Misfire bucking around 2800rpm
Misfire bucking around 2800rpm
Need some help with my 2002 ranger 3.0 U code.I replaced the camshaft synchronizer today as it started to do that ugly chirping. I set #1 at tdc and used the alignment tool. Now my problem is when I accelerate and rpm gets around 2800 it bucks /hesitates till about 3000-3100rpm and no CEL on. Engine runs smooth other then that. Didnt have this problem prior. Hoping I can get pointed in the right direction.
Thanks in advance.
Thanks in advance.
If you used the tool and you put the engine on TDC, it wasn't on compression.
#1 has to be at TDC and on compression, it's 180 degrees out.
This needs to be checked first at any rate to eliminate that possibility.
#1 has to be at TDC and on compression, it's 180 degrees out.
This needs to be checked first at any rate to eliminate that possibility.
I put my thumb over #1 hole and had someone turn the key till I felt pressure and had them stop then turned the crank till piston was at top. Should I do it over again?
It sounds like you got it right.
TDC being at the "ZERO" mark, not the TDC words on the harmonic balancer.
At any rate it would be close enough.
I turned mine by hand with a compression tester.
Wouldn't turning the key and using the starter be a little difficult ???
Wouldn't it turn to fast to get it right ???
Facing the engine, #1 is on the left front side where the heater box is.
#1 being closest to the rad.
TDC being at the "ZERO" mark, not the TDC words on the harmonic balancer.
At any rate it would be close enough.
I turned mine by hand with a compression tester.
Wouldn't turning the key and using the starter be a little difficult ???
Wouldn't it turn to fast to get it right ???
Facing the engine, #1 is on the left front side where the heater box is.
#1 being closest to the rad.
It sounds like you got it right.
TDC being at the "ZERO" mark, not the TDC words on the harmonic balancer.
At any rate it would be close enough.
I turned mine by hand with a compression tester.
Wouldn't turning the key and using the starter be a little difficult ???
Wouldn't it turn to fast to get it right ???
Facing the engine, #1 is on the left front side where the heater box is.
#1 being closest to the rad.
TDC being at the "ZERO" mark, not the TDC words on the harmonic balancer.
At any rate it would be close enough.
I turned mine by hand with a compression tester.
Wouldn't turning the key and using the starter be a little difficult ???
Wouldn't it turn to fast to get it right ???
Facing the engine, #1 is on the left front side where the heater box is.
#1 being closest to the rad.
https://www.ranger-forums.com/engine...9-3-0v-114186/
TDC is about 5 teeth past the one where there is no tooth.
You 2002 may have a different syncro, but the procedure is the same.
TDC is about 5 teeth past the one where there is no tooth.
You 2002 may have a different syncro, but the procedure is the same.
https://www.ranger-forums.com/engine...9-3-0v-114186/
TDC is about 5 teeth past the one where there is no tooth.
You 2002 may have a different syncro, but the procedure is the same.
TDC is about 5 teeth past the one where there is no tooth.
You 2002 may have a different syncro, but the procedure is the same.
I'm glad that was just the problem, sometimes something gets pulled off reaching back there to get at it.
Depending on how much you drive the truck, I just take the sensor off (with the plug still on) and squirt a bit of "Tri-Flow in there to keep it lubricated.
I do mine at least every 6 months, but it gets driven at least 3 days out of a 7 day work week.
Depending on how much you drive the truck, I just take the sensor off (with the plug still on) and squirt a bit of "Tri-Flow in there to keep it lubricated.
I do mine at least every 6 months, but it gets driven at least 3 days out of a 7 day work week.
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