DPFE help
DPFE help
Hi, I have a 2003 Ranger 0.3 with Std trans, I am having what appears to be as hesitation or slight stumble at low throttle/ cruise speed. My truck is the U code in the VIN and has the plastic intake. From what I have been reading it sounds like my DPFE is going bad. I was not sure If a 2003 3.0 still used this DPFE/ EGR system but he said Ford did on the 2003. My understanding is it should be on the drivers side with the EGR attached to the intake manifold and the DPFE beside it and is a rectangle black plastic box with 2 rubber tube attached and a electrical connection. I can find this on my truck. Can someone please explain to me where it is and should I have one for sure. While I have no CEL coming on it does drive me crazy the way it drives at cruise speed. Here is a pic, thanks
Thanks that's what I thought, which is why I can't find it. This is why I'm so messed up because my Ford dealer say's I have a ERG system and gave me a print out which say's " Catalog: Ranger R 1983-2003 Section: Emission system- E.G.R. 6 cyl. 3.0L - EXC. SOHC 2000- 2003" So I will have to take her in and see what code(s) come up. Thanks!
The truck has about 65000 miles on her, I just put new plugs, plug wires, new air filter, spray cleaned the mass air sensor,oil and filter, runs great except for a little stumble at 2000 to 25000 rpm cruise, Any one have any ideas?
The truck has about 65000 miles on her, I just put new plugs, plug wires, new air filter, spray cleaned the mass air sensor,oil and filter, runs great except for a little stumble at 2000 to 25000 rpm cruise, Any one have any ideas?
Unregistered User
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looking closer at your pic it appears that maybe you do have an EGR system. the two rubber hoses on the back side of the intake could go to a DPFE sensor.
can you take a pic of where those two hoses go?
and the DPFE sensor will not cause a stumble as all it does is monitor exhaust gas flow.
see if you can also get the code(s) pulled
can you take a pic of where those two hoses go?
and the DPFE sensor will not cause a stumble as all it does is monitor exhaust gas flow.
see if you can also get the code(s) pulled
So just to go over a few issues, I don't have a OEM installed EGR system, for one to be there you must have a tapped outlet on one of the exhaust manifolds, I have no such thing after a very good look today from the top side and also under the truck today. In my understanding is 03 and up at least in Canada don't use the EGR/DPFE system.
So I went and had the code(s) read today, well nothing comes up. So I have no check light or codes. So I then did some more research on the advice a none dealer mechanic gave me. Here is what I found from Alldata: BUCK/ JERK AND MISS DURING DRIVE CYCLE ABOVE 3000RPM
FORD: 2000-2003 Taurus, Ranger
ISSUE: Some 2000-2003 Taurus, Sable, Ranger vehicles equiped with a 3.0L 2-valve gas or FFV engine may exhibit a buck or jerk miss during drive cycles above 3000 RPM with no diagnostic trouble codes (DTC's). A possible cause is the camshaft synchronizer assembly. Since the camshaft position (CPM) fault monitor is not active above 2500RPM, no diagnostic trouble code (PO340) is set during the drive concern, thus making it difficult to diagnose the root cause component.
For those who don't know what the synchronizer assembly looks like, it looks the the bottom half of a distributor with a gear that drives of the cam. the Ford dealer wants $443.03 to change it , with a book rate of 1.2 hours labour to do it.
So now I need to know with I do it myself is it a straight bolt in or do I need to check and or reset timing?.
So I went and had the code(s) read today, well nothing comes up. So I have no check light or codes. So I then did some more research on the advice a none dealer mechanic gave me. Here is what I found from Alldata: BUCK/ JERK AND MISS DURING DRIVE CYCLE ABOVE 3000RPM
FORD: 2000-2003 Taurus, Ranger
ISSUE: Some 2000-2003 Taurus, Sable, Ranger vehicles equiped with a 3.0L 2-valve gas or FFV engine may exhibit a buck or jerk miss during drive cycles above 3000 RPM with no diagnostic trouble codes (DTC's). A possible cause is the camshaft synchronizer assembly. Since the camshaft position (CPM) fault monitor is not active above 2500RPM, no diagnostic trouble code (PO340) is set during the drive concern, thus making it difficult to diagnose the root cause component.
For those who don't know what the synchronizer assembly looks like, it looks the the bottom half of a distributor with a gear that drives of the cam. the Ford dealer wants $443.03 to change it , with a book rate of 1.2 hours labour to do it.
So now I need to know with I do it myself is it a straight bolt in or do I need to check and or reset timing?.
Unregistered User
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why would you change the valve if theres nothing wrong with it????
the DPFE system is very simple and the pressure sensor will not cause ANY dirveability problems as it is a 'INPUT" device and just tells the computer if the EGR valve is open when the computer commands it open!
So just to go over a few issues, I don't have a OEM installed EGR system, for one to be there you must have a tapped outlet on one of the exhaust manifolds, I have no such thing after a very good look today from the top side and also under the truck today. In my understanding is 03 and up at least in Canada don't use the EGR/DPFE system.
So I went and had the code(s) read today, well nothing comes up. So I have no check light or codes. So I then did some more research on the advice a none dealer mechanic gave me. Here is what I found from Alldata: BUCK/ JERK AND MISS DURING DRIVE CYCLE ABOVE 3000RPM
FORD: 2000-2003 Taurus, Ranger
ISSUE: Some 2000-2003 Taurus, Sable, Ranger vehicles equiped with a 3.0L 2-valve gas or FFV engine may exhibit a buck or jerk miss during drive cycles above 3000 RPM with no diagnostic trouble codes (DTC's). A possible cause is the camshaft synchronizer assembly. Since the camshaft position (CPM) fault monitor is not active above 2500RPM, no diagnostic trouble code (PO340) is set during the drive concern, thus making it difficult to diagnose the root cause component.
