low gas mileage, erratic idle, and terrible ride
low gas mileage, erratic idle, and terrible ride
my truck is killing me. I can't figure out wy it s running so bad. its always ran so good then all of a sudden horrible gas mileage, erractic idle and a terrible ride. when I drive my truck at like 50 mph it has a terrible engine vibration. I tryed changing the fuel filter ,egr valve, pcv valve, put a new cat converter on still runs like s---. tryed to scan and the guy at the auto parts dealer said Ihave no power to the scan connector don't know what to do.
Chris,
I'm not trying to be an ***, but did you even read my previous response to your same question? I understand your OBDII port isn't working for the scan tool. That shouldn't stop you from eliminating the "conventional" issues that can cause a misfire, which is what your symptoms sound like to me.
Start by reading what I wrote yesterday ( https://www.ranger-forums.com/forum2...ad.php?t=36856 ), then try to eliminate the easy possibilities (plugs, wires, vaccum leaks, MAF, etc.) We realize it's cold out, you are frustrated, etc., but nobody can magically fix your problem over the internet without some real attempt on your part.
You can also search these forums with some keywords like: misfire, miss, rough idle, and whatever terms you can come up with that seem appropriate. Read what the search yields, then try to apply that information to your symptoms. If you don't already have a manual, you should get one.
You need to step up and check the easier stuff. Plugs, wires, spark on each, MAF, PCV, clean the throttle body, run some injector cleaner, check your EGR hoses, check for vaccum leaks, etc. There were issues with the OEM coilpack that might be affecting you, but you should detect that when you verify spark at each plug.
Welcome to R-F.
We'll try to help you.
But you have to help yourself.
Find a buddy with a garage, preferably heated.
Try a different AP store to try to read your codes.
That guy could have been "ability challenged" or his gear was broke.
Report back what you find.
Does your Check Engine light come on when you first turn the key on, before cranking? Is it on when driving?
I'll check back tomorrow. For now, I bumped your thread back to the top and maybe someone else will jump in with a tech assist. I'm sure we have members in your area, at least Detroit metro. Maybe one of them will throw you a rope.
I'm not trying to be an ***, but did you even read my previous response to your same question? I understand your OBDII port isn't working for the scan tool. That shouldn't stop you from eliminating the "conventional" issues that can cause a misfire, which is what your symptoms sound like to me.
Start by reading what I wrote yesterday ( https://www.ranger-forums.com/forum2...ad.php?t=36856 ), then try to eliminate the easy possibilities (plugs, wires, vaccum leaks, MAF, etc.) We realize it's cold out, you are frustrated, etc., but nobody can magically fix your problem over the internet without some real attempt on your part.
You can also search these forums with some keywords like: misfire, miss, rough idle, and whatever terms you can come up with that seem appropriate. Read what the search yields, then try to apply that information to your symptoms. If you don't already have a manual, you should get one.
You need to step up and check the easier stuff. Plugs, wires, spark on each, MAF, PCV, clean the throttle body, run some injector cleaner, check your EGR hoses, check for vaccum leaks, etc. There were issues with the OEM coilpack that might be affecting you, but you should detect that when you verify spark at each plug.
Welcome to R-F.
We'll try to help you.
But you have to help yourself.
Find a buddy with a garage, preferably heated.
Try a different AP store to try to read your codes.
That guy could have been "ability challenged" or his gear was broke.
Report back what you find.
Does your Check Engine light come on when you first turn the key on, before cranking? Is it on when driving?
I'll check back tomorrow. For now, I bumped your thread back to the top and maybe someone else will jump in with a tech assist. I'm sure we have members in your area, at least Detroit metro. Maybe one of them will throw you a rope.
Originally Posted by rideafatboy04
tryed to scan and the guy at the auto parts dealer said Ihave no power to the scan connector don't know what to do.
Do you do a lot of donuts/stunts or bad driving where your engine runs free a lot? You may have a blown head gasket. A bad gasket will send a truck from rock to suck almost instantly. Do you see any smoke at idle or when accelerating? If so, what colour?
I don't think its a blown head gasket. Just put two new heads and valves in, less than a year ago. Plus I have compression. I don't do alot of bad driving either I pretty much baby it. I got over 200000 miles on her. The fuse is fine thanks any how. I put new plugs and wires in, egr and pcv valves are new. I thought it might be the IAC but it does it while driving to. Do you guys think it could be the fuel pump. the last time I had a fuel pump go it just went no warning no nothing. Well back to the garage I will try to use fuel injector cleaner to see If that helps.
Okay tried the fuel injector cleaner no help. I did manage to get the OBDII working (broken wire) Scanned it came up with TPS IAC and missfiring on cylinders 4 and 5 So I'm figuring its the coil pack also. So thanks for the help.
I had the same problem on my 03 2wd Edge. When i bought it, it had 100k, didn't run bad, no smoke. I took it on a 300 mi road trip and when I stopped for a burger, it was idling rough, light blinking. Air filter was the ONLY thing i hadn't check at that point. It was nasty. Replaced it and drove back. Still had that pesky CEL blinking. I replaced the plugs, old ones had the electrode burned into a cone shape. CEL blinking. Went to autozone and checked, #4 was not firing. Replaced the wires. Now i have platinum autolite plugs and bosch wires. Almost bought a new coil, but didn't need it. Just reset the code at autozone, they won't do it, but they'll tell you how, and drive it. After a few good starts and drives, the computer will reset the code and you'll have your idle back. OH.... don't forget to get the electrical contact cleaner for the sensor above your air filter, and fuel injection spray cleaner, NOT carb cleaner. for the mass flow.
I think after 15 years the problem has been taken care of.
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Mar 3, 2011 11:48 AM




