My Ranger is sick and I don't know whats wrong.. - Ranger-Forums - The Ultimate Ford Ranger Resource


2.9L & 3.0L V6 Tech General discussion of 2.9L and 3.0L V6 Ford Ranger engines.

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  #1  
Old 12-18-2007
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My Ranger is sick and I don't know whats wrong..

I'm not sure if this should go here or in another section of the forum so move it if need be. When I was on my way home from work today I noticed that when I applied the brakes and some almost to a stop my truck would act like it was still wanting to go foward. Almost like the gas was still being pushed. So when I pulled onto my road I came to a stop and put it in park. I could hear it idleing very fast like I had my foot on the gas then I would hear and kinda feel a popping sound and the idle would drop slightly then go right back up again. This kept on happening over and over. I pushed in the brake and put the truck in drive and then let out of the brake. Without giving it any gas my truck took off down the road doing like 25 to 30mph without me ever touching the gas. Does anyone have a clue what might be causing this to happen? Oh yeah I guess I should say I have a 2000 model Ranger 3.0 FF with automatic trans.
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Old 12-18-2007
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sounds like your IAC is bad. Or maybe even torque converter.
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Old 12-18-2007
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I dont want to sound dumb or anything, but what exactly is an IAC? I am hopeing that it isnt anything to costly as I dont have a lot of money at the moment.
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Old 12-18-2007
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I believe... Idle Air Control......It kinda controls the idle. And If you got an auto and the Idle is way too high....The IAC can cause your problem. I think it's like a $60 ford part. Something like that.
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Old 12-18-2007
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Ok thanks for that info. Does anyone else have a clue what could be causing my problem?
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Old 12-18-2007
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+1 IAC and possibly a major vacuum leak.
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Old 12-18-2007
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had this problem a few months back. check the Mass Air Sensor. after your air box. i played with my gas line and fuel injectors for days thinking i had dirt in it. and all along it was the sensor. ford had to reprogram my computer after replacing the sensor.

any chance of getting water in you air fliter? thats what did it for me. FIPK + MUD = TROUBLE!
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Old 12-18-2007
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+2 Iac.
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Old 12-18-2007
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locate you IDLE AIR CONTROLL and open it and clean with carb cleaner works like a charm and will save you $60 dealer fee..... i did it on my truck runs like new

try to use gumout carb cleaner cause it sensor safe

THIS IS WHAT YOUR IAC LOOKS LIKE REMOVE THIS AND CLEAN
[IMG][/IMG]
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Old 12-18-2007
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red x.
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Old 12-18-2007
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Thanks for all the input on this guys! Can anyone point me to where the IAC is located on my truck? I will definatly give cleaning it a try and I will also check that Mass Air Sensor.
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Old 12-19-2007
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lol besides all of what these guys say because my truck used to do that and i was trying to figure out why and one of my floor mats was on my gas pedal XD lol but if not then go with what these guys say!
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Old 12-19-2007
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pic from two years ago when i was having the same problem....That is the IAC on a 4.0L SOHC intake....should be in about the same area on your 3.0L.

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Old 12-19-2007
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Ok thanks for the pic. I found the IAC on my truck and took it off to inspect it. The side with the sping in it has a lot of black carbon build up I guess it is with white specs in it as well. The other side with the sensor has some pretty bad build up all over the sensor. I understand how this IAC can cause the idle problem, but how does it effect the truck when I put it in drive and it seems like the gas is pushed in but its not? Is the IAC still working even when it's not in park?
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Old 12-19-2007
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The IAC effects the way the engine is running....period. When you drive down the road....the rpms are higher than idle....when you coast toward a stop, and the engine stays at the higher rpm...there's the iac sticking. And since you have an auto, and the engine rpm is high...the engine will still "pull" even when you are off the throttle...because the iac is sticking.

I have a manual....and I ususally cruise around town at 2500-3000 rpm......and when i slow down to a stop, push in clutch...the engine will stay at that rpm until i'm just about completely stopped. That's what mine did.

Above is what i make benefit from the cultural/technical learnings of the ranger of forums.com.
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  #16  
Old 12-20-2007
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Your going to have to get all the carbon out of it and especially where the valve and it's seat are. If the valve don't seal you will have trouble. I just cleaned mine yesterday and it still had some carbon. It did help it and I will take it off and clean it again. Maybe I can save the $60 if I can get the valve to seat. Mine don't stick, it just don't seat and seal off the chamber.
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