spark plugs and wires
#1
#8
for wires i know up here at autozone, they sell the MSD ones for our truck for only 58$ thats prelenghtend so you wont have to cut and make ur own, im gona get those either way when i buy mine, plug wise i dont really care long as it aint ****, seen some bad plugs causin the motor to more then just ping caused it to bog out when ever u romped on it.... very bad! newo good luck lemme know how it goes im soon to change mine!
Jordan
Jordan
#13
Originally Posted by Jaguar7270
for wires i know up here at autozone, they sell the MSD ones for our truck for only 58$ thats prelenghtend so you wont have to cut and make ur own, im gona get those either way when i buy mine, plug wise i dont really care long as it aint ****, seen some bad plugs causin the motor to more then just ping caused it to bog out when ever u romped on it.... very bad! newo good luck lemme know how it goes im soon to change mine!
Jordan
Jordan
#14
DON'T USE BOSCH! I used to use Bosch in a few of my previous vehicles and let's just say there was a DEFINITE improvement after switching back to stock. Autolites are the exact same thing as Motorcraft. Motorcraft is simply AutoLite plugs with a different name, part number and price tag. For the 3.0L many people recommend the AutoLite 764's, as they're 2 steps colder than stock, providing protection against the dreaded pinging commonly associated with 3.0L Rangers. I have AutoLite 764's right now and I don't have anything bad to say about them.
For the wires, many have used MSD, Accel, and JBA and had good results with each. You can't beat stock Motorcraft, though, if you're just looking for a tune-up and not looking to really "mod" anything.
The stock Ranger EDIS (distributorless) ignition system is designed very well (as mentioned above) and doesn't really need much (if any) modification. Of course, an MSD DIS-4 ignition box couldn't hurt if you're boosted or spraying. 3.0L's with distributors can benefit from an Accel cap and wires (there's more info about this elsewhere, as I own an EDIS 3.0L and don't know much about modding the other).
Good choice on the SE-R, BTW! I used to own a B13 SE-R w/ the N/A SR20 motor in it, and damn what a blast that thing was to drive! I wanted to boost it but I ditched the car because it was unregisterable (sp?)
For the wires, many have used MSD, Accel, and JBA and had good results with each. You can't beat stock Motorcraft, though, if you're just looking for a tune-up and not looking to really "mod" anything.
The stock Ranger EDIS (distributorless) ignition system is designed very well (as mentioned above) and doesn't really need much (if any) modification. Of course, an MSD DIS-4 ignition box couldn't hurt if you're boosted or spraying. 3.0L's with distributors can benefit from an Accel cap and wires (there's more info about this elsewhere, as I own an EDIS 3.0L and don't know much about modding the other).
Good choice on the SE-R, BTW! I used to own a B13 SE-R w/ the N/A SR20 motor in it, and damn what a blast that thing was to drive! I wanted to boost it but I ditched the car because it was unregisterable (sp?)
Last edited by c00lkatz; 08-29-2005 at 12:43 PM.
#15
#16
I justed changed one of my 3.0's with 108,000 miles on it. The gap was punched out (eaten up) to probably .07 or larger on the original plugs. I am gonna put a feeler guage on and get the exact gap that it had. They were plain wore out! I bet my mileage jumps on this truck! I have another with 80,000 and another with 60,000 miles. I will change these out within the week. I should be able to give a good estimate on how long these oem plugs actually last.
#18
#19
My underhood tag listed my specs as .042-.046, so I gapped mine to .044. The stock plugs were gapped out to between .049 and .063! All this at only 57000 miles.
I did new wires at the same time, I bought Motorcraft wires, and although close, the wire lengths were not identical. The worst was I think the #1 cylinder (front cylinder, passenger side?) where the wire was a good 10" longer than stock, so I had to modify the routing through the looms a bit to tidy it up.
I did new wires at the same time, I bought Motorcraft wires, and although close, the wire lengths were not identical. The worst was I think the #1 cylinder (front cylinder, passenger side?) where the wire was a good 10" longer than stock, so I had to modify the routing through the looms a bit to tidy it up.
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