Engine rebuild
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From: Riverdale
Engine rebuild
My how blew on my 99 flex fuel ranger and overheated to a stall on the highway. One of my prisons have seized and i am considering a engine rebuild. What kind of cost am i looking at and is this even possible for a rookie? Also is there a book or something i can use as a guide. I'm not too familiar around the inside of an engine
You probably wouldn't want to do the full rebuild on your "rookie" debut but certainly a partial rebuild would help you learn and save you some money.
You need an engine hoist, these can be rented, but you need a truck to get one, irony, lol.
And an engine stand, these are not expensive.
Take lots of pictures of the wiring while you are remove all the parts from the engine.
Strip it down to block and heads then remove it, you do need something under the trans to support it while engine is out.
Also remember as you lift the engine up, the body will also lift up because the weight of the engine is being removed, so the hoist arm should be as close to the heads/block as practical to get the full lifting potential of the hoist.
Once engine is on the engine stand remove the rockers, heads, flexplate/flywheel, main pulley, water pump, timing chain cover, oil pan and oil pump.
What you have left is a "short block", call a few machine shops to find out what their price is for a short block rebuild and head resurfacing and testing.
All the previous work was just wrenching, the short block rebuild requires tools and using gauges to check clearances, which you can do yourself, if so inclined.
The head resurfacing needs to be done at a machine shop and they can also test the heads for leaks, overheating often cracks a head, just FYI.
You need an engine hoist, these can be rented, but you need a truck to get one, irony, lol.
And an engine stand, these are not expensive.
Take lots of pictures of the wiring while you are remove all the parts from the engine.
Strip it down to block and heads then remove it, you do need something under the trans to support it while engine is out.
Also remember as you lift the engine up, the body will also lift up because the weight of the engine is being removed, so the hoist arm should be as close to the heads/block as practical to get the full lifting potential of the hoist.
Once engine is on the engine stand remove the rockers, heads, flexplate/flywheel, main pulley, water pump, timing chain cover, oil pan and oil pump.
What you have left is a "short block", call a few machine shops to find out what their price is for a short block rebuild and head resurfacing and testing.
All the previous work was just wrenching, the short block rebuild requires tools and using gauges to check clearances, which you can do yourself, if so inclined.
The head resurfacing needs to be done at a machine shop and they can also test the heads for leaks, overheating often cracks a head, just FYI.
His answer is dead on. The OP should no longer have any issues in deciding now if he/she wants to try it themself, or have it done (rebuild).
Usually the less expensive engine stands start at 1,000lbs capacity.
A 3.0l Vulcan will be 350-400lbs, depending on what is attached to it, so well within weight range of any engine stand.
Automatic transmissions weight about 120-160lbs
Manuals 80-110lbs
Transfer case about 60lbs
A 3.0l Vulcan will be 350-400lbs, depending on what is attached to it, so well within weight range of any engine stand.
Automatic transmissions weight about 120-160lbs
Manuals 80-110lbs
Transfer case about 60lbs
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