Best way to remove O2 Sensor?
Best way to remove O2 Sensor?
As the title says whats the best way to free up an o2 sensor for easy removal?
I've been going at it for a half hour and Im starting to get a splitting headache from laying on the ground and trying to take it off.
I managed to unplug it, now just taking it off should be a breeze but this thing won't f***in come off. I'm using a specialized socket for it as well, even sprayed WD40 on it and let it soak awhile.
And to loosen it do I turn it to the left?
Any ideas?
I've been going at it for a half hour and Im starting to get a splitting headache from laying on the ground and trying to take it off.
I managed to unplug it, now just taking it off should be a breeze but this thing won't f***in come off. I'm using a specialized socket for it as well, even sprayed WD40 on it and let it soak awhile.
And to loosen it do I turn it to the left?
Any ideas?
PB Blaster (or similar penetrating oil) and let sit. Also try heat. If you have a small propane torch heat pipe around the sensor (it will cause it to expand and loosen) and try it while it is hot (just be careful obviously).
And yes, they are a standard left handed thread and can be a real *****.
Good luck!
And yes, they are a standard left handed thread and can be a real *****.
Good luck!
Originally Posted by rngprerunner
PB Blaster (or similar penetrating oil) and let sit. Also try heat. If you have a small propane torch heat pipe around the sensor (it will cause it to expand and loosen) and try it while it is hot (just be careful obviously).
And yes, they are a standard left handed thread and can be a real *****.
Good luck!
And yes, they are a standard left handed thread and can be a real *****.
Good luck!
Thanks.
Originally Posted by pastfinder
try a little PB Blaster on it and let it soak. If that fails, pour a tiny amount of Coca Cola or other cola around the nut. The citric acid will eat enough of the rust loose to break it free.
What i did was use a ratcheting tie down on the end of the wrench and attached it to the frame rail. Just started cranking the ratchet and it eventually broke the sensor loose. I did this because I had about 2in of actual leverage.
I tried to do mine about a week ago and it wouldn't budge either. I even used the special socket and a breaker bar through the wheel well to get better leverage. Rounded the nut. Now I gotta take it in to get them changed...sucks.
I did all of them on a 3.0 not too long ago. I understand where you are coming from. I stick a pipe in the ratchet for leverage. Once it's broke free it is easy. You have to get creative to position it where you can even move the ratchet. This is the stuff I end up with after working in cramped areas:
I find that, in most situations, a long box wrench works way better than the special O2 sensor socket and it never rounds the hex off. The only problem is getting the wrench past the electrical connector and down to the sensor. On most Ford connectors, the little plastic guard over the release tab is in the way. Filing it down to about half thickness takes about 30 seconds and will allow a 7/8" 12-point box wrench to pass over it. (22mm is probably the actual size of the sensor hex but the 7/8" box wrench gives just a little extra clearance to help get over the connector.)
Once the wrench is in the correct position, just smack it with a Compothane hammer to break it loose. The above posts about presoaking it in PB Blaster or using heat may still apply on stuck sensors.
Once the wrench is in the correct position, just smack it with a Compothane hammer to break it loose. The above posts about presoaking it in PB Blaster or using heat may still apply on stuck sensors.
Originally Posted by rwenzing
I find that, in most situations, a long box wrench works way better than the special O2 sensor socket and it never rounds the hex off. The only problem is getting the wrench past the electrical connector and down to the sensor. On most Ford connectors, the little plastic guard over the release tab is in the way. Filing it down to about half thickness takes about 30 seconds and will allow a 7/8" 12-point box wrench to pass over it. (22mm is probably the actual size of the sensor hex but the 7/8" box wrench gives just a little extra clearance to help get over the connector.)
Once the wrench is in the correct position, just smack it with a Compothane hammer to break it loose. The above posts about presoaking it in PB Blaster or using heat may still apply on stuck sensors.
Once the wrench is in the correct position, just smack it with a Compothane hammer to break it loose. The above posts about presoaking it in PB Blaster or using heat may still apply on stuck sensors.
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