What's the normal oil pressure for a 3.0? I'm looking into getting a oil pressure gauge but I want the needle in the middle if possible. I'm gonna say 15 psi? but thats just a guess haha.

 

couldnt tell you since the ones on our trucks are not accurate, but free bump, i know some people on here have the oil pressure gauge

 

It varies with oil viscosity, oil temperature and RPM, among other things. The manual doesn't give a pressure range but a good SWAG might be about 15~50 psi under normal conditions. I would get a 0~100 PSI gauge - that should put the needle somewhere near midscale on the highway and in the lower range at idle.

 

I just installed a electric GlowShift oil pressure gadge in my 1999 3.0 ranger that has 166k miles after driving it hard on the highway for 40 minutes at idle my oil pressure psi is 13psi around 750rmp at around 2500rpm it is around 45psi cold starts it’s at 63psi

 

I believe I read somewhere in a service bulletin that "normal" oil pressure should be around 40psi @ 2500 rpm after 15 minutes of operating temperature with the specified oil.

 

Some thread highjack questions....if I may.
What's a good brand of oil gauge? This and a volt meter are the only gauges I ever wanted to install.
I assume most oil gauges, if not all, are electric.
Where is the port (?) for the sensor on a 4.0l SOHC?
Can a T be installed to have both light and gauge?

 

You can use a "T" if you want to keep the factory gauge active. They still make oil gauges that use an oil line. Many do not recommend using them due to possible leaking inside the cab. I myself have never had a problem with such currently. They are a bit easier to install. The only electric required for them is for the backlight. The electric oil gauges are the safer way to go but require a little more wiring knowhow. I have used Sun brand and Bosch brand with no complaints.

 

May not be a port. I don’t have a 4.0 but I do have a 3.0pretty similar. The oil pressure sending unit is behind and below the dizzy. Only bout 3/4” space between block & firewall, a bitch to get to, don’t recommend hooking up there. I Used a sandwich plate under oil filter from EBay has two ports 1/8” & 1/4” pipe. cost about $25. Used an Autometer electric and an A-pillar 2 gauge pod with an Autometer volt meter. The whole job cost about $100. Have 20 psi @ 900 rpm w/20w50 full synthetic.
Larry

 

Oil Pressure Test
SPECIAL SERVICE TOOL(S) REQUIRED
Description
Tool Number: Engine Oil Pressure Gauge T73L-6600-A
1. Disconnect and remove the oil pressure sensor (9278) from the engine.
2. Connect Engine Oil Pressure Gauge T73L-6600-A and Transmission Test Adapter D87C-77000-A, or
equivalent, to the oil pressure sender screw port.
3. Run the engine until normal operating temperature is reached.
4. Run the engine at 3,000 rpm and record the gauge reading.
5. The oil pressure should be:

250-490 kPa (36-71 psi) at 3,000 rpm.
6. If the oil pressure is not within specification, check the following possible sources:
Insufficient oil
Oil leakage
Worn or damaged oil pump
Clogged oil pump screen cover and tube (6622)
Excessive main bearing clearance
Excessive connecting rod bearing clearance

 

Old post but your reply to this was the first I saw using a sandwich plate to run your oil gauge after hours looking through facebook and the forums. I'm doing this on my 99 Ranger XLT 5sp 2wd mainly had my glowshift gauges for oil pressure and water temp I salvaged from my 07 Mazda 3 after I totaled it and also barely trust the temperamental gauges on the dash. Just curious did you have any issues with the install and where on the firewall you ran wires through? I know this is an old thread but hoping you see this if you do and maybe have install pics that would be awesome.

 

[QUOTE=505kamryn;2190832]I just installed a electric GlowShift oil pressure gadge in my 1999 3.0 ranger that has 166k miles after driving it hard on the highway for 40 minutes at idle my oil pressure psi is 13psi around 750rmp at around 2500rpm it is around 38 psi cold starts it’s at 63psi (update) my old engine started having oil pressure issues got as low as 29psi at 2500rpm on highway I ended up getting a new long block from oreilly powertorque engines it now has 5000 miles on the new engine an using 5w30 synthetic blend according to my glowshift electric gadge my oil pressure at hot idle is now 24psi an at 2500rpm on highway lowst I seen it hover around 42-44 psi at 2500rpm 40 minutes on the highway so far this long block runs pretty good I'm changing the oil on it every 3k miles feel free to check my ranger out on YouTube at https://youtube.com/@kamryn7496?si=_VUsBPEGpWuWDCrY

 

Oil pressure is the oil the engine can't use/pass thru at any given moment or RPM, its Back Pressure

The oil pump creates a flow of oil thru the filter and then thru the main oil passages and out thru the bearings and valve train
Since the bearings are very narrow openings only a little oil can flow out, so the oil backs up in the main passages, and that's the "Oil Pressure" you can read on a gauge
General rule of thumb is 10psi per 1,000rpms
So at idle of 700rpm 7psi would be fine
At 4,000rpm 40psi
Anything above 3psi can overcome gravity to lube the upper engines valve train, under that and you can get "ticking", at 0psi you get overheated bearings, a bad thing

The pump volume flow increases alot with RPM but the bearings don't need that much more oil at higher RPMs so the Back Pressure goes up with RPMs
If back pressure gets into the 80psi range and up you can get "washout" at the bearings, the pressure actually dries out a bearing and it overheats, and then "knock, knock, knock"

Too Low oil pressure is under 5psi
Too High oil pressure is 80psi

 

Not sure what the OP is going to do when the reman engine starts reading 11 psi at idle in another 10,000 miles.

 

Hey i know this is a old thread and forgive me im new to these forums, but I just installed a mechanical oil pressure gauge in my 3.0 ranger and grounded out the old wire so its not part of the system anymore but i am reading 8-9 psi of oil pressure at operating temp, at 2,000 rpm im at 45 psi i have been trying to find a straight answer is if this is okay or not. I run 10w30 high mileage and have bled the copper tube going to the gauge, there is no valve train chatter, so it is getting oil i just need to know if its enough. Thanks guys!

 

Nothing wrong with 8 psi at idle on a warm engine.

 

thanks i appreciate it, alot of relief!!