Need tongue specs
#2
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#4
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It does read like a fuse issue, or ignition switch is not sending power to the fuse
Ignition switch under the steering column was a known issue in mid to late 1980's, it would split, you could see the gap in its side, can often use zap straps to hold it together
When you turn on the key the ignition switch powers the cab fuse box fuses, via 2 to 4 wires, so groups of fuses are powered by 1 wire in most cases, with key on
I don't have a fuse diagram for 1987, but with key on ALL fuses in the cab fuse box should have 12volts
So pull out each fuse and test if one of its slots has 12volts, to see if all fuses have 12volts with key on
If not then that may be the issue
If all fuse have 12volts then could be the wire on the back of the cluster
There is just one wire on cluster that powers those 3 gauges, volts, oil and fuel, also temp I think
The Battery Light has direct power from the ignition switch, no fuse, so it should come on
Ignition switch under the steering column was a known issue in mid to late 1980's, it would split, you could see the gap in its side, can often use zap straps to hold it together
When you turn on the key the ignition switch powers the cab fuse box fuses, via 2 to 4 wires, so groups of fuses are powered by 1 wire in most cases, with key on
I don't have a fuse diagram for 1987, but with key on ALL fuses in the cab fuse box should have 12volts
So pull out each fuse and test if one of its slots has 12volts, to see if all fuses have 12volts with key on
If not then that may be the issue
If all fuse have 12volts then could be the wire on the back of the cluster
There is just one wire on cluster that powers those 3 gauges, volts, oil and fuel, also temp I think
The Battery Light has direct power from the ignition switch, no fuse, so it should come on
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