IDM resistor
#1
IDM resistor
Hello and thanks in advance.
In my continuing journey, I'm on the trail of solving what MAY be the crux of my warm idle issue. It seems there is a resistor on the lead to the negative side of the coil that is "supposed" to be the main culprit of the 18 trouble code. I haven't dug into this yet as tonight's project is replacing an exhaust manifold gasket, but I've got to make a plan as the salvage yards seem to be short of potential Rangers for a replacement. Does anyone of you have experience with this issue? I've replaced a ton of sensors and other stuff and this is the latest bridge to cross.
thanks so much
tony
In my continuing journey, I'm on the trail of solving what MAY be the crux of my warm idle issue. It seems there is a resistor on the lead to the negative side of the coil that is "supposed" to be the main culprit of the 18 trouble code. I haven't dug into this yet as tonight's project is replacing an exhaust manifold gasket, but I've got to make a plan as the salvage yards seem to be short of potential Rangers for a replacement. Does anyone of you have experience with this issue? I've replaced a ton of sensors and other stuff and this is the latest bridge to cross.
thanks so much
tony
#2
RF Veteran
iTrader: (1)
What year and what engine?
On the TFI system there was a 22k ohm resistor on a spliced wire from TFI to coil "-", it was for RPM to computer and if its failed it could set that code, shouldn't cause running issue unless it was grounding out
Its seen here: https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/02...ngIGN.gif?1317
Bottom center
It was a part that was not sold separately, basically people got replacements at wrecking yards
Ford used same resistor on all TFI systems up to 1993 on some cars and trucks, not a Ranger thing
Picture of one here, with damaged wire: https://www.therangerstation.com/for...607174&slide=1
On the TFI system there was a 22k ohm resistor on a spliced wire from TFI to coil "-", it was for RPM to computer and if its failed it could set that code, shouldn't cause running issue unless it was grounding out
Its seen here: https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/02...ngIGN.gif?1317
Bottom center
It was a part that was not sold separately, basically people got replacements at wrecking yards
Ford used same resistor on all TFI systems up to 1993 on some cars and trucks, not a Ranger thing
Picture of one here, with damaged wire: https://www.therangerstation.com/for...607174&slide=1
#3
#4
RF Veteran
iTrader: (1)
Code 18 means computer thinks there is a problem with spark timing
Computer has two sources for spark/distributor timing, the actual signal from the sensor inside the distributor, and the "fire" signal, Coil "-", from the wire with resistor
Code 18 means they are not "matched" to the computers timing "suggestions" to TFI module
To run well a gasoline engine needs "vacuum advance" spark timing or it will hesitate when accelerating
A distributor has weights and springs inside for RPM advance, i.e. the faster the distributor spins the more advanced the spark timing gets to keep up with piston speed
In the old days there was a vacuum advance on the distributor hooked up to intake manifold vacuum, when you opened the throttle vacuum in intake drops and spark timing was changed for the Richer fuel mix, with out that engine would stumble a bit and hesitate
Computer uses the throttle position sensor(TPS) and the MAP sensor, instead of a distributor vacuum advance, to change spark timing by "telling" TFI module to advance or retard timing
It compares what it "tells" TFI do, to what TFI does via the feedback from RPM info via that resistor
The SPOUT connector and wire is how the computer "tells" the TFI module how to adjust the timing, which is why you need to disconnect SPOUT to set base spark timing
Computer has two sources for spark/distributor timing, the actual signal from the sensor inside the distributor, and the "fire" signal, Coil "-", from the wire with resistor
Code 18 means they are not "matched" to the computers timing "suggestions" to TFI module
To run well a gasoline engine needs "vacuum advance" spark timing or it will hesitate when accelerating
A distributor has weights and springs inside for RPM advance, i.e. the faster the distributor spins the more advanced the spark timing gets to keep up with piston speed
In the old days there was a vacuum advance on the distributor hooked up to intake manifold vacuum, when you opened the throttle vacuum in intake drops and spark timing was changed for the Richer fuel mix, with out that engine would stumble a bit and hesitate
Computer uses the throttle position sensor(TPS) and the MAP sensor, instead of a distributor vacuum advance, to change spark timing by "telling" TFI module to advance or retard timing
It compares what it "tells" TFI do, to what TFI does via the feedback from RPM info via that resistor
The SPOUT connector and wire is how the computer "tells" the TFI module how to adjust the timing, which is why you need to disconnect SPOUT to set base spark timing
#5
That is great stuff, Ron. Really helps to guide me in nailing this down.
