2.9L & 3.0L V6 Tech General discussion of 2.9L and 3.0L V6 Ford Ranger engines.

Misfire bucking around 2800rpm

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Old Sep 15, 2016
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From: Myrtle Beach
Misfire bucking around 2800rpm

Need some help with my 2002 ranger 3.0 U code.I replaced the camshaft synchronizer today as it started to do that ugly chirping. I set #1 at tdc and used the alignment tool. Now my problem is when I accelerate and rpm gets around 2800 it bucks /hesitates till about 3000-3100rpm and no CEL on. Engine runs smooth other then that. Didnt have this problem prior. Hoping I can get pointed in the right direction.
Thanks in advance.
 
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Old Sep 15, 2016
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If you used the tool and you put the engine on TDC, it wasn't on compression.
#1 has to be at TDC and on compression, it's 180 degrees out.
This needs to be checked first at any rate to eliminate that possibility.
 
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Old Sep 15, 2016
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From: Myrtle Beach
Originally Posted by Jeff R 1
If you used the tool and you put the engine on TDC, it wasn't on compression.
#1 has to be at TDC and on compression, it's 180 degrees out.
This needs to be checked first at any rate to eliminate that possibility.
I put my thumb over #1 hole and had someone turn the key till I felt pressure and had them stop then turned the crank till piston was at top. Should I do it over again?
 
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Old Sep 15, 2016
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From: BC Canada
It sounds like you got it right.
TDC being at the "ZERO" mark, not the TDC words on the harmonic balancer.
At any rate it would be close enough.

I turned mine by hand with a compression tester.
Wouldn't turning the key and using the starter be a little difficult ???
Wouldn't it turn to fast to get it right ???

Facing the engine, #1 is on the left front side where the heater box is.
#1 being closest to the rad.
 
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Old Sep 15, 2016
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From: Myrtle Beach
Originally Posted by Jeff R 1
It sounds like you got it right.
TDC being at the "ZERO" mark, not the TDC words on the harmonic balancer.
At any rate it would be close enough.

I turned mine by hand with a compression tester.
Wouldn't turning the key and using the starter be a little difficult ???
Wouldn't it turn to fast to get it right ???

Facing the engine, #1 is on the left front side where the heater box is.
#1 being closest to the rad.
No "zero" or "tdc" only a small "mark" and the gap between the teeth..yeah turning by hand would be more precise and easier kinda brain dead back to back 20hr work days..
 
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Old Sep 15, 2016
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https://www.ranger-forums.com/engine...9-3-0v-114186/

TDC is about 5 teeth past the one where there is no tooth.
You 2002 may have a different syncro, but the procedure is the same.
 
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Old Sep 15, 2016
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From: Myrtle Beach
Originally Posted by Jeff R 1
https://www.ranger-forums.com/engine...9-3-0v-114186/

TDC is about 5 teeth past the one where there is no tooth.
You 2002 may have a different syncro, but the procedure is the same.
Thank you for all the help..will get back at it in the morning
 
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Old Sep 16, 2016
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[QUOTE=ChrisWit74;2110058]Thank you for all the help..will
 
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Old Sep 16, 2016
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Originally Posted by ChrisWit74
Thank you for all the help..will get back at it in the morning
Again thank you for all the help you were right!! Running great now
 
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Old Sep 16, 2016
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From: BC Canada
I'm glad that was just the problem, sometimes something gets pulled off reaching back there to get at it.
Depending on how much you drive the truck, I just take the sensor off (with the plug still on) and squirt a bit of "Tri-Flow in there to keep it lubricated.
I do mine at least every 6 months, but it gets driven at least 3 days out of a 7 day work week.
 
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