I have 2002 ford ranger edge 3.0 auto trans 210k miles. I have bad fuel economy. I get 180 miles to a fuel tank no matter how grandmaish i drive. And have rough running engine idle and while driving. Especially can feel it in the steering wheel. Replaced spark plugs, wires, o2 sensors, fuel filter, iac valve, MAF sensor, So im pretty sure its fuel injectors. I only have evap code p0457 but was told has nothing to do with it. I'm thinking clogged fuel injectors. I tried fuel additives, they kinda helped my sputtering engine at idle but still have shaking/vibrating and bad fuel economy. Pls help im running through my pockets with all this gas!!! I just did a code scan and I have codes p0455(evap gross leak) and p0171(bank 1 lean)

 

Odd you are not getting misfire codes as well

If you don't have a long history with this truck/engine then yes, it could have sat for a longer period which can cause clogged injectors
210k miles is only 11k a year, 970/month, but its not that low

I would expect lean code with clogged injector, but not low MPG, but possibly since lower power means heavier gas pedal foot to stay at speed

You can pull injectors and have them tested but at that point its just easier to pay the $25/each to have them rebuilt and tested


When you have a poor running gasoline engine, first thing would be to test vacuum, 18-21" is expected at warm idle, lower can mean loss of compression
So next step is a compression test, all 6 cylinders<<<<this is pretty much required so you don't waste money
On a 3.0l expected is 165psi, if a few are lower that 140psi then that's the problem
Compression is a black and white mechanical function, good or bad, no grey area, and can't be fixed by any thing but head removal and "valve job", which is why its best to test it and take it off the table FIRST, because if it is a compression issue you will waste alot of money and time on non-fixes

Compression test
Cold engine, battery in good condition
All spark plugs removed FIRST
Test 1 cylinder at a time
Crank engine with throttle WIDE OPEN, you will hear each time testing cylinder "hits" compression stoke, need 5 or 6 "hits" to get good compression number
Write down results
Test next cylinder

If its a V6 add up the results from the 4 "medium" cylinders, so don't use Highest or Lowest cylinders
Divide by 4 and that's your average, needs to be above 150psi
If you have 2 or 3 "lower" cylinders then add up just the higher ones including the highest and divide by number of cylinders used

If a cylinder is 15psi lower that the average its a problem

 

So I should start with compression test? And Also don't I have to remove the intake manifold to get to the injectors? Or at least three? Because there is 3 connectors on passenger side and thats it. And is there a site that I can go to for injector service?

 

I also took a look at the fuel trim numbers and it looks like bank2 is running lean but theres no code. At idle fuel trim for bank 2 is 7-9% then when i accelerate it immediately jumps to 12-14 percent. (This is long term fuel trim) also c3100 code has popped up. IDK what what means.

 

Those are normal fuel trims, Lean or Rich codes are not set until +/- 15% or higher are maintained for awhile, and repeat a few times
+/- 10% at idle is OK, engine systems age so there will be changes in fuel pressure and small air leaks nothing that would cause misfires
Acceleration requires more fuel to be added, + fuel trims reflect that

Fuel trim is the average Open Time for each injector, computer calculates 0 fuel trim(short term, STFT), based on engine size, RPMs, MAF data, air temp and throttle position, it then looks for O2 sensor voltage to see if that calculation was correct
If O2 shows higher oxygen levels, lean, computer opens injector 2% longer, +2 STFT, then 4%, then ect......until O2 sensor shows correct oxygen levels
This takes a few seconds so engine was never actually "running" lean

Long term Fuel trims(LTFT) are different, so computer doesn't have to "guess" STFT each time its started up LTFT is saved in memory, so if LTFT average is +5% then computer uses that in its 0 STFT calculation
So in the case of 5% LTFT, STFT 0 would actually be +5% but show as 0 STFT

Watching LTFT values in real time won't tell you much since downstream O2 is part of that number

OBD codes have a Prefix
P = Power train codes, so engine or transmission
B = Body codes, electrical for lights, airbags, and other "body" system not related to power train
C = Chassis codes, usually ABS or traction control related
U = Network codes

Did see a C3100 code relating to Brake pedal switch, but not related to engine operation

 

Is there a website or something that I can send the injectors to? Don't I have to take the intake manifold off to get to the other injectors?

