So I went down to my auto parts store and rented a pilot bearing removal tool for my 1989 ranger. I had tried to use a washer bolt and pull it off that way. No go. The pulling tool appears to not fit in the inner diameter of the roller pilot bearing. Frustrating to say the least.....I really do not want to pull the flywheel. Anyone know how this is accomplished? The picture shows the replacement bearing and the tool that does not fit!

 

If that's a rental I'd take it back. It's too big for your bearing. Maybe they have a smaller one? Or a slide hammer attachment that would fit?
if you owned the tool I'd just say grind down the flanges just a lil bit. Maybe a millimeter narrower and it should fit.

 

If the old bearing isn't mangled, do the bread trick, just make sure you have a socket that fits snug into the bearing without any gaps. Stick a small extension in the socket and use that to hammer into the bread. You'll have to put the bread through the hole in the socket until eventually it fills up enough and the bearing starts to move. I used to be skeptical of the method until I tried it out of desperation and it really does work most of the time unless the bearing is destroyed or severely corroded.

 

I've used heavy grease using this method, but never heard of using bread, that's a new one !
One could use old Christmas cookies on Boxing day or what to do with the Halloween pumpkin.

The puller in the photo should work if the fingers that grab the bearing are detachable from the puller, this would allow the insertion of one of the fingers, and then the other one _ or so it should.

 

This is the puller that worked great for me with my 98 3.0..Autozone rental program.

 

That style only tends to work well when it's brand new and hasn't been mangled in the rental program. lol. If you get one that is rounded off from heavy use, it will just keep slipping out.

 

To be fair, I was the first user on this one. I took the wrapper off the box.

 

Exactly, but even that's not a guarantee. I recently put ball joints on a friend's truck, and he brought me a brand new ball joint press in the wrapper. I pulled the wrapper, opened the kit up, and there were no sleeves in it. Had to use a Dana 44 spindle nut socket instead.

 

Fordzilla, you are my hero. If you ever get to Wyoming I owe you a hot coffee or a cold beverage of your choice! The BREAD trick...worked like a charm. Next question...would you do anything to this flywheel? Hand sand with. 220 grit to clean it up?

 

Haha, I'm glad it worked for you! I used to be skeptical of it until I tried it and was amazed as well when it actually worked.

As for the flywheel, are you just putting a new pilot bearing in, and re-using the old clutch? If so, just wash it down with brake clean and let it dry. Sanding the flywheel is old school tech and it's something that is heavily disputed in the auto industry. I personally prefer to re-surface my flywheels before installing a new clutch.

 

New clutch, throw out bearing and rebuilt transmission from Midwest transmission in Minnesota. They said to use 10w30 engine oil instead of 80/90 gear oil which seems odd. Also, in the 4x4 transfer case to use ATF. So I guess I will follow those recommendations? Looking forward to get this going. The old Mitsubishi 5speed was cracked on the lower case and has been sitting since 2005. Has the v6 2.9 l engine, in good shape! Only real issue otherwise is the paint coming off in spots.

 

nice. That 2.9L and the 4.0L are the same engine I just learned. They just increased the piston area. But original block is the same.

 

I've personally never heard of engine oil in the transmission. Transmission fluid, yes. I'd do a little more research on that claim.