I have a 93 ranger 3.0 auto 4x4 single cab lwb. It will not go into overdrive. I’ve read about the solenoids and believe that to be it. Which one(s) do I need to test and how do I go about it? I assume using a dmm, adds tapping into the leads by checking resistance. Got any numbers they should read depending on the state they are in? Thanks!

 

You have an A4LD automatic in a 1993 Ranger

It will have a 3 wire connector on drivers side just in front of the shifter
The center wire has 12v with key on, it is shared by the 2 solenoids inside
The 2 outside wires are the grounds for each solenoid, these wires run back to the computer

Look in the lower right here: https://www.explorerforum.com/forums...sgo.39537/full

Picture of 3 wire connector on transmission
From center tab to either outside tab you should see 20-30 OHMs if solenoid's coil wire is OK

Also test if the center(red) wire on the truck side of connector has 12volts with key on

The ground wires on the computer are pin 14 is TCC solenoid, and pin 51 is 3-4 shift(OD) solenoid

 

Thank you, when I have time I will report back my findings. Will most likely be this weekend

 

I checked the 12volt on the connector to both grounds when key is on acc, got 12.xx volts. Then checked for resistance on both. I got .106 on both. What’s the next step? I’m assuming to drop the pan and pull the solenoids. Then before ordering new ones, check both for resistance. Directly on solenoid’s terminals. If still bad, then replace, if good then run new wiring to the connector? Again, your input has been much appreciated.

 

UPDATE: just pulled the pan, haven’t removed solenoids but disconnected wires from terminals. Tested the terminals and got 0 resistance. I’ll wait for your response, but I bet I’ll have o/d when these are replaced. Thanks man.

 

So there is a short on the internal wiring harness?

OHMs should have been 20-30, so .1 would indicate a short

Yes that would be why no OD, but computer should have set a code for that???

Test the solenoids as well, disconnected from harness if possible, as said, should see 20-30 ohms

 

I did not have a check engine light on. Noticed my tach stuck at 3000 rpm and didn’t feel 3-4. 1-2,2-3 were fine though. I disconnected the terminals (they were connected) from the solenoids, but didn’t physically removed them. Tested the terminals on the solenoids while they were still physically installed (just not electrically connected). Would that have made a difference in results if it was out of vehicle? I assumed it would not. On a side note, any tips on removing them, haven’t looked it up yet. I removed 2 bolts on one of them and 1 on the other. Removed the trans filter as well. Thanks buddy.

 

Yes, you test the solenoids when unhooked from vehicles main harness, between each solenoids 2 wires you should see 20-30 ohms

They share one wire, center tab on outside connector, so between that center tab and each outside tab you should have seen 20 to 30 ohms

 

Just ordered the solenoids. Planned to rob the engine and use it in a 99. Can’t justify robbing the truck when that’s all it needs. After this project is done, gunna sell and then I’ll be looking into replacing the engine in the 99, or rebuilding it lol. Kinda thought of swapping a v8, but just want a daily and less work lol.

 

Man buddy i was sweating about your issue. I always thought bad shift solenoids totalled an auto transmission. Maybe thats just on the chevy S10?