Hey guys, I have a freeze plug that is leaking coolant in my '98 b3000. Its not just a little leak either, it's like a stream as if it were pissing the stuff out.
The freezer plug is in line with the front driver side wheel.
I did some reading and found this stuff called blue devil solution that claims to plug up the hole with no risk to the coolant system.
Does this stuff work, and do you think it could plug that big of a leak?
The spot where it's leaking from looks like a serious pain to reach, so I'd rather not take the job on replace the plug (if I even have the skill and tools to do it myself).

Also, when this leak first sprung I was on the hwy and my engine overheated.
The engine wouldnt turn over when I tried for the first week after overheating.
Well I just tried for the first time in several months and the engine started up on the first try, albeit a little rough sounding.

Should i have my engine checked for damage?
I honestly was planning to get a rebuilt engine at this point, but if I can save the money that would help me out tremendously.

the shop I took it to afterwards told me there was likely damage, but they only did a quick spot check job. They saw the leak (didnt even see where it was coming from tho), saw the engine wasnt turning over, and told me to get a new engine or scrap the truck.
Needless to say Im not going back to them again after they screwed me over on a brake job.

 

Since you drove with it overheating you probably did roast the bearings and the shop isnt lying. Since it sounds like the engines boogered it cant hurt to try any of the stop leak products.

Is there coolant in the oil? If so and it was seized most likely is boogered. Could of been hydrolocked due to head crack or blown headgasket. I would not run it till you see what color the oil is - if it looks like chocolate milk ur most likely screwed.

 

Reads like a larger leak so probably won't be stopped by "stop leak" products, but as said it only cost as much as the Product to try it.

BUT...............you most likely blew a head gasket when engine was over heated so fixing the cooling system would, IMO, not be high on the list of things to do first

If engine turns over then do the Glove Test to see if head gasket is blown, its free and easy
Look at post #3 here: https://www.ranger-forums.com/2-9l-3...8/#post2133979

The no crank after overheating is troublesome, but Main Bearings will not unWeld themselves once they are toasted
So when you say, "The engine wouldn't turn over..." do you mean the engine cranked would not START, or that the starter motor couldn't turn the engine, not enough torque to turn a seized engine?

 

never thought of a glove test - thanks for the tip (useful for any water cooled engine) - why do you not want the engine running? I mean if the headgasket is cracked or head starting the vehicle and let it run for 1 minute the glove shouldnt inflate too much due to expanding coolant but would inflate like a balloon with a crack present...

My thought is since it wouldnt crank now magically does it could of been hydrolocked with coolant - letting it sit it finally drained down or evaporated hence my comment on check the oil.

 

Usually there is no liquid coolant left in the engine to leak back into a cylinder after described over heating.

And OP said "engine wouldn't turn over", to him that may mean engine wouldn't start, not wasn't turning, i.e. "engine cranks but won't turn over", words can be confusing, "turn over" means Start in some areas

You can put a glove or balloon, or even a condom, over rad cap opening on running engine and it will inflate if there is a pressure leak in a cylinder
But if you fill up rad and start COLD engine, and water/coolant starts flowing out rad cap opening it is kind of the same test, internal pressure is pushing out water/coolant and shouldn't be

The static Glove test, coil unplugged, is more definitive and can tell you which cylinder(s) are leaking