Ok Ron -

I shot some Ether up in the intake and it spits, and backfires through the intake. So I am flubbered.

The next thing I will do is shove a light to see if it is getting spark. I did do a test taking a screwdriver and holding it against the firewall. Is there a way to reset the PCM completely?

 

I did put another coil pack in - the two others started to crack - so I got one out of the bone yard from a 4.0L and it fit right in. Now have to find reason it wont start. Problem following truck, not the motor.

 

The 4 pin wiring on the 4.0l coil pack is different than the 3.0l wiring, so while it fits it won't work

Cracked coil pack would cause mis-fires not a no start

 

Putting old block back in and it seems the spark has returned. Waiting on second fuel pump to put in as the Schrader valve does not throw anything out any more.

 

Okay so I got her to fire she runs a little bit and then she dies, and then she gives me a P0122, p0176, and a p0452, which I think are the wires the red and the pink that are underneath the truck from the c-309 connector that I deleted. So what I'm going to have to do is hook up the wires and then retest.

 

After new fuel pump was installed.

 

P0122 Throttle/Petal Position Sensor/Switch A Circuit Low Input
P0176 Fuel Composition Sensor Circuit Malfunction
P0452 Evaporative Emission Control System Pressure Sensor Low Input

P0452 won't effect engine operation, and most like from not have gas cap on

P0176 only applies to Flex Fuel engines, and shouldn't cause stalling

P0122.............was TPS ever unplugged when you turned on the key?
If so it would set that code
Clear all codes
And try to find out why its stalling, if possible get a fuel pressure gauge to see if you are losing pressure after start up
Or put a Test Light or Volt meter on inertia switch to make sure it has 12volts after engine starts up, it should, if no 12 volts then engine will stall

 

Well cleared the codes.

Engine wants to try to start but never gets there. The fuel shoots out at 65 PSI with the new fuel pump installed, and I am getting spark. Replaced the MAF sensor - no change.

Got Gas.
Gor Spark.
Air seems OK.

New Crankshaft Position Sensor.
Campshaft position sensor is in from other engine.
Wiring Harness is now complete deleting the C309 Connector.
New Battery in.
50/50 test gets her started - she runs rough then dies.

When the engine turns over with the starter engaged it is firing - but it wont stay lit. What am I missing here? A Throttle Position Sensor?

New working engine is in.

 

You can unplug the TPS and try to start it, shorted TPS can turn off fuel injectors

50/50 test says spark is timed and working but injectors are not, so computer issue most likely at this point

 

WELL DAMN

 

Is there some kind of schematic for that particular connector I don't even know what number that connector is.

 

Rewired new connector in. Now throws a p0176 code. Now on with the testing of that circuit.

 

Jeeze, something I haven't seen before..............................

You would need the EVTM for that year Ranger, to get that connectors pin wiring

P0176 only applies to flex fuel 3.0l Rangers

 

Yeah - I didn't see it cause I didn't hook that up or take it off.

So I went wire for wire in replacing the connector. I did the one side - probably got to do the other.

The Flex Fuel Comaritor is underneath. Checked for voltage - got good 11 volts. Was still acting up so I beat on it with a wrench. Now to figure out why the temp guage says 50% warm and the Oil pressure says none. Once I replace that flex fuel comparitor - it's a new truck - (almost)

This is probably the worst case scenerio for Rangers.

 

3.0l Oil pressure switch is behind passenger side head on the block next to bell housing, its wire probably goes thru the connector

If you pull off the connector from the oil pressure switch and ground its 1 wire, or jumper the 2 wires, then turn on the key the gauge should show normal pressure, IF..............wiring is OK
If it does show pressure then replace oil pressure switch, its bad

 

This Truck is going to be one hell of a write up. Just sayin.

 

Alright.

Replaced the Flex Fuel Comparitor - truck wants to run - but it seems something don't like it.

So - I am rewiring the other side of the connector with a new connector.

With the new(er) flex fuel comparitor - it still tries to start - but will run then she dies. No smoke out the rear - runs like she is getting the crap beat out of her by Mike Tyson. At least it spits and sputters.

So the boy came home from college. Happy to have him there working on it - but I am used to having food in the fridge. Not no more. So while he was sitting in the truck, I took engine starting fluid and put it down it's throat, had him start it. And she ran, and ran, and ran, and ran until out of fuel.

This is probably why I said "We need to replace the other end of that connector." For some reason there seems to be some difficulty getting fuel into the cylendars with the recently cleaned and tested injectors in it. So I am thinking it is that connector from above doing a bang up job.

So with that - What should I check at the next step if that does not seem to fix the issue? It litterally is a new truck.

 

I did replace the oil pressure sensor. It seemed to be bad - now the oil pressure jumps as soon as attempting to crank.

I have to take the boy to the bone yard and fish out a few bolts - while I am there - should I attempt to shop for anything else that you might think needs replacing? I did find a Aerostar with that engine in it there - so I might have some luck with some additional parts.

 

Check that you have fuel pressure at the test port on engine, should be 30psi, like air in a tire, in the fuel rail
Cycle key on and off a few time, if no, or very little, pressure

Each injector should have 12volts with key on, the computer grounds each injector to open it, but its only grounded for 100milliseconds so only way to test if computer is grounding an injector is with a NOID Light

The crank sensor and computer are working because you have spark, i.e. engine starts and runs with 50/50 test, adding fuel manually

 

Here is what she does now

p0176 with new flex fuel module

 

P0176 Fuel Composition Sensor Circuit Malfunction

So same old, same old

 

Yep - I am getting 12 V to it - but don't have an Ocilloscope to check the signal. You would think that it would feed a 2 or 3v back to the computer for up/down that can be tested.

 

I grabbed a new camshaft position synchronizer. It acts like it is out of time.

black smoke blows out when it tries to crank

 

It does have a new flex fuel comp sensor in it from an 2002 taurus

 

202 Taurus shouldn't have one??

They were only used a few years until computer software could be changed to adjust to ethanol percentage as it changed on the fly