A few days back I reset the timing with the SPOUT connector off, and tested the resistance in the connector. It tested 0 resistance. The timing seemed to make the cold idle better.
Great to know that it's a Ford resistor and not unique to Rangers. My resistor loop has some copper wire showing at the loops-probably from heat shrinkage. I'm off the to salvage yard. Will take a picture of mine and report back when I do that job. Also, I will dig into the threads on how to search out this possible ground. I'm going to have to be careful not to fry the ECM, I imagine, I' read that it's possible to do that. My multimeter is not the finest instrument.
Again, thanks. Electrical stuff has always been a challenge, and you are helping me increase the skill-set. Explaining the function of the TPS and the MAP sensor in terms of old school; yeah, I can wrap my head around that.
tony
A few days back I reset the timing with the SPOUT connector off, and tested the resistance in the connector. It tested 0 resistance. The timing seemed to make the cold idle better.
Great to know that it's a Ford resistor and not unique to Rangers. My resistor loop has some copper wire showing at the loops-probably from heat shrinkage. I'm off the to salvage yard. Will take a picture of mine and report back when I do that job. Also, I will dig into the threads on how to search out this possible ground. I'm going to have to be careful not to fry the ECM, I imagine, I' read that it's possible to do that. My multimeter is not the finest instrument.
Again, thanks. Electrical stuff has always been a challenge, and you are helping me increase the skill-set. Explaining the function of the TPS and the MAP sensor in terms of old school; yeah, I can wrap my head around that.
tony
#6
RF Veteran
iTrader: (1)
Great
Yes, all the "new stuff" on engines today just replaces the "old stuff" but is more reliable than the old stuff, and like you say it is just a newer skill-set to understand how it works to accomplish the same thing the old stuff did
Anyone who had to change points and adjust dwell will agree the new stuff is better in that respect, lol
Fuel injection does what a carb did but does it better because it can adjust air/fuel mix "on the fly", in the "old days" we had to adjust the carb and choke for different times of year(summer/winter) and driving conditions, like higher attitude/elevation
Many say the older stuff was easier to work on, but I think that comes from having to work on it all the time, so you learned it by shear repetition, lol
Newer systems just don't need that constant attention so we forget some of the stuff we learn because we just don't have to repeat it all the time
Yes, all the "new stuff" on engines today just replaces the "old stuff" but is more reliable than the old stuff, and like you say it is just a newer skill-set to understand how it works to accomplish the same thing the old stuff did
Anyone who had to change points and adjust dwell will agree the new stuff is better in that respect, lol
Fuel injection does what a carb did but does it better because it can adjust air/fuel mix "on the fly", in the "old days" we had to adjust the carb and choke for different times of year(summer/winter) and driving conditions, like higher attitude/elevation
Many say the older stuff was easier to work on, but I think that comes from having to work on it all the time, so you learned it by shear repetition, lol
Newer systems just don't need that constant attention so we forget some of the stuff we learn because we just don't have to repeat it all the time
#8
I found two resistors on different 5-150s at the salvage yard yesterday. It sure helped to know that they weren't unique to Rangers. Did a test today... truck did a high idle for about three minutes that was solid. Kicked down the idle, then a minute later, it died. So, no, the resistor was not the problem.
Seems the other half of the code 18 might be a grounded SPOUT circuit. I'll dig into this, but not super good with searching out voltage drops or tearing into wiring. Ready to learn. If I can get some direction, that'd be much appreciated. I know this can be fixed; I just have to find the culprit. Thanks again. Oh, once again: 1986 2.9. Ignition module is a few weeks old. Distributor. cap and rotor and wires... all new or replaced recently.
Thanks so much.
tony
Seems the other half of the code 18 might be a grounded SPOUT circuit. I'll dig into this, but not super good with searching out voltage drops or tearing into wiring. Ready to learn. If I can get some direction, that'd be much appreciated. I know this can be fixed; I just have to find the culprit. Thanks again. Oh, once again: 1986 2.9. Ignition module is a few weeks old. Distributor. cap and rotor and wires... all new or replaced recently.
Thanks so much.
tony
#9
I've replaced the resistor, and I still have an issue. Today's action is that I've tested the voltage on the SPOUT connector while the engine is running. Doesn't equal battery voltage, reads 7 volts or below (I've tested it a couple of times. I guess the next thing is to get into the wiring harness and follow the yellow wire down to the ECM and see if it is grounding somewhere? ? ?
tony
tony
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