I tested my TPS and i got bad results...The first test was testing the 5 volt reference signal(tested fine 5.03V). Next was testing the Sensor Return(ground) circuit..was suppose to test out to 11-12V but it read 45.2V!! WTF? Next test was testing the TP Signal(was fine, .986v) Heres what i found but have no idea??(BELOW)... HELP PLZ!

If the Multimeter DID NOT show 11 to 12 Volts, then this indicates a problem with either the PCM (internal fault/problem) or an open in the wire between the TPS and the PCM itself. Altho’ testing these two conditions are beyond the scope of this article, you have now eliminated the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) on your Ford vehicle as being the cause of the problem and/or the TPS Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) lighting up the Check Engine Light (CEL).

 

This sounds like an error in the interpretation of the meter range. There's no way that a vehicle with a ~5V PCM reference voltage and a 12V nominal system voltage can produce a 45.2V reading from the TPS.

• Reference voltage should be about 5V
• Signal return volts is at/near zero relative to chassis ground
• Closed throttle TP signal volts is usually about 1V (0.53~1.27V acceptable)
• TP signal volts should increase predictably as the throttle is opened - no flat spots, reversals or drop outs.
• WOT TP signal is usually around 4~4.5V

 

I read an article describing how to check the TPS(http://easyautodiagnostics.com/ford_...tps_test_2.php) and thats the results i got...

 

The test looks OK.

Going from battery positive to the signal return should show close to the system voltage (12V nominal). I think you need to revisit that step in the procedure. 45V is not possible.

 

battery positive? shouldnt it be negative?

 

Wirelessly posted (Droid2)

Have you tried new batteries in your meter? Sometimes at work if I get some wild, out of scope readings I'll change my batteries in my meter. When they get weak it throws the meter off. Just a thought...

 

I was referring to the signal return test as outlined in the procedure that you cited in that link. Actually, the condition of the signal return could be inferred by going to either polarity.

Measuring between battery positive and signal return should show close to battery voltage - roughly 12V
Measuring between battery negative and signal return should show close to zero voltage.

 

Put new batteries in my multimeter and got the same readings..