I have been tracking an intermittent sqeaky noise for some time now on my 04 3.0 Edge w 130K on it. First checked obvious belt and pulleys but I have now pinned it down to the cam synchronizer. Put the stethoscope on top of the synchronizer and the sqeaking was the loudest.
How urgent is the repair and what does this thing actually do?
Will lubrication of some sorts help?

 

The bushing inside are worn out and squeaking, and no way to lube them

Common occurrence on the 1995 and up 3.0l engines, usually they last 80-100k miles.

If it is the bushings(synchronizer) and not the sensor rubbing, then I would not let it go on longer than 6 months.
It is unlikely but the shaft could break, and that shaft drives the OIL PUMP, and if it quits at any speed at all the engine bearings would FRY before you could stop.

Sooner the better in other words

 

ok thank you. I will add to my repair list. Got timing cover leak to do and now this one also. I think there is some good advice here on RF how to do it.

 

Yes, if you do some markings and take some pictures it can make it much easier to do

The sensor screws on to the top of the synchronizer, its position, i.e. o'clock position needs to be duplicated on new synchronizer
So if engine bay is 12:00 at the back and 6:00 at the front, and the two screw holes line up at 1:00 and 7:00 or 10:00 and 4:00
That needs to be duplicated with new synchro

Then you have the rotor inside the synchro, what the sensor "reads" as it spins.
This also has to be duplicated, but............you can move it to put it at 12:00 or 6:00 or 3:00 if you want
Just turn the engine over manually until rotor is point where you want.
OR you can just snap a picture and put a mark on an external point of where the rotor is now.

Once these TWO things have been documented you can remove the bolt holding the synchronizer at the base and pull it up.
The cam gear and synchro gear are angled, so rotor does turn as you lift it up, remember where is ends up so you can duplicate it on the new synchro because it will turn as new one goes back in.
You can mark it with tape or ?? to duplicate it on the new one.

Place the new one in the hole lining up the rotor and screw holes, and lower it down.
It may not go down all the way, the lower end has to engage the oil pump shaft, hex shaft
If it doesn't slide down you can mark the Crank pulley, use the pointer, rotate the engine one way a few degrees then the other way a few degrees and synchro should drop down when oil pump drive lines up.
Then rotate crank back to the mark you made

Now check the rotor alignment and the screw alignment.
If rotor is off lift synchro out turn rotor and lower it back down.
Once it is aligned put in bolt and tighten it down

 

got a new synchronizer today, Motorcraft brand, and checking it out found it has some play in the shaft out of the box. I get that it needs to have some but why start with sloppy fitment. Anyone else had a bad unit out of the box?

 

I did mine about 4 months ago. Sensor had been upgraded and I had to add a new connector to mine. It did fix the squeaking problem. My shop said it was the flywheel but thanks to forum advice I went with the cam synchronizer.

 

Thanks so much! I’ve been chasing this noise for a few months now, tried the usual squeak fixes (belt, pulley) and was getting concerned about further damage to engine.

FINALLY found a mechanic near me who knows and loves old rangers who identified the squeak as soon as he heard it.

Thanks for confirming we’re finally on the right track.