Heating Problem - Ranger-Forums - The Ultimate Ford Ranger Resource


General Ford Ranger Discussion General discussion of the Ford Ranger that does not fit in any other sub-forum.

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Search this Thread
  #1  
Old 01-07-2011
sheltonfilms's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Knoxville, TN
Posts: 631
Heating Problem

In my 2000 2.5L I'm having little to no heat. Let me tell you everything I possibly can. When I have any vent setting (either floor, top vents, or both) I can drive with barely any heat. If I'm going up a hill the temperature of the air coming from the vents goes up but the top temperature I feel is around 65-70 degrees. This is while the temp gauge is reading normal. Now at cruising speeds the temperature will drop all the way down to the lowest setting. It will go right back up when I turn the **** to OFF or Max A/C (heater control valve closes, 4 port BTW).

Thinks I've checked:
Heater Valve works correctly (by looking at the rod move, under vacuum and without)
Heater Inlet hose is hot, heater outlet hose is lukewarm.
I flushed the heater core itself, backwards, forwards, backwards, forwards, and again backwards.
(one hose in bucket other connected to 5/8" barbed hose adapter connected to pistol style sprayer)
The flow doesn't seem too constricted.
After doing this I filled the heater the best I could with coolant. Parked on a 35-40 degree hill making the radiator cap the highest point in the system and ran the truck for about 10 mins with the cap off.
Still same results, actually a little worse than before the flush.

Could this still be caused by a clogged heater core? If so, is there a chemical I could pour into the core to dissolve whats plugged in there? Already used water hose, afraid to use a higher pressure air hose.
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 01-08-2011
ccernst's Avatar
Member
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Kansas City, MO
Posts: 380
Have you looked at your thermostat? New one is cheap to try. If it is stuck open, that'd explain why temp would go down while cruising at speed. As well as when you give it gas and engine temp increases.
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 01-08-2011
Lone_Ranger's Avatar
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Fernridge, BC
Posts: 274
If the inlet is hot and the outlet is lukewarm, I would suspect that the heatercore is plugged or is having an issue transmitting heat (pull the cover inside the cab under the dash just to see, make sure that there's no build up of dirt or dust in there blocking the flow of warm air - should only be four screws and 10 min if they're like the older Rangers). Assuming that your valves are all working properly, then it might possibly be a thermostat issue but if it hasn't been change for a while its just cheap insurance anyways to change it anyways to avoid problems down the road. LR
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 01-08-2011
Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Milwaukee,WI
Posts: 14
Pull off your heater hoses at the firewall and check the heater core for gunk.Flush out the core with a hose if need be.This is a good easy first step.
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 01-08-2011
Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Upstate,NY
Posts: 2,598
I"ll go with Corey on this as I've had the same happen with a stat stuck open.
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 01-08-2011
sheltonfilms's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Knoxville, TN
Posts: 631
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lone_Ranger View Post
If the inlet is hot and the outlet is lukewarm, I would suspect that the heatercore is plugged or is having an issue transmitting heat (pull the cover inside the cab under the dash just to see, make sure that there's no build up of dirt or dust in there blocking the flow of warm air - should only be four screws and 10 min if they're like the older Rangers). Assuming that your valves are all working properly, then it might possibly be a thermostat issue but if it hasn't been change for a while its just cheap insurance anyways to change it anyways to avoid problems down the road. LR
To get to the heater core on models past like 1995 you have to remove the dash. I've replaced one in my buddies 2000 (same as mine), and I had to pull the dash.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Meddle View Post
Pull off your heater hoses at the firewall and check the heater core for gunk.Flush out the core with a hose if need be.This is a good easy first step.
Already flushed the core, mentioned in OP.

I've replaced the thermostat twice, once a whole year ago( replacing original), and again 6 months ago. Both times stuck open. I've replaced them with Murray brand. I went ahead months ago and bought a Motorcraft thermostat. I'm thinking that the Murray brand is crap. I'll replace the Murray with that Motorcraft when I get a chance (might as well flush the crap out of the whole system). I'll let you guys know.
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 01-11-2011
sheltonfilms's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Knoxville, TN
Posts: 631
Well I flushed the system out using that Prestone Flush Kit. Then I added the Prestone Flush chem to it and ran it. (all this without the thermostat in it). Put new thermostat in......same problem. Looks like its the heater core. Dang is it cooooold outside. Good thing its warming up this weekend (3 day weekend). I may tackle the new blend door for the EATC and new wiring harness for Power doors.

Some little info I though I would share about the thermostat housing (2.5 L):
Behind the thermostat is the hole for the coolant to pass by the sensors and into the heater control valve. In other words there is always coolant flowing through this passage, no matter what the thermostat is doing. It would make sense that it was my heater core being clogged because if the valve is open and fluid isn't flowing because it is clogged it would cause the temp gauge to read low because this would stop the flow of coolant through this part of the system. When I turn the heat to OFF it closes the valve bypassing the heater core (having better flow) so fresh coolant would flow over the sensors causing the temperature to climb back up to normal.
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 01-15-2011
sheltonfilms's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Knoxville, TN
Posts: 631
I just replaced the heater cored and filled up the coolant. But now its heating (pretty good heat but not REALLY HOT) and then again at cruising speeds the temp drops. I felt the heater hoses.....inlet is too hot to handle, the outlet is like lukewarm. Could it just need to have the air bleed out later, possible air pocket?
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 01-15-2011
Needforspeed3685's Avatar
Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Lowell, AR
Posts: 1,836
If you have one, I would recommend removing the vacuum actuated valve that is on the heater core inlet hose. These things fail more often than not, and restrict flow into the heater core. If you decide to remove it, a simple solution for the extra vacuum hose is to cut it so you have an open end, then melt the hose and pinch it shut.

