My 1989 ranger pickup has been sitting idle for 16 years. It has the v six, 2.9 liter, 5 speed with the transfer case and lockout hubs. Odometer is 160,000 miles. The body is clean, good glass, a topper, and even good tires. It even starts and runs...it drove in all gears and is smooth except for the clutch...it makes a Kind of grinding rattle type noise. I am sure it is either the throw out or pilot bearing.. I will try myself to replace clutch, slave cylinder and bearings. Looking at online videos I think the steps are:

drop rear and front drivelines
remove starter
remove electric connector to tranny
remove clutch cable
drain transmission...is this necessary?
drain transfer case...is this necessary?
loosen bell housing to engine bolts
remove crossmember with tranny supported....do I remove 4x4 transfer case first or keep them together?
lower tranny with bell housing on jack.


replace parts

reverse.

ARE wrench sizes English or metric?

i think I need a special “12 point” wrench for rear joint.

any help or references much appreciated.

Andy in Wyoming

 

Dropped the rear of driveshaft. Wondering if I should remove front from transfer case output or if I can leave attached. Clearly to remove the transmission to access clutch it looks like I need to remove the 4x4 transfer case.

i guess I need to remove the borg Warner Xperia’s case first. Wondering if it is necessary to drain fluid? Tried to remove the skid plate under the xfercase but 3/8 inch socket to small and 7/16 inch to big so I am guessing the four bolts holding skid plate are metric? Wonder if all the bolts throughout are metric? Anyone know?

 

I just did the job on my 98. Everything is metric. If it’s “between” 3/8 and 7/16, try 10 mm.

draining the fluid accomplishes a few things

1. Lowers the weight of the transmission
2. reduces the risk of an accidental mess on your driveway
3. gets you nice fresh fluid when you’re done.

I have heard of people leaving the transfer case attached to the transmission but I think it’s easier to separate them. Keeps it from spinning on you and, again, less weight.

If you don’t have one already, I suggest that you grab a shop manual.

good luck to you

 

Major observation. Tailshaft has crack.
Does anyone know if this is a Mitsubishi or Mazda transmission? Cannot find tag.

Where could I possibly find a replacement tailshaft?
it is to a 4x4 transfer case.

i have a same year ranger, 1989, 2 week drive. Also with five speed. Any chance it would swap over?


Could this be repaired/welded?

Andy

 

Correction tailshaft housing. Wonder transmission still shifted okay. I drove it a mile last weekend.....no oil whatsoever in xmission case!

 

It can be welded but it's cast aluminum so not really recommended. You would be better replacing it. No oil is not good but at least it's a manual trans and you only drove 1 mile. Should be fine.

 

I had a hole in my Volvo oil pan and cleaned it with solvent and then oozed jbweld into it and has been fine for over two years. May try something similar.

 

I have pretty much decided the tranny and clutch must come out. I seem to have an issue getting the rear Hal that is broken out. Got the transfer case out and started to slide the tailshaft housing off but it only goes about an inch. Hanging up somewhere. Anyone seen this? Solutions? Getting those bolts off the bell housing is a real pita but I am almost there. The two at the top appear to be 16 mm while the others are 17 mm. Need a super long extension wrench on the exhaust (passenger) side. Clutch line off. Almost there but am still going to have to remove that rear housing. Ideas?.

andy