RPM low and squealing
I have a 2006 sport 2wd. I was driving the other day and my Rpms dropped from normal driving levels to about 750-1000 and my motor started to make a very loud squeal, so i pulled over and shut off the truck and started it up again and the squeal was louder and the rpms were even lower and it i tried to hit the gas the truck would rev to 1500 and stay there but when i let off the gas the truck would sputter and almost die then go back to about 700 rpm. any ideas on what could be the issue??
Welcome to the forum
The squealing is the fan belt, so may need a new one and maybe a new tensioner for the belt
The low RPM caused the squealing, so you need to find the cause of the low RPM
You need a Volt/OHM Meter, $10 volt/ohm meter will save you hundreds of dollars over the years
First, just to take it off the table, test battery voltage, key off, 12.3 to 12.8 volts is acceptable range for a car/truck battery, 12.2v or lower means there is a battery or alternator problem
Test it, even if you got a new battery this morning, lol
Fuel injected engines all use an air valve to control idle RPMs
Ford calls theirs an IAC(idle air control) Valve
Your 2006 2.3l Ranger IAC Valve looks like this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/1113873-Idl...-/222610916191
It is located on the on the upper intake manifold next to the throttle plate/cable
It has 2 wires connected, unplug the 2 wires and use volt meter, set to 20vDC, to test if they show over 11volts with key on, engine off
Then test IAC Valve's pins with OHM meter set to lowest scale, 200OHMs, should show 9 to 10 ohms, then test either connector to metal case of the IAC Valve should be NC, no connection, or ohm meter value doesn't change, stays at 1
If everything tests OK then IAC Valve is not the problem
Could be vacuum leak or an EGR issue
The squealing is the fan belt, so may need a new one and maybe a new tensioner for the belt
The low RPM caused the squealing, so you need to find the cause of the low RPM
You need a Volt/OHM Meter, $10 volt/ohm meter will save you hundreds of dollars over the years
First, just to take it off the table, test battery voltage, key off, 12.3 to 12.8 volts is acceptable range for a car/truck battery, 12.2v or lower means there is a battery or alternator problem
Test it, even if you got a new battery this morning, lol
Fuel injected engines all use an air valve to control idle RPMs
Ford calls theirs an IAC(idle air control) Valve
Your 2006 2.3l Ranger IAC Valve looks like this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/1113873-Idl...-/222610916191
It is located on the on the upper intake manifold next to the throttle plate/cable
It has 2 wires connected, unplug the 2 wires and use volt meter, set to 20vDC, to test if they show over 11volts with key on, engine off
Then test IAC Valve's pins with OHM meter set to lowest scale, 200OHMs, should show 9 to 10 ohms, then test either connector to metal case of the IAC Valve should be NC, no connection, or ohm meter value doesn't change, stays at 1
If everything tests OK then IAC Valve is not the problem
Could be vacuum leak or an EGR issue
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