2001 Ranger 3L v6 auto, 186k miles. Never had a problem. One day last month I park it at home. 10 minutes later I need to make a quick trip . Get in, turn key, absolutely nothing happens. Replaced the battery, starter/solenoid, and ignition switch (not the key cylinder lock, but the white box inside the dash below and to the left of the steering wheel...has lots of wires going into and out of it,...turning the key slides a little metal pin inside it up and down). All fuses and relays are good, neutral safety switch is good. Key lock cylinder is mechanically working properly. Engine is not headlights, interior lights, wipers, radio, etc all work fine. Theft light is not blinking rapidly. Headlights do not dim when ignition key is turned. Where do I go from here?

 

Welcome to the forum


Fuse 11 (50amp) in engine fuse box powers the ignition switch
test it

Fuse 11 is also connected to Starter Relay in engine fuse box, load connection, read on

When key is turned to START Fuse 11 power is sent to Fuse 24 (7.5amp) in cab fuse box

From there power goes thru Clutch/Neutral switch to the Starter Relay in the engine fuse box.
Starter relay is grounded by the computer, it is part of PATS anti-theft.
Power from ignition switch Closes this relay IF computer Grounds it.

When Starter relay Closes Fuse 11 power passes thru the relay activating starter motor

Check that relay if fuses are good

Wiring diagram here:

 

Need help! I have a 2004 Ford Ranger XLT 2WD. New battery. The scenario is that I was able to start and drive to the supermarket done the shopping then no crank no click no start. I called AAA towed the truck home. Then, later I could start the engine. Today, I was able to start drove around then park the truck and no crank no click no start. Any suggestion?

 

update:
I changed
- Spark plugs (all four)
- fuel filter
- check battery to starter cables
- fuel relay

Then, the truck starts and I drove around the neighborhood. So far so good. cross my finger. Really not sure the specific cause yet.

 

Same problem here. Thanks for all of the rule-outs. Wiring diagram very helpful.
Problem ended up being a corroded wire at the starter solenoid. Would have been an easy fix except for my boyfriend’s enormous hands had a hard time getting into that tight space.

 

So I have a 99 ranger 4.0. Had similar problems. The truck suddenly wouldn’t start one day. I would put the key in, lights on dash would either be very dim or not come on at all. Sometimes they would all come on but would never even turn over when trying to crank. No headlights or radio. Theft light was flashing very fast. Changed ignition switch, Dpfe sensor and plenty of fuses. Checked all battery terminal wire connections/ground connections and wire brushed. Still No luck same symptoms. Checked all fuses and relays with voltmeter and they were good. Even though my tools said they were good, Ended up changing fuse #5 (50a ignition switch/starter relay), relay #4 (pcm power relay) and relay #6 (starter relay) all in engine fuse box under the hood. Also changed the large 175a megafuse on side of engine compartment fuse box. FIXED all of the problems. Truck cranked right up and haven’t had any problems since. In conclusion Try those fuses and relays before buying 80$+ ignition switch and other things like I did…

 

So I have a 99 ranger 4.0. Had similar problems. The truck suddenly wouldn’t start one day. I would put the key in, lights on dash would either be very dim or not come on at all. Sometimes they would all come on but would never even turn over when trying to crank. Sometimes the radio and headlights would work and sometimes they wouldn’t. Theft light was flashing very fast. Changed ignition switch, Dpfe sensor and plenty of fuses. Checked all battery terminal wire connections/ground connections and wire brushed. Still No luck same symptoms. Checked all fuses and relays with voltmeter and they were good. Even though my tools said they were good, Ended up changing fuse #5 (50a ignition switch/starter relay), relay #4 (pcm power relay) and relay #6 (starter relay) all in engine fuse box under the hood. Also changed the large 175a megafuse on side of engine compartment fuse box. FIXED all of the problems. Truck cranked right up and haven’t had any problems since. In conclusion Try those fuses and relays before buying 80$+ ignition switch and other things like I did…