For those who don't know what the synchronizer assembly looks like, it looks the the bottom half of a distributor with a gear that drives of the cam. the Ford dealer wants $443.03 to change it , with a book rate of 1.2 hours labour to do it.
So now I need to know with I do it myself is it a straight bolt in or do I need to check and or reset timing?.
So I went and had the code(s) read today, well nothing comes up. So I have no check light or codes. So I then did some more research on the advice a none dealer mechanic gave me. Here is what I found from Alldata: BUCK/ JERK AND MISS DURING DRIVE CYCLE ABOVE 3000RPM
FORD: 2000-2003 Taurus, Ranger
ISSUE: Some 2000-2003 Taurus, Sable, Ranger vehicles equiped with a 3.0L 2-valve gas or FFV engine may exhibit a buck or jerk miss during drive cycles above 3000 RPM with no diagnostic trouble codes (DTC's). A possible cause is the camshaft synchronizer assembly. Since the camshaft position (CPM) fault monitor is not active above 2500RPM, no diagnostic trouble code (PO340) is set during the drive concern, thus making it difficult to diagnose the root cause component.
For those who don't know what the synchronizer assembly looks like, it looks the the bottom half of a distributor with a gear that drives of the cam. the Ford dealer wants $443.03 to change it , with a book rate of 1.2 hours labour to do it.
So now I need to know with I do it myself is it a straight bolt in or do I need to check and or reset timing?.
you need to make sure the engine is top dead center when you do this ... its not to hard but id let the dealer do it if you dont know that much about engine work ...
why would you change the valve if theres nothing wrong with it????
the DPFE system is very simple and the pressure sensor will not cause ANY dirveability problems as it is a 'INPUT" device and just tells the computer if the EGR valve is open when the computer commands it open!
the DPFE system is very simple and the pressure sensor will not cause ANY dirveability problems as it is a 'INPUT" device and just tells the computer if the EGR valve is open when the computer commands it open!
also watch out for the cps syncronizer I lost my engine to that problem in spring of 07
Unregistered User
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this is not "hit or miss" !!!!
if you have the proper tools and understand the system diaging it is a breeze.
i have to agree with this...i went through 3 DPFEs before changing my EGR and once i changed both ive had no problems
Cam synch
Its hit or miss which ones bad if the egr is bad usually the dpfe is bad as well I know a couple people who experienced this problem with the egr going bad and changing it and the dpfe was bad as well. I am one of them on my 98.
also watch out for the cps syncronizer I lost my engine to that problem in spring of 07
also watch out for the cps syncronizer I lost my engine to that problem in spring of 07
Can you break down your story with the camshaft synchro please bro? Im going through this as we speak, had a buddy of mine replace it and im almost positive its off time now, he said he put it in exactly how old one came out but didnt use the tool, it ran great for a little then started noticing slight backfire at the intake on a cold start, then would go away and drive great, never had a code for anything to do with the cps or synchro no codes what so ever yesterday after driving for about 30 minutes i heard the exhaust rattling a tiny bit, its all rusted under there I expect it to happen, leak at the manifold usual ranger ****, but when i stepped out to look underneath the exhaust was ******* HOT. Now i only know that to be directly from timing being advanced I believe? Shut it off an left it like that till i drove it 3 minutes up the street very livhtly to the mechanic shop to let them handle it like i should have done to begin with, now my temp gauge and oil pressure gauge have been busted since i bought the truck in November, i am praying the engine not toast bro im really stressing over it lol
This thread is 15 years old...............................................
So you are unlikely to get a response from OP
Only the crank sensor sets spark timing, Cam sensor is for sequential injector timing
If these two are not close enough together in timing the computer ignores the cam sensor and will set a code that will tell you cam sensor is out of time
So not your issue
Not having an oil pressure indicator could be your problem
HOT exhaust/Cats means engine was running too RICH
So you are unlikely to get a response from OP
Only the crank sensor sets spark timing, Cam sensor is for sequential injector timing
If these two are not close enough together in timing the computer ignores the cam sensor and will set a code that will tell you cam sensor is out of time
So not your issue
Not having an oil pressure indicator could be your problem
HOT exhaust/Cats means engine was running too RICH
This thread is 15 years old...............................................
So you are unlikely to get a response from OP
Only the crank sensor sets spark timing, Cam sensor is for sequential injector timing
If these two are not close enough together in timing the computer ignores the cam sensor and will set a code that will tell you cam sensor is out of time
So not your issue
Not having an oil pressure indicator could be your problem
HOT exhaust/Cats means engine was running too RICH
So you are unlikely to get a response from OP
Only the crank sensor sets spark timing, Cam sensor is for sequential injector timing
If these two are not close enough together in timing the computer ignores the cam sensor and will set a code that will tell you cam sensor is out of time
So not your issue
Not having an oil pressure indicator could be your problem
HOT exhaust/Cats means engine was running too RICH
**yea sorry i didn’t realize it was that old im new to this whole forum thing, but its in the shop and misfire cylinder 6 code and misfire on start up code, they said spark plug in that cylinder was cross threaded, fixed that tested it for compression, that was fine so they checked cam synchronizer an said it was off, witch i already told them i was 99% sure it was a timing issue soo tomorrow morning they are taking it out an re installing it, im assuming they want to use the same part but i want nee synchro and sensor, might as well put a motorcraft one in, especially for charging me 415$ smh shoulda did it on my own but was a little intimidated not gonna lie, didnt wanna mess anything up but from now on if its something i can handle im doing it, thank you for the reply thought man ! Much appreciated
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