I have a 87 ranger 2.9 v6 just put a new clutch plate and pressure plate in it! Can't get it to comeout of second gear?

 

Common issue

When you remove the shifter the transmission MUST BE in NEUTRAL, yours wasn't

Remove shifter again
Look down inside the hole, you should see 3 "slots" on the shift Rails, the end of the shifter sits in those slots
Block a tire so truck can't roll
You need to get all 3 slots to line up in the center of the hole, that's Neutral, so truck can roll
Its "in gear" right now, so there may be pressure on that slot so it can be hard to move, may have to rock the truck forward and back, and/or push clutch pedal down to release the pressure

When in Neutral the shifter can move side to side a long way, that's because the slots are lined up

 

Ok this is what I'm looking at after I pull the shifter

 

Could it possibly be the shift solenoid?

 

Your truck has an older Mitsubishi transmission in it, which appears to be the FM-145, which uses a single shift shaft vs the later M5OD-R1 that became common in most all rangers, and standard by 93, which uses the "3 slots" that Ron mentioned

To get it out of gear, manipulate that cylindrical tube that has the notch in it. It should slide "up or down" or rather front to back, to select between 1st and 2nd. You said your truck was in 2nd so it should move up or down.
Once you have popped it out of gear, you should then be able to move the tube into the center of the housing. If you'd prefer, you can carefully place the shifter stem back into the receiver tube that's pictured in the trans, and then carefully manipulate it back to neutral that way.

 

Ok thank you glad I don't have to rebuild or replace my transmission! Will let you know if I'm able to get it back out of gear thank agina for your help!

 

If it does not come out of gear?

 

But I have also looked into the synchronizer ring in the transmission

 

Then you will need to rock the truck forward and back to release rear wheel tension holding it "in gear"

Sorry for the goof on model year and trans model, oops

All manual transmissions are setup so you can never select 2 gears at the same time
You must shift to Neutral FIRST, so no gear is engaged, and then you can shift into another gear
Even when you shift from 1st to 2nd you don't go directly from 1st to 2nd, you go from 1st to Neutral, and then to 2nd

 

Ok I have had to start it in gear once or twice if that may have some cause in it?

 

If it's been ran in gear, then it might be harder to disengage. Remember that there is probably some weight on the gearset. Also keep in mind that the shifter is a gigantic fulcrum, and shift effort might be quite considerable when trying to manipulate the shift shaft directly at the transmission. I presume the transmission does disengage while the clutch is depressed, and no power is transferred from the engine to the wheels. If you are careful, you could try lining the shifter up with the shift shaft and then using the shifter to pop it out of gear. So long as nothing was damaged or bent when the shifter was first removed/replaced and you discovered the trans did not shift out of gear, then I don't see why 2nd could not be disengaged after some fanagaling.

 

I would of said the exact same thing. It's not often you come across the Mitsu/Toyo transmissions.

 

Ok the transmission shows to be in neutral and only goes into overdrive and reverse?

 

But if you put it neutral and try to start it the truck still trys to pull in gear

 

I bought the truck over two years ago I knew I was going to have to put some money into it, I've now got alittle over 5k in it! The truck only had 86.000 miles on it had been overhaued then sat for four almost five years before I got it the day I checked it out just useing a good battery no new fulids or anything it started right off no problems!

 

If you start the truck and it moves with the clutch engaged, then it is still in gear. OD would immediately stall the truck, reverse obviously would not.

If you remove the shifter again, with the truck not engaging reverse or OD, manipulate that shaft you previously pictured. If it is only working OD/R, the shaft should be pointed to one side. It should then be able to move left or right (driver to passenger)

With the clutch depressed (might need two people to do this) try and engage all 5 forward gears, and your reverse gear. When you get to the "middle two" which should be 3 and 4, center the shaft there, and try again with the shifter installed. I'm willing to bet its just not where it needs to be and it might just take a little bit of messing around to get it right. I am not sure if yours "self centers" but a lot of shift mechanisms will more or less indicate center by popping out of detents or spring tension. Again, since I don't have the truck in front of me, and my knowledge of the Mitsu FM series of transmissions is limited, this is all speculation on my part.

 

Thank you very much again I'm just glad I don't have to tear into the transmission

 

Thank you Ron for the help! I have got it out of gear and everything working right! You've been alot of help

 

One last question for ya Ron? I've now got it out of gear when I drive it it will not go into first gear?

 

When down shifting(still rolling) or when Stopped?

If its when stopped then you still have air in clutch hydraulic system

 

Both really

 

And if it's rolling?

 

Transmission gears rotate at rear wheel speed, there is no disconnect, so transmission RPMs are wheel RPMs

The clutch disconnects Engine RPMs from transmission RPMs

If engine is idling at say 750rpms and you are stopped, then when you use the clutch the clutch disc MUST slow down to 0 RPMs to put transmission into any gear because all gears are at 0 RPMs
If clutch disc is rubbing on flywheel or pressure plate then its very hard for it to slow down to 0 RPMs, hard to "get into gear"

If you are rolling then transmission RPMs are not 0 so it can be easier to change gears even if clutch disc is rubbing a little

Hydraulic fluid doesn't compress when pressure is applied, so pressure at master is transferred to slave and that fully releases the clutch disc so it can slow down
Air does compress under pressure, so any air in the system will mean less movement at the slave, so clutch disc is not fully released and it rubs, making it hard to "match" transmission RPMs

If only 1st is effected and not Reverse(or other gears), then it could be a transmission issue, shift fork maybe, but need to rebuild trans to see

 

Thanks again! I kinda thought I might end up having to rebuild the transmission! Dreading that cuz it's something I've never done before! You have been the most help I've had sence I started this thing a year ago! You help me with a no start problem then! Thank so much!