wiring

If you have 4 wires on the resistor block then the HIGH speed wire is not there, its a separate splice
If there are 5 wires then its there
 

Last edited by RonD; Nov 13, 2019 at 11:59 AM.
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Old Nov 13, 2019
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Originally Posted by RonD
No, the HIGH speed is a separate wire that by-pass the resistors BUT.............it is often in that same connector in the engine bay, and these connectors often get corroded

Unplug connector and have a look, also pull out the resistor block, and have a look

Resistor blocks are often sold WITH a new connector and wires that you splice into your wiring

If you have 4 wires on the resistor block then the HIGH speed wire is not there, its a separate splice
If there are 5 wires then its there
Hey RonD..Ok, I have a green wire hooked up to a connector in the fuse panel..There is a brown wire that's disconnected ( just hanging )..Is it supposed to be hooked to something on the panel, or is it something completely different.?
 
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Old Nov 13, 2019
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I show a Brown/orange stripe wire for the Blower motor from 30amp fuse

I have a plain brown wire from fuse panel to Main Light switch, and then brown wire from light switch to all parking lights

No green wires for heater

And no plain green for fuse box, unless its Dark green, but not blower or heat related
 
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Old Nov 20, 2019
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Hello..Still trying to get this going..I replaced the resistor and fuse ( 30 amp ), but still no blowing yet..As I look into the fuse panel, there is a green wire and a brown wire with a connector on each one's end..The green one is connected to a terminal in the panel..The brown one is just hanging..Thing is, when I see pictures of panels, none show a wire connected in the panel box....The truck set up for a while as I had to have the freeze plugs replaced but the heater was blowing then. Only on high setting tho'..So I know it needed the resistor replacement..
 
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Old Nov 21, 2019
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Brown WITH Orange stripe wire is for heater blower, not plain brown, the stripes are important to ID wires

I would use sewing pins to pierce the wires at the blower motor, and use a Volt meter, or test light to see if its getting the 12volts, key on/High speed
It could be the blower motor has failed just using HIGH speed for.............??? long, it is almost 30 years old

 
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Old Nov 21, 2019
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From: Princeville,NC
Originally Posted by RonD
Brown WITH Orange stripe wire is for heater blower, not plain brown, the stripes are important to ID wires

I would use sewing pins to pierce the wires at the blower motor, and use a Volt meter, or test light to see if its getting the 12volts, key on/High speed
It could be the blower motor has failed just using HIGH speed for.............??? long, it is almost 30 years old
Hey RonD..Thanks for the reply..Actually, this is a replacement blower motor ( about 4 years old)..It didn't run that long on high as the the truck went down and set up for repairs..Can a fuse in the relay fuse compartment cause this..?..Sorry bout all the question..I'm not good with test equipment, only doing manual things with my hands......Also, what is that 10 amp fuse in the panel box dealing with the heater..?
 
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Old Nov 21, 2019
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Even more reason to test if its a replacement blower motor

You need to spend the $8-$15 for a volt/ohm meter, or you will be chasing your tail around in a circle, Walmart sells them

There is no 10amp fuse in the heater circuit, just the 30am blower fuse, the rest of the system is operated by cable or vacuum
 
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Old Nov 21, 2019
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From: Princeville,NC
Originally Posted by RonD
Even more reason to test if its a replacement blower motor

You need to spend the $15 for a volt/ohm meter, or you will be chasing your tail around in a circle

There is no 10amp fuse in the heater circuit, just the 30am blower fuse, the rest of the system is operated by cable or vacuum
Oh..I don't mind spending the $15 for the meter..It's the lack of not knowing how to use it is the problem.........Thanks...!
 
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Old Nov 21, 2019
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Set it to 20vDC, and touch the probes to the wires you want to test, try battery terminals first, simple, should see 12.5volts approx.

With 30 year old wiring you will want to learn to do this

Even a 12v test light can be handy for this, $6 at Walmart
 
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Old Nov 21, 2019
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From: Princeville,NC
Originally Posted by RonD
Set it to 20vDC, and touch the probes to the wires you want to test, try battery terminals first, simple, should see 12.5volts approx.

With 30 year old wiring you will want to learn to do this

Even a 12v test light can be handy for this, $6 at Walmart
Hey RonD..Ok, I'm going out to buy a meter..Thanks..!
 
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Old Nov 21, 2019
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Hey RonD..Quick update..I read somewhere that someone was experiencing the same as myself..He said to tap the blower motor with a small hammer..It worked..!!..Windings in motor going bad, huh..?..I'll run it for a while like this and at least I know when it stops, it'll be the motor itself..Thanks for your help and I did get the meter and will learn to use it..!
 
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