 

Never pulled the fuel rail on a 3.0l so can't say for sure
I would think you would have to pull the upper intake to pull out the fuel rail on drivers side
Pull fuel pump relay or fuel pump fuse and then start the engine, when it dies pressure in fuel rail will be 0psi, this will set a fuel pump code so clear it when done servicing injectors

Yes, do a compression test, FIRST, as described to either take compression off the table or find out it is the problem so you don't waste time and money on non-fixes

Google: fuel injector rebuilders "name of your town"

Call local "speed shops" they will know if there are any local injector rebuilders

 

Sucks I can't find any rebuilders in my area. All I find are websites to send the injectors to. I will do compression test tomorrow.

 

Well I did compression test and the average was 173.75 and cylinder numbers were,160,165,170,180,180,180

 

I think were good

 

Nice, good work

Since I assume you have changed spark plugs and made sure the firing order is correct, then next stop would be fuel delivery

If nothing local find an on-line supplier for fuel injectors, you usually need to pay a deposit that's refunded when they get your old injectors back, so make sure they have good reviews for returning the deposit

If new/rebuilt injectors don't solve the issue you will need to change computer, there is no test for computers, you just have to eliminate everything else first, and then its new computer time

 

Do I have multi port fuel injectors? I need to make sure I buy the right ones

 

You are running sequential fuel injection but can also be called multi-port, just means you have more than 1 fuel injector on the engine, its not a "type of injector", its a method of fuel delivery

You need to look at your VIN, 8th digit will be a "U" or a "V" if 3.0l engine
U = gasoline only injectors
V = ethanol and gasoline injectors, flex fuel
They are different sizes, so a big deal for the computer

Stock injectors were Bosch brand I believe

 

How much should i be spending? I really can't afford paying 40-60$ per injector thats ridiculous. I see new ones for 20-30 which is where i'm at.

 

Yes, its generally $25 each to rebuild injectors, so the lower price is most likely "exchange", seller sends you 6 rebuilt injectors and you send them your 6 in exchange so they can rebuild them and sell to someone else

Injectors can fail electrically but they are usually just clogged up so rebuild is "good as new"

 

I'm getting the tools together for the job to remove the intake manifold but not 100% sure how to remove it. I know I have to relieve fuel pressure, remove intake tube, and remove throttle body. I see on the repair manual it says remove ignition coil pack? Not sure but i see the bolts on the fuel rail are at a weird angle. I don't have to drain coolant for just upper manifold right?

 

No you do not need to drain coolant to take the upper intake manifold off. I had to remove it when I replaced my leaky valve cover gaskets.

 

Well ron, after replacing fuel injecors my long term fuel trim numbers went way up. 23 and 15. Help...

 

Are they the correct size for the engine/computer?
Computer is programmed for injector size, if you put in a smaller injector then computer calculations will be off, so it has to ADD more fuel, +15 or high fuel trims
A Flex Fuel computer is programmed for larger injectors, so if you put in "gas only" injectors it would show +15 or high trims

Or did a gasket or vacuum hose not get sealed well and you have a vacuum leak, this is more likely

After engine is warmed up, let it idle and unplug the IAC Valve
Engine should drop to 500rpm, barely running, or stall, either is good, it means no vacuum leaks
If idle stays high then there is a leak

 

Well after some driving the fuel trims came down but don't think my problem is solved🤬. Trim 1 is 1-2% and fuel trim 2 is 6 percent. These are good numbers but I don't feel any difference in engine vibration. Idk maybe its just me, a friend of mine who has pretty good experience in cars said it was normal. I disagree. I guess we will see if gas mileage goes up

 

Could it be timing chain? Sometimes At idle there's a very very faint knock/metal to metal noise in the engine. Like the metal to metal/knock will sound for 10 seconds then go away. Then come back. Not sure though. But when I pulled the intake off there was lots of oil residue. Somebody had definitely done some valve cover gasket work. Because it definitely looked like the truck was leaking oil at one point. Could it be timing off a bit or something?

 

Also found the there's some play in the power steering pully. Don't think that has anything to do with it though.

 

You can wait until engine is STONE COLD
Then pull off fan belt and start the engine
There is NO water pump so you can only run the engine for 1 minute maybe 2 before you need to shut it OFF

But see if vibration is gone
If so then its coming from an accessory, like P/S pump or ???

 

Idk why but fuel trim numbers went back up to 13 and 19. Still lean

 

Would shaking power steering pulley really cause WHOLE engine to shake?