Here's what it looks like. You can buy a coupler at any parts store to retain the stock hoses. Just make sure to pick up two clamps while you're at it.

Name:  IMG_5261.jpg
Views: 442
Size:  87.9 KB
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 01-15-2011
sheltonfilms's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Knoxville, TN
Posts: 631
I actually took the heater valve off and ran it as part of a test. Since mine was a four port valve, I replaced it with two 5/8"couplers.
Reply With Quote
  #11  
Old 01-16-2011
sheltonfilms's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Knoxville, TN
Posts: 631
Update: After Disconnecting the heater hoses and trying to get all the air out It seems 1000x better. There is still a temp gauge change every now and then from right in the middle to down about 5 degrees of rotation colder. I'm sure there is still more air to get out.

Can you buy bleeder valves to install in the heater hose lines?
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old 01-17-2011
Needforspeed3685's Avatar
Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Lowell, AR
Posts: 1,836
After melting a hole in my heater hose the other day from it touching the EGR supply tube, I am having the same problem with a lack of heat now. I'm assuming I've got an air pocket in the heater coil as well. I've never had to remove air from the coolant system....what method did you use?
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old 01-17-2011
sheltonfilms's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Knoxville, TN
Posts: 631
Since the highest point in the system is the heater hoses where it connects to the heater core, I took off one line and filled it with coolant until coolant started flowing out the nipple of the heater core (make sure there isn't any vacuum on the heater control valve, you can just unplug the gray vacuum line).

It also helps that I have the Prestone flush kit installed on the hoses. I can just hold the hose up and unscrew the cap and top the coolant off. Thats about the best way to get the air out.
Reply With Quote
  #14  
Old 11-11-2015
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Lawrenceburg, Indiana
Posts: 4
Very good thread. Also having heat problems. Slightly warm heat but not even close to where it should be. Thanks for all of the good suggestions! (2006 Ranger)
Reply With Quote
  #15  
Old 11-16-2015
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Renton, WA
Posts: 9
Is the blend door moving properly? If it is sticking or not moving to close off the cold air you will never get good heat. The vacuum control just opens or closes. The temp of the heat is controlled by the blend door.
Reply With Quote
  #16  
Old 11-19-2015
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Lawrenceburg, Indiana
Posts: 4
The blend door was not moving at all. Had to replace the unit. Took it to a local mechanic, that was a little too much for me to accomplish. Thanks enjr4!
Reply With Quote
  #17  
Old 03-02-2016
Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: monroe
Posts: 1
1996 ford ranger 2.3

Hey guys I'm new too this site. But just bought a 1996 Ford ranger 2.3 5 speed to drive back and forth for work. Everything is great becides I see the temp gauge go from the middle to a little over half way. I have replaced the t- Sat, radiator cap, new radiator, new water pump. New heater core. So I'm kinda lose for words to why it's doing it. I know the t-sat was for 192 degrees. Anything else y'all can think of? Oh yea and I really only see it at high rpms when shifting.
Reply With Quote
  #18  
Old 10-01-2017
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Fredericksburg, VA
Posts: 5
Can someone explain how the thermostat would be affecting the heater? I thought the thermostat is for the cooling of the engine. I have a 2011 Ranger XLT 2.3 5-speed manual and have no heat. 91,000 miles. Had the cooling system flushed 10,000 miles ago. Heater blows only cold air whether on AC or Heat. Haven't noticed any leaks or odors inside the cab. I thought about replacing the thermostat but the auto parts salesman said it wouldn't affect the heater, but only the engine temperature. I thought replacing the thermostat might be a good first step and if that didn't work, a flush of the heater core would be second.
Reply With Quote
  #19  
Old 10-01-2017
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Fredericksburg, VA
Posts: 5
Just a bit more information about my heating issue. I just started the Ranger and let it idle until hit reached operating temperature. With the heater set on High speed and temperature, I raised the hood and felt both inlet and outlet hoses of the heater core. Both were warm. I was expecting the outlet hose to be cold if I was having a clogged heater core issue. Thoughts?
Reply With Quote
Reply

Related Topics
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Why is my truck over heating Hoytbowhunter General Ford Ranger Discussion 4 04-08-2011 02:53 PM
2.9L HEATING UP PROBLEM gatsguns General Ford Ranger Discussion 3 03-08-2011 02:24 AM
heating/cooling vent selection not working VW TANK General Technical & Electrical 8 04-04-2008 10:51 PM
Radiator, Over heating, door ajar light, dome light, cranking issues bspivy 2.3L & 2.5L I4 Tech 10 10-28-2007 01:41 PM
2003 Taurus - Heating/Cooling Fan Question - Need help quick - Bob? mental ambiguity General Technical & Electrical 11 07-05-2006 09:32 PM


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -6. The time now is 03:28 AM.


We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites.