hi new here. so i just picked up my first ranger, it's a 1998 ranger 4x4 3.0L. the person I got it from said it was not running and they didn't know why. got it home and put some new spark plugs in and got it running, it was rough and all signs pointed to a blown head. soo I started the long proses of rebuilding. I did the head seals and all the seals down to the heads, new water pump, timing chain, oil pan seal, maf, power steering pump, coil pack, spark leads, spark plugs, blower motor relay, thermostat, o2 sensor, and some other things. now i put the motor back together and it was hesitant to start, but I did get it started and it idled fine. now the problem is i was un sure if the cam synchronizer was in the right position had cylinder #1 at TDC and put it in at a 20 degrees from the center line of the cam synchronizer. now when the truck in worm it has no problem starting and idles good and has no lack of power. but it will not start from cold, unless i spray starter in the intake. once its starts its fine. question #1 could this be timing. do i have the timing 180. i am also getting 3 codes they are p0351 p0352 p0353. i have checked the coil packs power in and its good, i have also checked all the plugs and leads to make sure everything is getting the power it needs. question #2 could this be grounding? i am really stumped on this anything helps

 

Welcome to the forum

P0351 Ignition Coil A Primary/Secondary Circuit Malfunction
P0352 Ignition Coil B Primary/Secondary Circuit Malfunction
P0353 Ignition Coil C Primary/Secondary Circuit Malfunction

The codes mean the Computer(PCM) is not getting a feedback voltage spike when it "sparks" one of the coils
There are only 3 coils in the coil pack, A, B, and C, each sparks 2 spark plugs at the same time
1/5, 2/6 and 3/4 are the pairs of spark plugs that fire at the same time, its why the coil pack wiring is the way it is
1 2 3
5 6 4
The 5 6 4 side can get miswired, its not 4 5 6, lol

I would try the old coil pack, "new" parts are often bad out of the box

You have spent alot on parts, I would spend $15 more on a Bluetooth OBD2 reader(ELM327) and $5 on the TorquePro APP
This would allow you to see what the computer sees in Real Time from all the sensors
This would help diagnose Cold Start and also way cheaper than replacing parts that still read OK

Try cycling the key on and off 3 times before trying to start Cold Engine and see if that helps
1998 Ranger should run with 60psi fuel pressure, and with Key OFF pressure should hold above 30psi for months and months
When you turn the key ON the fuel pump runs for 2 seconds only, that adds about 10psi pressure
IF.........your fuel pressure is dropping to 0psi over 6 to 8 hours then one Key ON may not add enough pressure for Cold Start, 3 key on/offs adds 30psi

Once engine RPMs are above 400(cranking speed is 200rpms) then computer will turn on fuel pump full time, which is why starting fluid helps, it restores fuel pressure when engine starts up

It could also be a Choke issue, all gasoline engines need to be choked on cold start
But engine shouldn't "run fine" after starting with starting fluid if it was a choke issue

 

thanks RonD
i did put the old coil pack back in and its still gives me the same cods (p0351 p0352 p0353)

i have a OBD2 reader but i just got it and have not played with it just yet.

to my understanding i have good fuel pressure. i cycled the key 8 times the other day and nothing i will try again when i get home to be sure.

i do not think it could be a choke because it would idled bad and thats not the case.

would the cam synchronizer course this problem is it was out of time?

 

Cam sensor would show a code for that
Crank sensor is the Main timing sensor, if the Cam sensor was not "in time" with crank sensor it would set a code for that

Unplug the coil packs 4 wire connector
Key on
1 wire should the 12v key on wire(red wire usually), it should read "Battery Volts", so test battery with key on
The other 3 wires are Grounds, and with key on engine off all 3 should be good grounds via the computer, if not then yes, a computer ground is most like loose of corroded

 

i did replace the crank sensor as wall. could that have anything to do with it?

on the connector i am getting 12.4V witch is the same as my battery, so thats not it.