So I am still having thumping and temp gauge fluctuation issues with my 93 Ranger, posts from the past tried pretty much everything imaginable (short of a new radiator and water pump) with help from Ron D. and others. Gauge is steady during a highway cruise but after a prolonged drive when I come to a stop it rises fairly rapidly past halfway and then drops after about 20-30 seconds of thumping. Strange, gentle town driving doesn't seem to have a problem, only long cruises or especially climbing hills.
https://www.ranger-forums.com/2-9l-3...-again-174614/
https://www.ranger-forums.com/4-0l-o...around-167666/

Thought I might try a By-Pass kit build. I can get the 'T' fitting for the lower radiator hose but I do not know if this particular kit 'T-eed' into a heater hose or had some fitting that went into the temp gauge sender, I've read both. Can anyone tell me what that kit actually looked like and if the bypass went into one of the heater hoses? And if into a heater hose which one? Attached a pic of my heater hoses in case someone knows if that's the route to take.....thanks!

 

OK, can somebody tell me which of the 2 heater hoses the flow goes into the heater core and which one exits? I cannot really decide by looking at the thermostat/waterpump housing connections.

 

It doesn't matter.

 

I figured it didn't matter as far as function of the heater core, but I was thinking I'd like to get the trapped steam out before it entered the core. The thumping apparently occurs in the core according to legend.

 

I see the "it doesn't matter" answer from other guy. Just so you are aware, look at the heater control valve. It has an arrow pointing in the direction of flow. This is what opens to allow hot water to go to heater core. Otherwise closed. You wouldn't want hot water going to heater core when running the air conditioner is why.

 

Agree, but the 93 didn't have a heater control valve that controlled the flow of the water. Those 2 inlets that the heater hoses go to are the heater core itself, direct connect. Easiest heater core to replace. I looked up around the thermostat housing and I don't see any kind of eletrical valve for those 2 hoses. The temperature control lever on the panel controls the airflow over the heater core, blue is no airflow and red is fry an egg.

The later years had a much more complicated arrangement so I am quite lucky in that regard.

Installed a new heater core not too long ago thinking it might be clogged or causing issues, no change.